Thank you for the rehearsal, I had missed this one, another fabulous GTR report. So many things still to visit in the region
Davidfl;251292 wrote:
Made it; & a very contented GT Rider
Amazing Thailand - a memorial museum to the communists fighting the Thai goverment.
Get out there & enjoy it while you can riders. Life here is G-O-O-D!
The more you ride the better it gets.
The Tai Lue have one of the oldest recorded histories. The first Lue Kingdom was formed in Yunnan in 1180. Later in 1570 the then Kingdom was divided into 12 tax collection regions now known as Sip Song Panna. Of these 2 now comprise part of Laos and the other 10, part of today's China.
Tai Lue workers were brought to Thailand to help repopulate the region after the removal of the Burmese. Today they have a strong cultural presence in Nan Province.
The temple, also known as the Wat Ban Ton Laeng is an early 19th century temple in the Thai Lü style. It is a quiet place, seldom visited by foreign tourists.
The main building of this small temple serves both as a viharn and ubosot; its entrance is guarded by two colorful lion statues. The structure has small windows and very little exterior decoration.
Its most distinctive feature is the very unusual, three tiered, overlapping, hipped roof laid with wooden tiles.
Hipped roof and a very small gable
Whereas at the Lanna or Rattanakosin style temples the roof descends on only two sides which leaves room for a large usually heavily decorated gable, at the Wat Ton Laeng the lower two tiers of the roof are hipped; the roof descends on all four sides towards the walls, leaving no room for a gable. Only on the top tier the roof descends to the walls on just two sides, leaving space for a small gable, that is decorated with a colorful sun ray motive. The edges of the lower two tiers of the roof are decorated with triple Naga finials.
Inside the viharn banners woven from cotton hang down from the ceiling. Seated on a pedestal is a large golden Buddha image. The image in the Bhumisparsha mudra (“calling the Earth to witness”) is surrounded by a number of smaller images.
Wat Nong Daeng in Puea sub-district was constructed in 1787 by the Thai Lue and Thai Phuan people. The main Buddha image was cast by Khruba Sitthikan. The first renovation of the assembly hall was done in 1949 and again later in 1995. It was completed in 1996. Within the compound of the temple is a large shady terrace. The Chofa – gable finial decoration of a Buddhist temple’s roof – is engraved into the sculpture of Nok Hatsadiling (Hastilinga) – a mythical bird in the literature whose tip of the beak is an elephant’s trunk.
Under renovation yet again.The Thai Lue people believe that it is a high-ranked animal from heaven. At the same time, the eaves boards are embellished with wooden fretwork, the unique ones of the Thai Lue people. The Buddha image is enshrined on the Chukkachi base – a masonry base of intertwined Nagas, called Naga Throne. It has been believed that the Naga is a symbol of gracefulness, goodness, and a protector of Buddhism. Wat Nong Daeng was granted the Award of Outstanding Performance in the category of Cultural Attraction in Northern Thailand in the 5th Thailand Tourism Awards 2004.
Davidfl;213838 wrote:
Around 2.00 pm I headed north in search of the communist soldiers monument. I figured that I still had 4 1/2 hrs day light riding left for me to slip up to Huay Kon & perhaps track down the monument the same day. Easy eh?
Pua is only approx 60 kms north of Nan and a fast 40 minute ride on R1081.
Chiang Klang is another 16 kms north of Pua.
3 kms north of Chiang Klang a huge new blue highways dept sign indicated the turn off to the Pha Daeng battlefield.
Above: Big new road sign with the local attractions, but no kms. So they are out there somewhere!
I could not believe my luck, this had to be it - I was almost there already. This was Route # 1291, a new one on me & it headed east straight up into the hills.
Above: R1291 & 4017, 2 great biking roads to tackle.
What a road it is. Another exhilarating steep & winding Nan mountain road. After 15 kms R1291 for some reason becomes Route 4017 to run for another 22 kms way way up in the mountains.
Above: R1291 thru the cabbage fields (must be Hmong hill tribes around somewhere?)
Eventually the road ran out in Maneepruek a Hmong village.
Above: Downtown Maneepruek megatropolis.
Above: Maneepruek super highway to nowhere.
Above: End of the road, Thai style. But where's the monument & battlefield?
The GPS showed I was only 7 kms as the crow flies, from route 1081 on the Lao border / east side of Doi Phukha. But there was no battlefield or chedi that I could see. Perhaps Maneepruek was really a Fakawi tribal village, as they certainly knew nothing about a huge monument to fallen communist soldiers or where the battlefield was. You could only laugh about it, but I'd found a new spectacular road, had a great ride, got some nice pictures & so had a good rewarding time. But where was the huge monument nestled spectacularly on the mountain ridgeline?
Davidfl
Keep The Power On
Now is that a 3 hour walk one way, or 3 hours return?Tham Pha Daeng (ถ้ำผาแดง
Tham Pha Daeng is located at Ban Mani Phruek, Mu 11, Ngop subdistrict.
It is a very beautiful cave and the longest one within the Doi Phu Kha National Park. Within the cave are stalactites and stalagmites with beauty, as well as, a large waterfall and brook.
In the past, Tham Pha Daeng was the refuge base of the Communist Party of Thailand.
The traces left inside the cave are beds of soldiers, beds of patients, some of which are still in good condition, secret holes to hide the weapons, pieces of food trays, and utensils.
To get there: Walk for 3 hours around the hills to admire the nature, plants and wildlife, as well as, the houses of the Hmong hilltribe amidst the nature at the centre of the valleys.
Hi. I go often to Mani Phruek, because I live in the area.Davidfl;299254 wrote: Bump for Ian Yonok
Tham Pha Daeng, an old commie cave & camp
Now is that a 3 hour walk one way, or 3 hours return?
DATE: Sat 22 - Tues 25th July 2006.
In the last few weeks having done 101, 1148 & 1091 into Nan I feel that R1091 is the best way to ride into Nan, & then take 1148 out. The difference is marginal, but for sure you will get a better ride and feeling arriving in Nan via 1091.
Pix above: R1091 soars up into the mountains from Chiang Muan & Ban Luang.
Arrival time in Nan was 7.15 pm after checking out a few R1091 roads; & the tip is that Route 3030, north from Sanian (8 kms west of Nan) is good for a 16 kms side trip from Nan city to see some Yao hill tribe villages & lovely forest. Check it out sometime if you're hanging out in Nan looking for something to do.
Davidfl
Keep The Power On
DATE: Sat 22 - Tues 25th July 2006.
Back to Nan for yet another look & mega ride.....
THE WEATHER: Warm - hot 'n very humid, overcast but dry.
Perfect riding conditions yet again.
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THE WAY
DAY 1: Chiang Mai - Mae Kachan - Wang Nua - Phayao - Dok Kham Thai - Chiang Muan - Nan.
Routes: 118 -120 -1- 1021 -1251 -1091
DAY 2: Nan -Tha Wang Pha - Pua - Chiang Klang -Maneepruek - Pua.
Routes: 1081 -1291 -4017 - 1081
DAY 3: Pua -Chiang Klang -Thung Chang - Huay Kon -Pua - Tha Wang Pha - Doi Tiew - Chiang Kham - Thoeng - Chiang Rai.
Routes: 1081 - 1148 - 1082 - 1021
DAY 4: Chiang Rai - Chiang Mai.
Route: 118
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Above: Nice weather near Pua.
The weather had sucked for the last week, but with a nice break from the rain apparent I was ready for a ride & Nan it had to be.......
WHY
A few months ago I read an article in the Bangkok Post or Nation newspaper about a huge new monument (chedi) that had been built in honour on the CPT (Communist Party of Thailand) soldiers killed fighting the govt troops out near Huay Kon north of Nan.
The photo of the chedi situated on the mountain ridgeline was spectacular, but the fact that the monument was erected in honour of the dead CPT soldiers killed battling the Thai govt troops intrigued me. This got me even more, when I read that it was officially opened by the previous head of the Royal Thai army, General Surayud (one of the good guys) and it had been his father who was killed leading the commies fighters against the RTA. (Who said Thailand was not a great democracy?) I had to go and check it out to see if it was all for real. I figured I did not need much info, just the fact it was on a mountain up near Huay Kon where there was only one road, Route 1081 (one of North Thaiâ's great biking roads), and that would be enough to suss the place out.
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Above: A Hmong hunter on R1291. Loved the gun, but dont know about the accuracy.
THE TRIP DAY 1
As I prepared to leave Cnx City for Nan, the weather looked a bit wet & dicey so I decided to hedge my bets. Instead of heading to Nan the quick way via Lampang & Phrae (routes 11 & 101) I opted for Phayao first. Then from Phayao the options were open, & if it looked too wet towards the east & Nan I'd head north to Chiang Rai for the night & to Nan the next day, weather depending. If it was no good then it would be back to Cnx via Tha Ton & Fang. Having so many loops & options to do in North Thailand is one of the reasons it is such a brilliant place to ride and tour!
I got away from the super "on time" (normal for the ol GT Rider) at 1.00 pm. 53 kms out of Chiang Mai as I crossed over the mountain ridgeline on R118 my luck was in with glorious weather. R120 flashed past & I was in Phayao at 3.15 pm for a late lunch. If you have never done R120 from Mae Kachan - Wang Nua - Route 1, then you are missing another great sport bike road & ride in North Thailand. Check out the elevation profile below to get an idea how it crosses the mountains west to east.
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After a short time GPs-ing some of the minor sois in Phayao it was time to head east & onto Nan.
From Phayao then you head back south 3 1/5 kms down R1 & take a lefty (east) onto R1021 for Chun & Nan. After 10 kms down Route 1021 I opted for Route 1251, the Dok Kham Thai - Chiang Muan road. This is one that John Nash from Jonadda ghouse has been raving about for the least few months, and he's right too. The road surface on 1251 is perfect racetrack asphalt - smooth thick, with hardly a ripple and some superb sweeping swooping corners towards the Chiang Muan end. The scenery is generally nice forest, but for me a bit uninteresting & I reckon that R1021 / 1091 to Chiang Muan is a more interesting (villages & farmland) ride than 1251. But 1251 does have one awesome descent at the Chiang Muan end & it's worth doing at least once just for this. Check out the elevation profile for this little baby.
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When you first start the descent it is surprising because you are totally unaware that you are so high up compared to the land below.
From Chiang Muan then its up onto 1091 another superb sweeping swooping road with racetrack quality asphalt all the way into Nan. Check out the R1091 pics below.
In the last few weeks having done 101, 1148 & 1091 into Nan I feel that R1091 is the best way to ride into Nan, & then take 1148 out. The difference is marginal, but for sure you will get a better ride and feeling arriving in Nan via 1091.
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Pix above: R1091 soars up into the mountains from Chiang Muan & Ban Luang.
Arrival time in Nan was 7.15 pm after checking out a few R1091 roads; & the tip is that Route 3030, north from Sanian (8 kms west of Nan) is good for a 16 kms side trip from Nan city to see some Yao hill tribe villages & lovely forest. Check it out sometime if you're hanging out in Nan looking for something to do.
In Nan, the hotel was the Fah Tanin again & it's top value for money at 450 baht a night. I crashed out for a couple of hours, and later woke to drag myself downtown for dinner at the Poom3 & some of Toom's (Ex Da Darios) Italian food.
The food must have been alright because I managed to fire up & drag myself down to the Verachon Pub & Restaurant at 11.00 pm to discover Nan's number 1 adult nightspot. The place was packed, & really rocking with a good band. Twice before in Nan I had tried to find the Verachon, but without success. Now the tip is that it is in a dead end soi, riverside, downstream from the bridge and just past the Nan prison. So find the jail, & go straight onto the river & there you are. (The other # 1 nightspot in Nan is Channel X disco is you're are into delinquent teenagers & loud dance music. All right for some, but not oldies like me.)
THE TRIP DAY 2
Next day up at 8.00 am (super early) for me, check out of the hotel & cruise Nan for a few hours GPS-ing new sois & environs roads. Hint: there's a lot of interesting rural back roads suitable for cycling, west of R101, south of 1091, if you want to spend time dawdling around Nan city outskirts.
Around 2.00 pm I headed north in search of the communist soldiers monument. I figured that I still had 4 1/2 hrs day light riding left for me to slip up to Huay Kon & perhaps track down the monument the same day. Easy eh?
Pua is only approx 60 kms north of Nan and a fast 40 minute ride on R1081.
Chiang Klang is another 16 kms north of Pua.
3 kms north of Chiang Klang a huge new blue highways dept sign indicated the turn off to the Pha Daeng battlefield.
View attachment 79512
Above: Big new road sign with the local attractions, but no kms. So they are out there somewhere!
I could not believe my luck, this had to be it - I was almost there already. This was Route # 1291, a new one on me & it headed east straight up into the hills.
View attachment 79513
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Above: R1291 & 4017, 2 great biking roads to tackle.
What a road it is. Another exhilarating steep & winding Nan mountain road. After 15 kms R1291 for some reason becomes Route 4017 to run for another 22 kms way way up in the mountains.
View attachment 79515
Above: R1291 thru the cabbage fields (must be Hmong hill tribes around somewhere?)
Eventually the road ran out in Maneepruek a Hmong village.
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Above: Downtown Maneepruek megatropolis.
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Above:Maneepruek super highway to nowhere.
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Above: End of the road, Thai style. But where's the monument & battlefield?
The GPS showed I was only 7 kms as the crow flies, from route 1081 on the Lao border / east side of Doi Phukha. But there was no battlefield or chedi that I could see. Perhaps Maneepruek was really a Fakawi tribal village, as they certainly knew nothing about a huge monument to fallen communist soldiers or where the battlefield was. You could only laugh about it, but I'd found a new spectacular road, had a great ride, got some nice pictures & so had a good rewarding time. But where was the huge monument nestled spectacularly on the mountain ridgeline?
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Above: Pua rice padis with Doi Phukha in the background.
I backtracked to Pua for the night & checked into the Chomphu Phukha resort. If you've ever been thru Pua you've probably thought it's not much of a town - just a whistle stop for the buses, and you'd be right.
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Above: Downtown Pua, pretty exciting place eh?
There aint much in town, but there are 2 nice resorts, plus 1 cheap Charlie guesthouse. I use the Chomphu Phukha Resort @ 350 - 600 baht a night. The other resort is the Oob Kaew, costs a bit more & is further up the hill behind the Chomphu Phukha. The Chomphu Phukha wins every time because of the location, good restaurant & the beautiful Miss Ting (who should have quite a fan club amongst North Thailand bikers by now, she is so captivating, but un-catchable!)
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Now if you're doing any of the Doi Phukha loops, then my tip is to start / finish from Pua and not from Nan approx 60 kms away.
After a sumptuous steamed fish with lemon & a 1/4 of a bottle of whisky I realized I was still not going to make any impression on Miss Ting & retired to my room and Thai TV for the night. You cant win em all, but it's fun trying.
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Above: Pua excitement for the night!
THE TRIP DAY 3
I was on the road by 8.15 am the next morning after sampling the Chomphu Phukha brekky - tepid coffee, a cold kow pat moo, but a hot slice of dry toast. Again you can't win 'em all. The CP brekky does not yet rate in the Michelin guide, but there's nowhere else to really go!
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Above: Sign spotted in the local village shop in Maneepruek!
Route 1081 north of Pua gets better the further north you go, and eventually you cant really get roads more winding twisting swooping in North Thai. So R1081 north of Pua is one of the great rides of North Thailand.
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Above: If R1081 north of Huay Kon doesn't put a huge smile on your dial, something's wrong with you!
Huay Kon is approx 60 kms north of Chiang Klang & here at last I got some info at a military "passpoint".
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Above: A place (passpoint) to check in, promptly.
Yes there was indeed a monument to fallen communist soldiers, but it was yet another 40-50 kms further up the road, and supposedly up a steep 4-6 kms dirt sidetrack. Now to get this valuable info I had to first be quizzed exactly what I was doing in this neck of the woods. I did not think that I was that far out of the way, but they insisted I quickly dismount from bike, register my details (& half life history in Thailand), before they would answer my query about the monument. I also think we had a bit of a personality clash so the whole situation was a bit tense for the first 10-15 minutes. Eventually all was clear & I knew that I was on the right track. Now the hot tip they did give me was that the dirt track would be terribly greasy, & so impassable if it was wet. I had no chance on the heavy Africa Twin. I thanked him for their info & headed off as fast as I could.
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It was an enjoyable ride with magnificent panoramic views over the surrounding mountains and valleys. Then suddenly after 35 kms the cloud cover came in, blackened out the sky totally & poured with rain.
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Above: The rain eventually got me!
I stopped to put my waterproofs on, then changed my mind & thought lets get out of here. It would be a waste of time continuing Even if it stopped raining there was no sun to dry out any dirt tracks, so it would only be grease. I could only laugh yet again, but I'll be back after the wet season for another crack it.
At Huay Kon then I checked out the local border crossing to Laos & noted that there is not much going on.
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Above: Huay Kon border crossing to Laos. Not much going on here.
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At least the Huay Kon immigration sign advises you to complete a pax & crew list if you are leaving Thai with a vehicle!
I first came here 11 years ago, when word got out that the border was an international crossing, and indeed it was - but only on the Thai side & you could not get into Laos! Now after 11 years it is still the same & obvious that the Lao are not in any rush to open up the border to foreigners.
View attachment 79532
The road out to the Huay Kon border crossing, not much traffic using this road. Check out the weeds growing in the middle of the road.
But on the Thai side you have to wonder about the huge signs promoting the border market & crossing to Laos - I think they jumped the gun a bit.
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It was a bit of a race back down into Pua, but what a ride it is on 1081 from Huay Kon. Basically from just north of Huay Kon you are at the source of the Nan river, and with the road generally following the river south you are just going downhill all the way. Check it out sometime - it's an extremely good ride!
Just out of Tha Wang Pha then I decided to check out another favourite road of mine, but one that I don't get on too often as it is just a side road up a big mountain.
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Above: R1082 is also another steep mountain road to check out in Nan province.
This is route 1082 & the Doi Tiew road. The views here are sensational and the climb really is as good as they get.
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Views on R1082, the Doi Tiew road.
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Riding the ridgeline on R1082.
The asphalt ends up in the village of Sop Khun, 37 kms from R1091. If you're on a road bike, then the only option is to turn around and come back out. But if you're on a dirt bike & a bit of a half decent trail rider, then there still is a link up from Sop Khun over to the next mountain Doi Phachi, & then onto either Ban Luang or Pong. Doi Phachi is also another old CPT HQs site, which is worth investigating & exploring sometime....
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Above: GPS Elevation profiles for the morning & lunch time rides - another hard day at the office.
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And if it all gets too much, then pamper yourself yourself with some "cosmatics" available at the Pua Shell gas station mini mart.
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Fleeing the scene (rain)on R1148, headed for Chiang Rai.
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Above: Scenery on Route 1148. Tha Wang Pha - Chiang Kham.
Davidfl
Keep The Power On
Fascinating stuff here all around. Wish I had it when I rode 1081 recently from Bo Klua to Chalerm Prakiat and back to Pua.
The asphalt ends up in the village of Sop Khun, 37 kms from R1091. If you're on a road bike, then the only option is to turn around and come back out. But if you're on a dirt bike & a bit of a half decent trail rider, then there still is a link up from Sop Khun over to the next mountain Doi Phachi, & then onto either Ban Luang or Pong. Doi Phachi is also another old CPT HQs site, which is worth investigating & exploring sometime
From Sop Khun to Doi Phachi (Santisuk) there's a narrow trail that winds through the mountains.
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At the Doi Phachi end there is a small cemetery for the communists who died.
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Now if someone wants to go & check it out & write it up for GTR......you should also be careful walking around in the area because the local say that there are supposedly still a few land mines laying around from the war= take a guide if you want to go hiking!