The Guv'nor has asked me to update my adventures having abandoned him in the clutches of the HGLGF and a wet and wild storm!
Then the rains came!
I left Luang Prabang early and was soon riding in the clouds, with a thick fog that enveloped the mountains above the city.
The visibility was down to 2 metres at times, bringing my speed down to a walking pace.
The road wound its tortuous way with hair pin bends and edge-of-the-road drop-offs of hundreds of metres.
On-coming trucks were driving only with sidelights on making their appearance an immediate and menacing experience on a road, barely a car's width wide.
Riding through the mountain hamlets, ghostly figures would appear with alarming immediacy.
Behind me, I had gathered a fleet of NGO 4x4s who were using me as their pointman!
Finally the clouds lifted mid-morning to reveal stupendous views.
This road is considered by the biking cognoscenti to be one of the best riding roads in the world with views -and in poor weather - drop-offs to die for!
The traffic at least was visible.
Cresting the mountain range is one of the most beautiful vistas I have come across of the
mountain Phou Bia which looks as though it comes from the pages of JRR Tolkein.
Here's an image from a previous trip with better visibility
Further along were a pair of conical karsks that my son christened "Madonna's Cones"!
The road to Vang Vieng was great.
The sun had burned off most of the heavy cloud and it was a clear run in past these magnificent karsk formations to the hippy resort town.
There's a temple with a wonderful menacing figure.
Scary if you have had one of the "happy shakes".
Sadly I had to make Vientiane by nightfall so after a quick bite to eat and refuelling I made the last 150kms before dusk.
Vang Vieng
Vientiane - capital of the communist PDR Laos.
Awoke to more rain - the cold weather front from China has blanketed northern Thailand, Laos & Vietnam with monsoon rains.
Not great as I hope to make the Cambodian border tomorrow a 800+kms run south east. Then hope to make Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia, the next day.
First off a check on the bike and chain lube - these guys are old friends but only used to working on XR250s!!!
The bike is running great after considerable teething problems.
Getting to know, appreciate and love the old gal.
A quick round of sightseeing showing of a lump of British iron!
Vertical Runway - also known more formerly as the Victory Monument,
this concrete monstrosity was made from concrete donated by Uncle Sam to extend the airport's runway;
but the apathetic Laos government thought that by declaring victory & building a monument to this pipedream
victory would surely follow.
Well, you all know how the story ended, sadly.
Triumph @ communist leader's museum. Mercifully closed.
A Laos family wanted to have their photo taken with the Scrambler at the Laos national Wat.
Packing now for the 2000 kms haul down to Cambodian coast.
Just had a call from the lowlife who took my wallet - would I like to buy the cards back??
Ommmmmmmmmm!
Back to the trip...
I had hoped to catch up with David who I had ridden into Laos with.
He had stayed a few days longer in Luang Prabang with his noted Blues singer girlfriend, Meow.
But he was having electrical problems with his Africa Twin and had broken down twice before hiring a pickup to bring him and his 14 year-old beast down to Vientiane.
So I set off just after dawn leaving Vientiane before the morning’s traffic got underway Having has a brief & most useful coffee with Alaska Joe.
It was his ability to ride from Phnom Penh to Vientiane in two days on a 200cc Yamaha, that made my mind up to go for it.
The last few days had seen periods of torrential rains and it wasn’t long before it started spitting and then raining properly.
Traffic was light and I was able to make good progress in spite of the rain.
Heading south-east the road only connected with the Mekong a few times. At Thakek, almost half-way,
I pulled into the sleepy riverside town for coffee and toast.
Filling up at the local Caltex the bike ran poorly until the next refill a hundred miles or so further south.
Jimoi had warned me of adulterated fuel, even from ‘reputable’ filling stations.
If you ever into adventurous dirt riding you can contact him through
http://www.remoteasia.com
He was about to set that very same morning with RobertH & Alaska Joe on a grueling recce run off-road in this foul weather.
Rather them than me I said barreling down 13 with limited viz again!
Riding Route 13 south on the good Chinese road, apart from boredom there were the natural hazards of chickens, goats dogs, hogs & kids.
But it was the cows and water buffalo, whose tendency to bolt across the road meant a cautious use of the throttle.
The burning season has begun and the air was filled with smoke, getting into my nostrils making me sneeze violently in the helmet and adding further visual impediment to my already bug-splattered helmet.
It was late afternoon when reached I Pakse, the southernmost town in Laos, just in time to watch the sun slip slowly down behind the Mekong and Thailand.
Again another early start as I had wanted to make Phnom Penh before dark.
I was on the road to make the 150kms to the border before dawn, so when the sun rose it bathed the paddy fields in a golden light .
Glorious
Past the 4000 islands above the waterfalls –
when I last stayed here I had to cross on a pontoon boat made from canoes.
An interesting experience
The Phapheng Waterfalls – its name meaning the ‘Noise of the Mekong’ and reputedly at 14 kms, the widest in the world.
Crossing the border in the past, the road was an abysmal potholed bone-jarring jungle track.
You can see from my trip with my son on the GS here @ YouTube.
This time Laos customs just waved me through and I found what I believed was a newly graded jungle track.
In fact what I was looking for was this red road highway with burning brush and earth obstacles.
No matter I was soon through both Laos &Cambodian immigration.
Cambo customs hadn’t woken up yet and I was told to complete the paperwork for the bike in Stung Treng 50+ clicks further south.
When I had last ridden this road in the rainy season the dirt road was a muddy quagmire in parts, now it is smooth grippy Chinese asphalt.
The burning continues.
At Stung Treng the brokenroad down a causeway to board the ‘conventional’ ferry proved some of the most challenging riding to date.
When I last crossed here they loaded my GS onto the prow of the boat, for a 15 minute heart-stopping trip across this large tributary river of the Mekong.
The newly built Chinese bridge was a tantalising but useless sight.
For the populace continued to use the ferry.
Stung Treng is the main clearinghouse for drugs in South East Asia so it was ironic to be greeted by this billboard warning of trafficking.
I wanted to be legit so headed off to the customs office, but was abruptly to be on my way they weren’t interested in paperwork!
I still had 500+ kms before Phnom Penh and it was late morning so I gassed up on some urine coloured fuel and headed out on a dirt road.
This soon turned to tar and for a while I was the only vehicle heading on the South East loop by the Vietnamese border under a burning sun – the gauge read 42 degrees celcius- with a blue sky and white puffies.
My serene riding sojourn came to an abrupt halt when I realised that Cambodians have scant regard to traffic norms or regs.
Oncoming cars would cut the corner even though there was no other traffic – except me –
and bikes barely register in car/truck/bus/coach drivers’ consciousness, as a hazard.
I was forced onto the roadside dirt more than a few times.
Initially I would beep and aim a kick at their side-door until I realised such actions were futile and concentration was better spent on avoidance.
As I neared Phnom Penh I met the outbound weekend commuters.
Bluntly put, this was terrifying, as I would meet two oncoming trucks racing each other vying for the slim space on a single lane carriage way.
This included pigs going to market.
When I reached Phnom Penh I was pretty spent, having been in the saddle for nearly twelve hours.
In Phnom Penh the traffic is pretty much fast & furious with the only rule being enforced is the use of headlights by bikes and other vehicles being
verboten.
Unless you are a person of note.
The one frequent sight in Cambodia, is the number of luxury SUVs baring the number plates of the RCAF [Royal Cambodian Armed Forces].
Either the army is the most comfortably transported army in the world, or, there is a scam going down… This is not a multiple choice question!
PP Trafic is best seen here in this YouTube vid for the experience.
I had enough trouble staying alive to take more pix.
Whilst in Phnom Penh I had the rear rack reinforced by Bernard @ the Bike Shop.
A decent dirt riding Frenchman who ensures that customers’s bikes are professionally worked on – not a common practice.
Also, had an oil & filter change – using one for a car.
At the Palace - note the gaffer taped out headlight
Jessie flew in from Bangkok for 2 days R'n'R and bravely learned to ride the Scrambler sidesaddle
whilst giving encroaching
motordop [scooter taxis] the death stare.
Great & plucky Gal!
Phnom Penh sits beside the Tonlesap River.
The Tonlesap river flows past the city’s front meeting up with the Mekong.
The Tonlesap is one of the world’s few rivers that reverses its flow in the rainy season.
The point where the two rivers meet.
The ‘mountainous’ Wat Phnom after which the city gets its name