Luang Prabang - Chiang Khong - A Ride Home - 2025

DavidFL

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Continued from

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Staying at the Bounchaleurn GH, my favourite brekky spot in Luang Prabang was the Coffee Express.
A relaxed open-air cafe with good coffee plus baguettes and and croissants from the famed Le Banneton.

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A salami baguette for BF.
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The ham and cheese baguettes are also excellent.
Get some takeaways and enjoy them on your ride in the day.

Coffee and chocolate croissants.
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Le Banneton is really the # 1 brekky spot, but it is too popular and crowded nowadays for me to enjoy a breakfast there, such is its fame.
The Coffee Express is 450 meters from the Bounchaleurn.
The Coffee Express is also the fave hangout of MK Mongkhon from Luang Prabang Holiday Travel, who is the number one man in Luang Prabang for motorcycle tour permits into Laos.

A change in the weather, light rain and heavy overcast, delayed my departure from Luang Prabang longer than planned.
No wet weather gear or warm clothes being the issue.
I didn't fancy riding out shivering through the mountains with only a mesh jacket and on probable treacherous, greasy roads.
Heavy rain is better to clean the roads, but light rain only makes them extra greasy. It's better to be slow and safe for sure rather than coming off on a remote, isolated road with little traffic and no facilities.

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I broke the trip up into 2 days with a night in Hongsa. Luang Prabang - Hongsa and Hongsa - Chiang Khong.
Departure time from Luang Prabang = 11am
Arrival time in Hongsa = 5 PM

The start from Chomphet, across the river from Luang Prabang.
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35 kms out from Luang Prabang it was time for a little break in a village with lots of kids.

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Often when you park up in a village, the kids all come to look at the big bike, but when you try to get some photos, they are often shy and go away. To break the ice and befriend the kids, the GTR trick is to buy some goodies for the kids

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Some riders might buy the kids sweets, but I prefer to buy toiletries for hygiene—shampoo, soap, or fab washing detergent.
The cost is minimal & is always a winner.
You spend money in the local community, and the kids always appreciate the gifts.
Then you can get some nice pics with the kids.

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The road continues up and down over the mountains. The ascents and descents are steep and often long.

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On a steep, long descent, in the distance I noticed what may have been a motorcycle in the bushes in a roadside drain.
As I got closer, I realised it was a scooter in the drain, upside down, with a Hmong guy sitting on it.
As I went past, he looked up with a bloodied face. Oops, an accident, alright.
I did a U-turn and went back to see if I could help or what I could do.
The Hmong guy walked over and appeared coherent. Yes, he was, ok?
Then I looked over towards his bike and noticed his riding buddy face down in the ditch. Blood came out of his ears with his legs and feet still twitching. A terrible, disturbing scene.

The accident was in the middle of nowhere, on a very isolated road.
70 kms out of LPQ.
50 kms from Hongsa.

They both needed transport out of the area, but there was nothing I could really do.
I felt helpless and said to the guy I would get some help in the next village if I could.
The next village was unfortunately 14 km away.
As I rode on several oncoming Lao vehicles—mini vans and pickups—passed, heading in the direction of the accident scene.
Hopefully they would be able to provide assistance and / or some transport.

How cheap life was in the Lao boonies, I thought.

To be continued.
 
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DavidFL

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Once out of the mountains and into the Hongsa valley, it was time for a break and to finish off a ham and cheese baguette from Express Coffee in Luang Prabang.
Of note on R4B is that there really is no shade anywhere along the road.
It is wide, with little forest cover along the way, providing any shade over the road.
A couple of times I thought wouldn't it be nice to stop in the shade somewhere for a drink and to take a few photos, but nope, you are riding out in the open all the way, with little or no shade.

My stop in the valley for a drink and finishing off a baguette.
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Napoung is the village.

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Trundling along in the valley 9 kms before Hongsa, there were a couple of interesting wats along the way.

Wat Thankham

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Wat Si Boun Heuang

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This was a magnificent old wat, with some fabulous murals.
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I had a nice conversation with a Lao guy from Luang Prabang, who had spent 40 years in Canada, but had recently returned home to Laos and Luang Prabang. He now spent his retirement years restoring old temple murals and painting.

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The Buddha images inside the Viharn were also old beauties and reminded me of Wat Namkeo Luang in Muang Sing.

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Check-in time at my hotel was 3.30 PM.

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My preferred hotel, the Alounvan, from the inbound trip was full, so it was time to fossick around for another one.
The PhengPhachan was the winner on the day @ 200,000 kip / 320 baht, but I would much rather stay at the Alounvan.

 
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DavidFL

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A pre-sunset cruise around town showed up the Sai Nam Kaen View restaurant that looked inviting.

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However, a return later did not offer anymore encouragement with no customers, so I retreated to the Mae Bua Kham for a bite to eat & then an early night. I was actually still a bit upset about the accident I had witnessed earlier on in the day and not in the right frame of mind for a party night.

The next day I had a plan to exit at Pangmone from Laos into Huak/Chiang Kham in Thailand.
Originally, I thought I would spend one or two nights in here, checking out the little towns of Xienglom and Muang Khop on the way in, but the bike permit fee at Pangmone was more than I wanted to pay. So I entered Laos from Huay Kon at Muang Ngeun.
However, being a superstitious person, hitting a cow on the way in, then seeing that disturbing accident, I thought that was a warning for this trip—no more remote, isolated roads riding alone. To exit via Pangmone was another 150 km. Time to go home safely asap. Let's save it for another day.

From Hongsa to the border at Huay Kon was 40 km. The rain from the earlier couple of days was gone, so hopefully, the R101 road works would all be negotiable safely—no snot!
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Breakfast was 2 coffees and a chocolate cake at the PTT Amazon in Hongsa.
It was a clear magnificent day for riding.

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That Hongsa power plant is huge and must employ hundreds of people.
I noted the outstanding Thipakone liquor shop in Hongsa with a huge variety of good, expensive whiskies, plus wine!

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Big 3 and 4 litre bottles of whisky!
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All hooch for the well-paid thirsty power plant workers—Lao and Thai!
The Pheng Phachan hotel I stayed at on the return trip was full of Thai power plant workers.
The Mae Bua Kham restaurant on the way in had Chivas drinking Thai workers eating and drinking.
Obviously, that power plant has been a great help to the local economy.

And when you cross back into Thailand, it feels wonderful that there is a PTT/Amazon/7-11 all along the way.
How spoiled we have become!

Exiting Laos was straight forward and simple.
Get your passport stamped out and hand in your bike permit sticker and documents.

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Back into Thailand, if you're on a one-year visa, make sure you get your passport stamped back in for the remainder of your visa.
For customs, just hand your bike export documents back in and away you go.

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The glory of R101.
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I was most thankful that none of the steep downhill dirt sections were wet or had just been watered by the watertruck.
As it was, I rode very slowly due to my superstitious mind, that "accidents or incidents" come in threes.

Departure time from the Huay Kon border = 11.45 AM.
The first stop was for brunch at Little La Cuisine in Pua, at 1 PM.

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The Little La Cuisine is a gem, a small aircon cafe with excellent food.

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Tuna Salad.
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Roast Chicken.
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If you're a bit hot from riding, bookmark the Little La Cuisine for a cool spot to have a good meal and relax in the aircon.


Conveniently located next to the Little La Cuisine is a mobile phone shop where I was able to get my Thai sim working properly in my phone again. Bookmark this shop too.

Next stop was a "splash and a dash" for fuel at the fuel at the PTT Tha Wang Pha 2.30PM.
On the Vstrom you can get from Luang Prabang - Tha Wang Pha on one tank = 250 kms.

R1148 is the challenge, and in fabulous weather it was a superb ride, soaking up the atmosphere and clean air.

Some magic mountain beauty.

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Time: 4.30 PM.

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1.5 hours later I was in Tesco Lotus, Chiang Khong, stocking up on supplies after 10 days away.
Total distance = 993 kms.
I noted Luang Prabang - Chiang Khong = 474 kms.
I reckon on another trip in the hot, dry season, I could do Luang Prabang-Chiang Khong "non-stop" in one day.
Anyone up for a "long ride?"
 
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DavidFL

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