Marco wrote: Feejer
here is confirmation that my Slave cylinder is caput(finito) as there should not be any oik inside here.
Oh yes. That is trouble. Luckily mine did not go bad before I got the weep hole drilled. Did your plates get contaminated with hydraulic fluid? No matter anyway, as you are going the whole way with the clutch replacement.
Might be too late if you already assembled, but one thing I remembered is that a good idea to put some ultra-low friction/high temp/waterproof Krytox grease (if you can find it) in the divot for the actuator rod. If not, then the Honda Moly60 grease is darn good too. Lowers the chance that the rod digs in and spins the piston on the seal. Just a theory, but I think that's why these slave units fail prematurely.
After my rear drive failed, the service manager told me to run nothing but the Redline Shockproof "Heavy" in that thing.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/11.pdf
The stuff is like liquid grease, but it cooled that drive down massively. Before I couldnt even put my finger on the drive after a long highway run. After the shockproof went in, I could put my hand on it no problem. I have run it in my FJR since new and the drive has always run cool. Try it out if you can find there, guaranteed to extend the life of your drive and perhaps avoid bearing failure.