Wat Ku Siao- Nan Attractions

DavidFL

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A quick blast to Nan for the night, before the Sonkran water throwing mayhem, to check up on a temple, plus on friends in Nan, Phrae, and Sa Iab along the way.

The way Chiang Khong - Nan
Chiang Khong - Chiang Kham
R1020 - R1021 - R1148
Chiang Kham - Pong
R1148 - R1179 - R1092 - R1091
Pong - Chiang Muan - Nan
R1091
Total distance = 264 km.

It was a lazy start to the day, getting away from Chiang Khong city at 1PM.
Boiling hot it was time to just wear my body armour and no jacket, but take a rain jacket just in case a few predicted short summer storms pass through.

The first stop was the PTT Chiang Kham, 2 km south of Chiang Kham, and time to put some rain gear on for a passing shower and ominous weather outlook.


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The passing shower lingered on all the way down R1179 to Pong city. I was less than impressed!!
Of note on R1179 is a massive solar power farm being built on the east side of R1179, ascending the long rolling hills, heading south from Chiang Kham city.
Check it out before it is completed, but it is absolutely massive and a serious work of construction.

R1179 is a fabulous ride through the rolling hills and can be used as a loop to or from Pong and return, or Nan from via 1148 and 1091.

(A Pong Loop - R1092.)

Fa Ngum, King of Laos, Statue
Stop #2 then was the hidden Fa Ngum, King of Laos, statue another 60 km down the road in Pong City.


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The story of Fa Ngum is an intriguing one. He was the first king of Laos, but in his later years he was exiled due to rampant philandering in the royal court. Sent to Nan in Thailand, he supposedly died in Pong, at the source of the Yom River, if you can believe the story.

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Fa Ngum is considered by Laotians as being the founder of Laos and the first person to recognise the word of Buddha for the whole country (the equivalent of our William the Conqueror) as well as the person who gave the country its historical borders, which are recognised even today by most Laotians. It all started at the beginning of the 14th century. At that time, a King (Chao Phi Fa) reigned in Luang Prabang (then called Xieng Dong-Xieng Tong) and its immediate area, just like many other small kings who were dispersed all over the area of what would soon become known as Laos. Like all the kings at that time, Chao Phi Fa had many women around him and a throng of children. He was the sole ruler over his realm.

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(Riding The Yom River & R1091)

Cafe Mello

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1.5 km down the road from the Fa Ngum state is the cute Cafe Mello in Pong City.
A GTR favourite en route to/from Nan, you can always get a nice cuppa and meal in the air conditioning for a most convenient break.


The staff are always friendly, speak some English, and are able to confirm the legendary beauty of the Lue women of Pong city.

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The resident house cat is also a beauty.
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The menu has some interesting dishes, delicious, fresh, and quickly served.

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To be continued onto Nan & that wat,
 
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Pong to Chiang Muan R1091 is arguably my favourite ride in North Thailand, an old, twisting, undulating asphalt road with lots of blind crests, decreasing radius corners, and bumps. A super ride for me in the dry, but not so much in the wet.

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There was lots of water around and evidence it had not been just a passing shower.

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Stopped at the PTT Amazon at Chiang Muan; the rain got heavier, and the passing shower was still lingering.

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That passing shower was still lingering around, specifically over R1091 Chiang Muan to Nan.

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Never mind, it will be moving on soon, I thought.

How wrong I was.

I departed Chiang Muan at 6pm.
Arrival time in Nan City was 7.45pm
None of the rain was heavy, just steady light-to-medium rain.
However, it was the first of the season, making for treacherous, greasy roads.
The low cloud coupled with the smoke created a surreal environment, changing from fog to smoke wafting through, with the tantalising smell of either smoke or petrichor adding to the thrill.
At times I could not see more than 10 metres ahead in the swirling fog and lights.
The new rubberized blacktop asphalt, when wet, reflects very little light, so my mighty 400W spotlights did not quite provide the blinding light I would get on dry roads, and I usually enjoy night riding.

The worst section was from Ban Luang - Nan, 47 km to my hotel.

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My GPS track for this section shows 1 hour 20 minutes for the 46 kms with an average speed of 34 kph.

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In this section I came across 3 oncoming pickups on a downhill descent that had run into each other end-to-end.
In the drizzle, fog, and smoke, it was often most difficult to see the road ahead, the road surface, the road direction, or the steepness.
In two steep downhill sections, I was in first gear and just skating down. Whatever, don't hit the brakes hard!
Daunting in the extreme it was.
With only body armour on underneath a rain jacket, I also started to get cold and shiver a few times.
Cold, drenched I made it straight to the first convenient restaurant in Nan city before checking into a hotel.

The Poom 3 Restaurant

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A popular, well-known restaurant in downtown central Nan, the Poom 3 is a winner with fast service, a relaxed, easygoing establishment, and damn good food from a respected cook. Plus, with pavement dining, it was a total winner for a damp, cold, old GTR fellah.
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An hour later I crashed out in my 500 baht room at the Grand Mansion.
I was well pleased with myself for surviving a ride through hell and a passing shower that lasted 6.45 hours!
Tomorrow is another day....
 
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Day 2: Wat Ku Sieo / Siao and the long way home.

The Way Home Nan - Chiang Khong

Nan - Wiang Sa
Wiang Sa - Phrae
Phrae - Song - Sa Iab
SaIab - Chiang Muan - Pong - Chiang Kham - Chiang Khong.

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Hot Bread & Breakfast.
A usual relaxed last start to the day with a breakfast rendezvous at the Hot Bread with Oddvar,
Oddvar and I chatted away merrily for over an hour. Odvar went off home, and I chatted away with Nan from Hot Bread for another extended period.
Her Mum had just passed away peacefully in Chiang Mai a week ago, but luckily, she was there with her Mum at the time.
For Hot Bread fans, they will close in June for a holiday overseas - Sichuan in China for 2 or 3 weeks.
The Hot Bread gals have extensive backpacking travel overseas in the many interesting, diverse countries. Ancient Middle East, Iraq, India, plus Cuba from memory. These gals know their culture and history!

At 12 midday it was time to move along.

Wat Ku Sieo / Siao - Wat Si Ku Siao Phra That Chao Chai Chana - Nan was the destination.

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Wat Ku Sieo is claimed to be an ancient temple that was abandoned for many years.

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A Tai Lue temple, the original villagers came from Sipsongpanna, to settle in multiple places in the North Nan, Phayao and Lamphun, in a migratory wave of Tai Lue peoples.

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It is thought the original wat was built about 154 years ago.

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Recent excavation of the once abandoned temple site by the Nan Fine Arts Department discovered old pottery.
A rebuild started in 2007, and the current abbot, Samut Chirapong Chayalangaro, seems very proactive in restoring the temple's importance and developing the site as a treasured cultural centre for Nan.

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The proximity of the Royal Palace of Princess Sirindhorn, next door, probably hints at significant support for the project.
Getting reliable, detailed information in English is a challenge.

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Once it is all finished, it will be a sensation and absolutely stunning.

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I wish I knew and could explain more, but the building is sensational and a total treasure trove of items.

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A serious ongoing work in progress, the museum items and Buddha image collection currently stored in the main building are mind-boggling.

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Once it is all finished, it will be a sensation and absolutely stunning.

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Check it all out while you can before the crowds turn up.
 
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The Way Home Nan - Chiang Khong
Nan - Wiang Sa
Wiang Sa - Phrae
Phrae - Song - Sa Iab
SaIab - Chiang Muan - Pong - Chiang Kham - Chiang Khong.
Total distance: 422 kms

The ride home from Nan - a bit of a hurry, but no problem, I thought. Riding in the cool night air with bright spotlights is something I enjoy.
It was a 1pm get away from Wat Ku Sieo.
Next stop after the temple was the Chang Nan Coffee and Art Gallery in Wiang Sa.
This coffee shop is a beauty in an old wooden house.
The owner and staff are wonderful people who know their coffee, hospitality, and service.

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The wife is from Luang Prabang and is the main pastry cook.
Her lemon croissants are sensational and well worthy of a double dip anytime!

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In Nan, Hot Bread claims their biz has dropped off, but the Chang Nan Art Gallery says their business is steadily increasing, and they are considering having a breakfast/brunch menu next.

(Wiang Sa Restaurants)


An hour later, at 2.30pm, it was back on the road R101 for Phrae.

R101 Wiang Sa - Phrae is another superb biking road, undulating and winding, with magnificent flowing corners.
I enjoyed the road so much that I fantasised that wouldn't it be great to have an annual Wiang Sa - Rong Khwang TT road race.
Close off the 4-lane dual carriageway on one side to have a 62 kms morning race from Wiang Sa to Rong Khwang city.
Then in the afternoon, close off the other side and have a part 2 race back to Wiang Sa.

At 3.38pm, another hour after leaving the Chang Nan Coffee and Art Gallery it was time for a quick chat at the Gingerbread

I had two stops to make in Phrae (1) Gingerbread for a cuppa, and (2) CIDNI for an end-of-the-day brunch of Eggs Benedict.
Both establishments are superb, and I was keen to see how they both were doing after the floods last year.
Both places got flooded out, with CIDNI suffering much more damage and needing a complete renovation.

30 minutes in Gingerbread for a quick cuppa, then 350 metres around the corners to CIDNI for nice Eggs Benedict noche up before 5 pm closing.
The CIDNI is a fabulous little classy cafe and restaurant in Phrae, and a bit ahead of its time, perhaps.
But it's an absolute charmer of a cafe with style.
The son of the owner is the chef and speaks perfect English, having studied in Sydney, Australia, for several years.
BUT sadly, as I found out, the kitchen closes at 4pm, and at 4.20pm you are absolutely too late for any food orders!

Never mind, I was going home via R1120 Sa Iab, and Sakthong.
After the two GTR dinners we had at the Sakthong, the restaurant and Khun Sai, the owner, have become GTR favourites.

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(GT Rider Up Country Dinner # 25 - Sa Iab (the Sakthong)) and (GT Rider Up Country Dinner # 38 Sa Iab - Sakthong)

When I had my last big bike accident in 2022,
(Ooops done it again. A David Unk crash.)
Khun Sai was one of the very first people to ring me and enquire about my condition.

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She is an absolute honey of a woman, single and the owner of the biggest local hooch distillery and distributor in North Thailand with her Sakthong brand.

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As is my usual coming from the south, I stopped in at the Sakthong liquor distillery first to check on Sai & say hello.
At 5.30pm she was just closing up the office.
I invited her to join me at the Sakthong for a drink and/or a meal.
Oh I'm not sure they will be open. They close at 6pm.
It was 5.30pm?
Sai rang ahead, ok yes they are open for you.
I raced up the road 150 metres, and the door was closed already.
Just my luck again, I thought. Oh well, there's always 7-11 just up the road in Chiang Muan. 55
And then the staff inside opened up the restaurant to switch the aircon back on again.
A lovely salmon steak followed next, and I would be ready to ride the last 220 kms home.


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Khun Sai joined me for a natter, and I was a super happy man.

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Of note now is that in addition to her Mountain Lodge, she has opened a small bar nearby the hotel for her son.
He has just returned from America and wanted to go back, but Mum said, Here is a bar for you to manage and look after now!

 
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SaIab - Chiang Muan - Chiang Khong.
Departure from Sa Iab was 6.30pm and I was looking forward to a nice cool night ride.
In the falling light, lightning lit up the sky to the west and Phayao.
It looked spectacular, but the further north I went, the closer it came.
Stopped at Chiang Kham at the Phu Sang PTT / 7-11 it started to rain. Damn.

7-11, GTR sustenance for a night ride.
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Just my luck again, wet in Chiang Kham, for the rain had started in Chiang Kham on my outward journey.

The curse of Chiang Kham — rain!
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The young Thai guy on the Kawasaki was drenched when he pulled into the PTT.
He was highly impressed with the yellow V-Strom but wasn't impressed when I declined permission to sit on the bike in the wet.
Oh well, it is what it is, but sorry, not now!

After a 30-minute break at 7-Eleven saw no letup in the rain, it was time to head home in the wet.
It rained for the next 50 km and then dried out.
Of note on R1020, when riding in the wet be careful of standing water on the low side of the cambers in the dual carriageway. The drains get blocked, and the water cannot flow out so quickly. This can be particularly disconcerting in right-handers.

Arrival time in Chiang Khong was 10.15pm.
It was a joy to take off my rain gear and have a quick Red at Chiang Roy before bed.

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A great little overnight trip of 686 km with variable, demanding weather changes, plus another "attraction box" ticked, and some good friends are still out there doing their thing and enjoying life. Long may it all continue.

Chiang Khong - Chiang Muan - Nan.
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Nan - Phrae - Chiang Khong.
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