The Balkans, late 2015 on my old XT600E (Arrunya)

[Wayne66]

There are some nice old buildings and War Memorials dotted about and I didn’t take me long to find some scars from the most recent War. It is nice to see the place in peace again, very different to the last time I was here and saw first hand what troubles can bring.

Old Buildings

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I looked through the windows, it looked like someones tomb

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[Wayne66]

War Memorials

I think this is for the Patriotic People of Bihać

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For the Canadians which helped them in the recent war

 

[Wayne66]

I also met a French couple who are cycling from Bulgaria back to their home in France, I felt bit sorry for them with the recent weather we have been having and they have been wild camping. They are going home via the Alps

Scars of the recent troubles

The rest of the day I am going to relax and plan my zig zag route through Bosnia

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 10 Balkans Trip

Yesterday I worked out my zig zag trip across Bosnia. Had a good rest day but its time to move on.
The journey today was from Bihać to Glamoć and I got a nice early start.

Day 10 Bihać to Glamoć

I was awake at 0530hrs thanks to the person in the next room snoring their heads off. Not good been awake at that time. Laid there for a bit to try and get back to sleep but it wasn’t happening. So it was a case of pack kit, shower, breakfast and set off. I was on the road for 0800hrs.

The route was a mixture of road and unpaved road so it made for an interesting ride.
Along the way I passed lots of war ravaged abandoned villages in a very sparse wilderness. There was nothing for miles except mountains all around, wind, dark clouds, barearse wilderness and the road. This was dotted along the way by the abandoned villages.

War Memorial on the way into Glamoć

 

[Wayne66]

I eventually got to Glamoć which was still as unpopulated as I remember it from all those years ago. I found a cafe/bar and went in for a warm (nice open fire) and a coffee. When I walked in everyone went quite and it reminded me of the scene from the American Werewolf where the young lad walking in to the tavern/pub and they all look at him and someone says ‘stay off the moors’. Normal noise had resumed by the time I had ordered my coffee.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glamoč

 

[Wayne66]

Then I went to visit the dilapidated old castle on a hill overlook Glamoć. It was falling apart but good to see some history.

Nice view from the top

 

[Wayne66]

Once I left there I decide to look for somewhere to sleep for the night so I set the Montana for Sipovo and looked for somewhere on route. On the way out I stopped at what I think was an old runway N44.08514° E16.81298° and at one end there was some area which could have housed the planes. I rode for about 5 miles before I found a spot. Wild camping was on the cards for tonight.

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 11 Balkans Trip

Woke up at about 0645hrs this morning, it was a bit nippy but not too bad.
Up, pack Tent, have breakfast and ride Sipovo, Jajce and hopefully to Mkonjic Grad.

Day 11 Glamoć to Jajce

 

[Wayne66]

It is a bit surreal passing from one area to the other because although it is technically the same country there are two defined regions, The Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Repuplica Srpska and each bit lets you know when you are leaving/entering their bit of territory.

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First off Sipovo, no real reason for going, it was just a town on route and one which was covered by us in ’93’ Very quiet again, but lots of cafe/bars dotted about.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Šipovo

 

[Wayne66]

Then it was the journey to Jajce which is a town I wanted to visit because of the Waterfalls which are in the town.
They were nice. There is also a Castle of which the town centre is situated around the walls

Jajce - Wikipedia

Lake just before Jajce

I was also going to Piva Falls which are about 2 mile out of town but every road I took to get there was blocked because they are laying massive pipes under the road. Never mind, it would have been nice

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

I went on towards Mrkonjic Grad as i was there in ’97’. i had a ride around the town to see if I could find the Shoe Factory but I couldn’t as it has all changed in the last 18 years. So I went in to the centre and had another Kava before setting the Montana towards Banja Luka and looking for somewhere sleep on the route there. I found myself a nice spot just off the main road in a field in a dip so I was out of view of all traffic.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mrkonjić_Grad

Mrkonjic Grad

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On route to my camp spot

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[Wayne66]

Day 12 Balkans Trip

Right! Today nothing turned out as planned. Gotta take the rough with the smooth!

My route today was a lot longer than planned!

Day 12 Banja Luka to Sarajevo

After a good breakfast

First off was Banja Luka which was only about 30 mins down the road, It is quite a big place. so I had a little ride round and stopped for a coffee. I then wanted to go see the Castle in the town. Spoiler 1, They were renovating it so I could only get to see the outside, after being told you could ride right inside as there was a cafe in the middle of it. So after taking a few snaps it was time to go to Doboj which was just a stop on route before heading to Tesanj Castle.

Banja Luka - Wikipedia

 

[Wayne66]

Tesanj Castle Spoiler 2, when I got there they were doing road works on the road leading up to the Castle so the only place I could park was a carpark in the middle of the town, it would mean leaving all my kit unattended for a long time. so that didn’t happen

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tešanj_Castle

 

[Wayne66]

Then it was back on the road towards Maglai Castle. I got to the town and found the Castle and I managed to nearly get up to it before I came across some more digging in the road. Spoiler 3! I had to turn round on a really step incline which is not fun with a fully loaded bike as you know, so that was the end of that.
Whilst in the town I decided to grab a Kava and use Airbnb and get myself a room for 3 nights in Sarajevo. My only bit of success of the day. £45 for 3 nights, not too bad, with a garage and wifi.

Maglai Castle

 

[Wayne66]

So I set the Montana towards Sarajevo with a view to looking for somewhere to camp on the way there (about half way). Anyway that didn’t happen as I could not find anywhere suitable due to following the River very closely. On the way there I passed yet another Castle in Vranduk. I spent an hour riding in the dark before I came across were I am now.
Hotel Sunce N43.90210 E18.33759 on the very outskirts of Sarajevo.

Vranduk Castle

Some Views from today

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 13 Balkans Trip

Set off from the Hotel and headed deeper into Sarajevo. It was only about 10 mile to where I was going to be staying. So I had a bit of time to get lost in the city and also to look for the Yamaha Dealer to see if they can sort out my back brake.

Sarajevo - Wikipedia

The place I have booked through AirBnB is nice and I have a great view from the Balcony. I have a complete apartment to myself. 2 bedrooms, kitchen, living room, shower, wifi and best of all a garage for Arrunya. I am sure she blew a sigh of relief when I took all the gear off


Not bad at all for 45 quid

Washing is in so its time to relax.

The View from the Balcony

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 14 Balkans Trip

Went to get Arrunya fixed today. The shop was closed when I got there at 0930hrs even it was supposed to be open at 0900hrs. So I hung around and 10 mins later someone turned up. They do not have a mechanic on the premise but I followed them to the authorised Yamaha Mechanic they use it was a 10 minute ride away. The caliper was starting to seize so they stripped it all down, cleaned it, greased it, put it back together and bled my rear and front brakes with new fluid, Dot 5.1, they dealt with me straight away and spent about 1.5 hours working on her and all for £29.40 (once I had done the conversion from KM to £). Brakes are now spot on. Well happy.
The Yamaha Dealer Sarajevo N43.84128 E18.32553
The Mechanic N43.83707 E18.33490 (not the Jason Statham film)

 

[Wayne66]

Once that was sorted it was a quick stop at McDonalds for a burger and a Kava Frappe, then a sit out in the sun to enjoy it.

Then I went it to the city on the bike to have a good ride around. Traffic was busy but I was not in any rush.

Spot the flag

Lots of these about and the majority have dates from the early 90's

Still lots of this about too

Sat enjoying a Kava

When I was parked up 3 French bikers came passed, they paused for a quick photo and as they shot off one of them was nearly under a car turning left at the junction, he was waving to me at the time.

Off to try and find the Skakavac Waterfall tomorrow, traveling light

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 15 Balkans Trip

Woke up this morning to a very thick fog in Sarajevo and I was hoping that it wasn’t going to be like it all day. Because of the height I was going to I thought that I would climb out of it.
I wasn’t to be disappointed

Day 15 Visit to Skakavac Falls

I was a good trip out and once I got out of the city it was a mixture of paved and unpaved roads. Once I got to the 1000m to to the falls sign, in a little car park there was a barrier.

Some photos from the way up

Sarajevo is under the blanket of fog

 

[Wayne66]

I thought I am not leaving the bike in the car park, just in case…so I managed to squeeze Arrunya through on the right side so I could ride to the falls, or so I thought.
After riding for a K there was another open area with some building work in progress, wooden huts for the summer no doubt. There was yet another sigh pointing to the Falls, it said 850 meters, so I got off the bike and went for a look, it was a track with stairs, no way I was taking the bike down there.
So it was a case of hide the bike or don’t go. The bike got hidden out of view and off I went. It was a right hike, going down was ok but coming back up, well….. I was knackerd..point to note for oneself…remove quilted liners from jacket and trousers before walking a great distance again. I was roasting.
The sight was worth it when I got there although I didn’t hang around to long due to the bike been left and here was no way I was getting back up to the top again in a hurry. I am not as fit as I used to be.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skakavac_Waterfall_(Perućica)

Looking back from the Waterfall

As I got back on the bike and started back along the track towards the barrier again there was a van coming towards me and it was slowing down, I thought I was in for an ear bashing but he was just slowing down to let me passed and he waved at me as I did so.
Back through the barrier and time for a sit down and open the flask before heading back in to the city to sit at a nice cafe I have found and watch the world go by

Sat with the flask

On the way back down

Stopping another night after this one, not in any rush and I quite like the city.
Then it is off toward Vitez, Nova Travnik and Gornji Vakauf

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 16 Balkans Trip

Stayed in the apartment, chilled out for the day. Looking at the next stage of my trip.
Tomorrow I am going to Gornji Vakauf where I was based in 93

Wayne

 

[DavidFL]

This is epic. Many thanks.

 

[Wayne66]

This is epic. Many thanks.

You’re welcome David
Glad you’re enjoying it

 

[Wayne66]

Day 17 Balkans Trip

Today was Sarajevo to Prozor. With a stop off at Vitez, Nova Travnik T Junction and Gornji Vakauf

Day 17 Sarajevo to Prozor

When I left Sarajevo it was very gloomy not with rain cloud but with a kind of smog and it stayed in for most of the day, although in the background the sun was out. It did get better as I progressed.

Gornji Vakauf was where I was based in 93 and one one of the reasons I want to come back to Bosnia. 22 years on and I wanted to see the change.

Some photos from on route

The Autumn colours are definitely out

 

[Wayne66]

My route was to take me firstly to Vitez, I had only been there once as part of the UN in 93 as it was another part of my old Battalions area. But it was on my route so I stopped off and had a brew. Also had a ride round and took some video with the Go-Pro.

From Vitez I went to Nova Travnik T (as we called it), it was a T junction near to Nova Travnik and it was the scene of trouble when I was there. A convoy (which we named the Convoy of Joy due to what it was carrying) which had already been through Gornji Vakuf was stopped at this point and quite a lot of people were dragged out of the vehicles and killed and the convoy was ransacked. Been there as the UN your main job is to observe and not to be seen to be getting involved with a particular side. But seeing this it did not take long for members of my old Battalion to intervene. It made the news for several days after it had happened. I didn’t take photos out of respect.