Seeing the sunrise from the viewpoint at the border at 1628 m, with its 360 degree vista and its commanding view of Laos (and seasonal sea of clouds) is worth the effort of getting there. There are many threads about Phu Chi Fah but let me add some information about the last couple of kilometers. There are multiple spellings, but since the the GT Rider Golden Triangle Loop Map spells it “Phu Chi Fah,” that must be correct and I’ll use that spelling too.
Bikers have two routes by which to see the sunrise.
The main route:
Stay in Phu Chi Fah village; for example, at the Phu Chi Fah New resort, 19.845892,100.443505 at 1274 m elevation. Then (1) book an inexpensive 05:30 songthaew to Phu Chi Fah Base parking lot (19.85072,100.44787 at 1428 m), as nearly all tourists do; or (2) ride the motorcycle 2.2 km to this parking lot at 05:30, average 7% grade, as many bikers do; or (3) walk the 2.2 km to the parking lot with a torch (plus a spare torch), starting at 05:00. From this parking lot you must walk the 1.3 km trail, average 15% grade, to the viewpoint, 19.85027,100.45407 at 1628 m elevation. You will have plenty of company. And there are souvenir shops and snacks available in the parking lot.
The back route:
For the back route you can stay at the Manfa Hill resort, 19.86188,100.45066 at 1,296 m or at several others next to it. Then (1) ride the 1.3 km to the north parking lot, 19.85306,100.45232 at 1499 m, average 16% grade with sharp curves at a 20%-25% grade; or (2) walk this extremely steep road to the parking lot with a torch (plus a spare torch), starting at 05:00. From this parking lot you must hike the 450 m trail, average 30% grade, to the viewpoint—half as far but twice as steep. You will probably be alone. If you plan to ride to this parking lot for the sunrise, I would suggest first riding it up during the previous day, perhaps for the sunset, to check the current condition of the road. There were some rough spots when I walked it, but no potholes.
I stayed at the Manfa Hill resort, Motorcycle parking is sheltered, flat concrete:
I took the back route and walked the whole way, with a headlamp and a torch. I like riding, but I also like walking and I needed the exercise. I didn’t see anyone the entire way from resort to the viewpoint, and the parking lot was empty. So I was astonished to find dozens of people already standing at the viewpoint, in total darkness at 05:45, carrying torches and wearing headlamps.
By the time I left, there were over a hundred people there. Everyone else took the western trail from Phu Chi Fah Base.
Evaporation begins as soon as the sun comes up--this was the moment of sunrise, and the best time to get a shot. This is a wide-angle panoramic photo. A wonderful view in the fresh air.
Looking west at the main route that everyone took, except me:
The back route trail is rough, with mud and slippery rocks, tree roots, and overgrown grass. The back route is a hike, not a walk, and despite daylight it is tougher coming down. When you slip on a 30% grade going up, you reach forward land gently on your hands. When you slip on a 30% grade coming down, you tend to land on your butt. I slipped and bruised myself twice coming down, my feet were soaking wet from the dew on the grass, and my legs ached for days. It was great!
A typical curve in the 1.3 km road from the resorts to the parking lot--the camera is exactly level:
You do not want to walk up if you have angina or walk down if you have arthritis .... Breakfast was ready minutes after I got back.
The proprietor of the Manfa Hill was a gem. The rate included breakfast but she didn’t charge for two simple dinners either. “Why not,” I asked? “Because I want you to enjoy your stay,” she said. I would stay there again next time but ride the bike to the Phu Chi Fah base and give the main route a try.
Bikers have two routes by which to see the sunrise.
The main route:
Stay in Phu Chi Fah village; for example, at the Phu Chi Fah New resort, 19.845892,100.443505 at 1274 m elevation. Then (1) book an inexpensive 05:30 songthaew to Phu Chi Fah Base parking lot (19.85072,100.44787 at 1428 m), as nearly all tourists do; or (2) ride the motorcycle 2.2 km to this parking lot at 05:30, average 7% grade, as many bikers do; or (3) walk the 2.2 km to the parking lot with a torch (plus a spare torch), starting at 05:00. From this parking lot you must walk the 1.3 km trail, average 15% grade, to the viewpoint, 19.85027,100.45407 at 1628 m elevation. You will have plenty of company. And there are souvenir shops and snacks available in the parking lot.
The back route:
For the back route you can stay at the Manfa Hill resort, 19.86188,100.45066 at 1,296 m or at several others next to it. Then (1) ride the 1.3 km to the north parking lot, 19.85306,100.45232 at 1499 m, average 16% grade with sharp curves at a 20%-25% grade; or (2) walk this extremely steep road to the parking lot with a torch (plus a spare torch), starting at 05:00. From this parking lot you must hike the 450 m trail, average 30% grade, to the viewpoint—half as far but twice as steep. You will probably be alone. If you plan to ride to this parking lot for the sunrise, I would suggest first riding it up during the previous day, perhaps for the sunset, to check the current condition of the road. There were some rough spots when I walked it, but no potholes.
I stayed at the Manfa Hill resort, Motorcycle parking is sheltered, flat concrete:
I took the back route and walked the whole way, with a headlamp and a torch. I like riding, but I also like walking and I needed the exercise. I didn’t see anyone the entire way from resort to the viewpoint, and the parking lot was empty. So I was astonished to find dozens of people already standing at the viewpoint, in total darkness at 05:45, carrying torches and wearing headlamps.
By the time I left, there were over a hundred people there. Everyone else took the western trail from Phu Chi Fah Base.
Evaporation begins as soon as the sun comes up--this was the moment of sunrise, and the best time to get a shot. This is a wide-angle panoramic photo. A wonderful view in the fresh air.
Looking west at the main route that everyone took, except me:
The back route trail is rough, with mud and slippery rocks, tree roots, and overgrown grass. The back route is a hike, not a walk, and despite daylight it is tougher coming down. When you slip on a 30% grade going up, you reach forward land gently on your hands. When you slip on a 30% grade coming down, you tend to land on your butt. I slipped and bruised myself twice coming down, my feet were soaking wet from the dew on the grass, and my legs ached for days. It was great!
A typical curve in the 1.3 km road from the resorts to the parking lot--the camera is exactly level:
You do not want to walk up if you have angina or walk down if you have arthritis .... Breakfast was ready minutes after I got back.
The proprietor of the Manfa Hill was a gem. The rate included breakfast but she didn’t charge for two simple dinners either. “Why not,” I asked? “Because I want you to enjoy your stay,” she said. I would stay there again next time but ride the bike to the Phu Chi Fah base and give the main route a try.
