Chiang Mai –Thoed Thai
November 7,2007
Route: 107-1089-3051
David Unkovich, Honda Africa Twin 750
David Early, Suzuki DR650
Photos by:GT_Rider / Silver Hawk
Khun Sa died in Burma on 26 October 2007. If you don’t know who Khun Sa is, then you are missing out on many of the legends and mystique of traveling the Golden Triangle. To many he was known as a freedom fighter trying to establish a home state for the Shan, fighting for freedom from the Burmese. For others he was called the Prince of Death or the Prince of Darkness. A ruthless war lord who controlled the opium production in Northern Thailand and the Shan and Wa area’s of Burma. He had a standing army of 20,000 men and a one million dollar price on his head from the U.S. Government/D.E.A. An internet search will bring up many fascinating stories.
He was cremated in Rangoon but the Thai village of Thoed Thai scheduled a memorial service for him on Nov 8 and 9. Thoed Thai was one of his former strongholds and his residence for many years.
Kung Sa country
Davidfl and I had a leisurely ride up Rte 107 to Thatong and then cut over to Doi Mae Salong. Thoed Thai is about a 40 minute ride north towards the Burmese border.
We had made reservations at the Rimtaan guest house which was located on the river, in the center of town and great clean bungalows for 300baht. There are also some rooms with two double beds for 400baht.
We arrived on the evening of the 7th and went up to Kung Sa’s residence where they were making preparations for the following days. This also is the location of the Khun Sa Museum which is open to the public and contains a small amount of memorabilia. I am told that the Thai government would not allow anything more elaborate.
We were greeted by mostly smiling faces and for the rest of the weekend we were treated like VIP’s. As it turned out we were the only westerners present. We were told a couple others stopped by on the 8th but didn’t return.
Even an Elvis impersonator.
On the 8th the local residents came up in small numbers and everyone paid their respects. We had met a fine gentleman who was the principal of the Junior High School and one of the organizers. He made sure we well taken care of and comfortable. He insisted that we be the first to sign the provided guest books and write a message to Khun Sa. Anyone that knows my past profession must laugh at the irony that I am the first to sign Khun Sa’s memorial ledger.
The women made sure that we were well fed with food provided to all guests. If you know how any Thai festivity usually goes, we found it rather strange how this was kept as a very somber and respectful gathering and NO alcohol of any type was on the premises. The drink of choice was hot tea.
They were very well organized and even sold VCD’s of Khun Sa’s life and history and a slide presentation ran throughout the day. 100’s of photo were set up in the normally vacant museum areas.
Although we tried to look inconspicuous (as if we could) we had as many photographers taking photos of us as they did of the ceremony. Many people spoke at the ceremony and translations to Thai was provided by the school girls. One can only guess at the background of some of the guests. We were asked to deliver a eulogy in English but we both passed on that one!
Owner of Rimtaan GH, “Johnnie” speaks several languages.
It was also explained to us that being Buddhist, the people must remember the good someone had done. They explained that Khun Sa had built the first paved roads into the area. He built the first school and a new well equipped hospital. He built modern infrastructure to handle water supply and electricity. Thoed Thai would not exist as it does today without him. Freedom Fighter or Prince of Darkness? Definitely depends on how you look at it.
We awoke early each day in time to make the morning market which seemed to finish about 7:30AM. I have no idea what time they started. It was pretty chilly and the fog settled in overnight and just started to clear as the market was underway.
We found a lady that made great Lao style coffee which I love and we stopped there both mornings.
A young Tai Lai girl took an interest in me and was QUITE friendly. She followed me all around the market and said she had never seen a “farang” before (I’ve heard that one before). I had to tell her that there could not be a wedding until they got ADSL in her village.
Davidfl and I spent the rest of the day exploring the roads leading north to the Myranmar border. Mostly paved, and the sections that weren’t, were currently under construction. It was beautiful scenery without a cloud in the sky.
Possibly not the best choice of spelling.
It was also good to see Davidfl handling the AT on these roads again with out any trouble.
David is not shy about right out with the people and taking “in your face photos”, but he gets some great shots sometimes.
I give him full credit for this one.
But I get lucky sometimes.
Roadside pork sellers.
All in all, a very good road trip and whatever your feelings towards Khun Sa, it is a part history and we can say we were part of it. That’s my kind of road trip!
November 7,2007
Route: 107-1089-3051
David Unkovich, Honda Africa Twin 750
David Early, Suzuki DR650
Photos by:GT_Rider / Silver Hawk
Khun Sa died in Burma on 26 October 2007. If you don’t know who Khun Sa is, then you are missing out on many of the legends and mystique of traveling the Golden Triangle. To many he was known as a freedom fighter trying to establish a home state for the Shan, fighting for freedom from the Burmese. For others he was called the Prince of Death or the Prince of Darkness. A ruthless war lord who controlled the opium production in Northern Thailand and the Shan and Wa area’s of Burma. He had a standing army of 20,000 men and a one million dollar price on his head from the U.S. Government/D.E.A. An internet search will bring up many fascinating stories.
He was cremated in Rangoon but the Thai village of Thoed Thai scheduled a memorial service for him on Nov 8 and 9. Thoed Thai was one of his former strongholds and his residence for many years.
Kung Sa country
Davidfl and I had a leisurely ride up Rte 107 to Thatong and then cut over to Doi Mae Salong. Thoed Thai is about a 40 minute ride north towards the Burmese border.
We had made reservations at the Rimtaan guest house which was located on the river, in the center of town and great clean bungalows for 300baht. There are also some rooms with two double beds for 400baht.
We arrived on the evening of the 7th and went up to Kung Sa’s residence where they were making preparations for the following days. This also is the location of the Khun Sa Museum which is open to the public and contains a small amount of memorabilia. I am told that the Thai government would not allow anything more elaborate.
We were greeted by mostly smiling faces and for the rest of the weekend we were treated like VIP’s. As it turned out we were the only westerners present. We were told a couple others stopped by on the 8th but didn’t return.
Even an Elvis impersonator.
On the 8th the local residents came up in small numbers and everyone paid their respects. We had met a fine gentleman who was the principal of the Junior High School and one of the organizers. He made sure we well taken care of and comfortable. He insisted that we be the first to sign the provided guest books and write a message to Khun Sa. Anyone that knows my past profession must laugh at the irony that I am the first to sign Khun Sa’s memorial ledger.
The women made sure that we were well fed with food provided to all guests. If you know how any Thai festivity usually goes, we found it rather strange how this was kept as a very somber and respectful gathering and NO alcohol of any type was on the premises. The drink of choice was hot tea.
They were very well organized and even sold VCD’s of Khun Sa’s life and history and a slide presentation ran throughout the day. 100’s of photo were set up in the normally vacant museum areas.
Although we tried to look inconspicuous (as if we could) we had as many photographers taking photos of us as they did of the ceremony. Many people spoke at the ceremony and translations to Thai was provided by the school girls. One can only guess at the background of some of the guests. We were asked to deliver a eulogy in English but we both passed on that one!
Owner of Rimtaan GH, “Johnnie” speaks several languages.
It was also explained to us that being Buddhist, the people must remember the good someone had done. They explained that Khun Sa had built the first paved roads into the area. He built the first school and a new well equipped hospital. He built modern infrastructure to handle water supply and electricity. Thoed Thai would not exist as it does today without him. Freedom Fighter or Prince of Darkness? Definitely depends on how you look at it.
We awoke early each day in time to make the morning market which seemed to finish about 7:30AM. I have no idea what time they started. It was pretty chilly and the fog settled in overnight and just started to clear as the market was underway.
We found a lady that made great Lao style coffee which I love and we stopped there both mornings.
A young Tai Lai girl took an interest in me and was QUITE friendly. She followed me all around the market and said she had never seen a “farang” before (I’ve heard that one before). I had to tell her that there could not be a wedding until they got ADSL in her village.
Davidfl and I spent the rest of the day exploring the roads leading north to the Myranmar border. Mostly paved, and the sections that weren’t, were currently under construction. It was beautiful scenery without a cloud in the sky.
Possibly not the best choice of spelling.
It was also good to see Davidfl handling the AT on these roads again with out any trouble.
David is not shy about right out with the people and taking “in your face photos”, but he gets some great shots sometimes.
I give him full credit for this one.
But I get lucky sometimes.
Roadside pork sellers.
All in all, a very good road trip and whatever your feelings towards Khun Sa, it is a part history and we can say we were part of it. That’s my kind of road trip!
Edit:Spelling[/quote]
