Laos Spectacular

[brian_bkk]

Today we head up to the Green Triangle.

But first here is an excellent report from Jurgen.

Detailing the development in the area as well as more concerning invasion from the north.

Sad to say we also experienced locals loaded up with buckets of toxic pesticides and no protection.

The banana tree plantation are endless.

Thanks again for sharing this report Jurgen.

https://www.gt-rider.com/se-asia-motorcycling/topic/chiang-kok-and-the-lao-myanmar-bridge

The first part of the track to the Green Triangle is a bit crap to be honest.

Rocks and just an unpleasant bouncy ride.. I can't remember the exact distance.. may be 20 or 30 km it starts to get nice..

Just before here

We stop and take a look over the edge in case a local lost it on the steep slippery mountain edge.
Couldn't see anything and continued on.

Burma on the left side of the Mekong. Sitting in Laos.. China around the ben in the river.

Some bike repairs in the middle of no where..

Stop and buy and drink and talk to the locals on the way back to Luang Namtha.

Ended up arriving in Luang Namtha just after dark.. Nice paved road and a good pizza and beer Lao.

The next day we are off to Phongsaly.

Cheers and beers.. More to come..

 

[brian_bkk]

Going to combine part of a current ride I am on with this report.

Last week spent3 days 2 nights in below the Phu Chi Fa / Doi Pha Tang area with Frank..

Here is a short clip of some of the road works going on in the area.

Pretty amazing. The new border crossing will open up next year. So there will be another way in to Laos for foreigners.  Heard this before and also confirmed by the friendly army guy at the border post.


Cheers

Brian

 

[brian_bkk]

A correction here for my Phu Chi Fa (Laos) base pictures

At the time I was thinking this doesn't look right.. But convinced myself it must be.

Well, I was in the wrong smaller valley next to the valley at the base of Phu Chi Fa.

I only realised this a few days before leaving on the next Laos trip and comparing my tracks with the Track Moto-Rex sent me.

Good thing is.. The locals told of us a short but between the valley to the real base of Phu Chi Fa.
Which I had also seen on Google Earth.

Cutting out a huge run around back out the Muang Khop and then the road works to the mekong and turning back in to the the track that takes you to the Phu Chi Fa turn off.

Cheers and Beers
Brian

 

[DavidFL]

How lucky you were getting this all in before that record breaking cold spell & rain we've just had. So good eh

 

[DavidFL]

How lucky you were getting this all in before that record breaking cold spell & rain we've just had. So good eh

 

[brian_bkk]

A bit delayed... Too much riding the last year while I gave retirement a test run ;-)
I liked it and will be taking up as a full time job when the time is right.

So now time to catch up with the pending ride reports..

Continuing on the the Green Triangle and a couple of refresher pictures.

Concrete track down to the river where the picture was taken looking up the Mekong to China / Burma..

Stopping off at a village on the way back to Muang Sing..

Not sure what Scott said..

But when you get your camera out.

The kids run for the hills.. Literally.

Look back and make sure they are not running after us LOL

We tried to go a different way back to Muang Sing. Which ended up being a deadend and the rough track at the bottom before town.
But still a great ride up..

Pretty easy ride to Luang Namtha.. Except I judged the time wrong and we ended up getting in after dark..

A days rest and checking out the sites.

Lovely temple.

Lots more to come

 

[Moto-Rex]

Great to see this thread up and running again.
Quote. "A bit delayed... Too much riding the last year while I gave retirement a test run" More like to busy riding to bother with working.

Great stuff Brian.

 

[brian_bkk]

We took a track Moto Rex showed me back a few years ago.
But this time.. We are going to Pongsaly. With Moto Rex we went right up to Ou Tai and skipped Pongsaly.

You take a bit of tarmac before turning off.. On the Google Earth Overlay it is listed in red writing.
This is still fun.. But progress has arrived.

A really pretty temple on the way in the middle of a small remote village.

Progress has arrived..
The little wooden bridge was the only one when Moto Rex and I went through a few years back.

I don't have a pic of the next bridge.. It isn't finished.. But 99% done.
The guy at the little wooden bridge really wanted to rip us off.. 50,000 kip each.

We were happy to pay 10,000 kip.. but 50 K is just greedy.. He wouldn't budge..

Back we head to the unfinished bridge.. Ride up on it to the end.. Only a small ledge and wood sticking up where they had poured the concrete.
Then a small gap before the dirt at the end of the bridge..

We collected the loose timber on the bridge, stacked it up to make a small ramp and jumped over the gap and wood where the concrete had set.

All while the greedy bugger watched LOL.. May be he charged 10k each for the next farang bikes.. ?

Some really nice remote villages.

It is a hard life for some.

This was a lot of fun.. We pull up and the kids are washing their bikes in the river and playing.
So we encourage them to ride them out.. They take up the challenge..

Scott and I decided it is only fair we also take our own challenge and go over the creek / river and ride through.
Amusing for the kids and villagers watching.

Here is a short video of us having some fun with the locals crossing the river.


I thought it would be fun to ride over the bridge for a change..
BUT when I made it to the other side.. the boom gate was padlocked.. No way getting it off.

So Scott came back and pushed me backwards off the bridge..
The locals passing on scooters had big grins on their faces

Just another magical spot on the trail..

Nearly at Pongsaly..

More to come.. Bed time and work tomorrow

Cheers
Brian

 

[brian_bkk]

We take the paved road the rest of the way up up up to Pongsaly..
Lots of road works on the way up near the top and of course, sketchy bus and truck drivers.

Scotty nearly came off on some diesel that was on the shiny tarmac. Just held it together, with the front foot right out and saved it.
We both were careful after that..

Shiny roads, damp cool mountain air, afternoon dew / mist and diesel on the road.. Lovely combination

We check in to a nice and clean guest house.. Not really much to do here in the evening.
Find an OK non Chinese restaurant where the food looks clean, Lao people friendly.

The next morning I woke up before Scott and headed up to Phou fa Mountain.

"Phou Fa, or Mountain in the Sky"
- Travelfish.org

"Phou Fa Mountain

At an altitude of 1626 meters, the mountain of Phou Fa boasts one of region’ s most scenic sites and also lends an alpine feel to the area surrounding this hill station. According to the legend , a man named SansiOnsa led over a thousand families of immigrants from Tibet, Myanmar and Chiang Mai, Golden Triangle to settle in Vieng Phou Kha (Luang Namtha Province) and later upward to Nam Ou river reaching Bhak Long on the banks of Bhak Long river about 6-7 generations ago. On arrival, they found a densly forested region which was considered an ideal place for them to settle and establish a new home.
Covered by densely tropical forest, the mountain of Phou Fa is decorated with plenty of colourfull flowers, especially in cool season, some of which are Dok Thong, Dok Gnui, Dok Khai, Dok Bhik, Dok Ban and so on. The mountain range is also home to many wild animals such as wild fiwls, Sambar deers, Barking deers, javans tigers, bears and different species of birds. The unforgettable sounding in the forest is the song of wild reindeer. The echo explains that when it rains, reindeer calls for the sun, and when it is sunny, reindeer calls again for the rain.
The peak of Phou Fa mountain covers an area of about 300 square meters, which has been a strategic position during the recent war. In 1999, local villagers constructed a path with 431 steps, up to the peak of the mountain making it become a symbol and a definite tourist attraction of Phong Saly."
- Vietiong travel

Phongsaly Overview:-
About Phongsaly

A couple of stops along the way for a pic with the town and sea of fog below.

It is quite a hike up and the track is rough, rutted.. A few times I wished I had my boots on as slippery early in the morning.
I would not really want to do this on a heavy road bike and with road tyres..

The views are spectacular. This was around 7 am.

Sea of fog..

I went back down and we had breakfast and came back up again.. This time with Scott.

Didn't take long for the cloud to burn off.
Get up there early!

Around 10 am. This time wearing riding gear before we headed off.

Here is Phuo Fa Mountain from the edge of town closest to the mountain.
You can see the temple at the top.

Here is a short video riding to / from Phongsaly..
Narrow road and a truck pushes us off the road once.


More to come

 

[brian_bkk]

Today we head off to Boun Tai but not before exploring the back trails around Phongsaly town.

Just absolutely stunning..

After exploring around here we arrive on dark at Boun Tai

A couple of streets back off the main road.. Forget the name now.
Good, clean, secure parking for the bikes but no food.

There were a few grim looking places back along the main road if you don't want to take 10 mins to scout around.

Then it was time for beers and cheers

All the restaurants were closed and we were really hungry.

This place agreed to open up and cooked up a storm

Plus the girls had a few beers with us.

The next morning we go and check out the French Fort. Peter had given us some directions via Facebook in the evening.
I was pretty sure we spotted this on dusk on the way in to town too.. Pretty easy to find.

We head to the market and get breakfast.. On the way we are entertained by a cock fight..

More to come...

 

[brian_bkk]

Too much riding recently.. Vietnam and other local rides..
Back to this report..

We decide to try and get to Muang Khoua via dirt.
Looks like there is a couple of Guest Houses in Muang Samphan to break up the journey or we camp.

Take a bit of tarmac and turn off to one of the most lovely trails in Laos..

Lots of ethnics along the way...

Plus lovely scenery... " The hills were alive with sunflowers.."
So spectacular.. Around every bend and all along the track.. Where should I stop to take photo?
All too good.

Above is just a very very small sample of kilometres of track like this covered in sun flowers.
Some times the entire mountain was a sea of yellow.

Spot the terraced rice to the left looking at the pictures.

You can make out the trail looking closely at the end of the village

Scotty had a flat.. Nice nail sticking out..
But we couldn't get the tyre off.. so he rode on wet and rutted and slippery track for what felt like forever on the flat.
Standing up on the front... Eventually we find a village and they have the tools to change the tyre..

Great we are in business.. We have one spare tube left.. Started with three.

We took a drink and Scott was playing with the kids.. Holding a few thousand kip on one hand and they had to guess to win it.
Hilarious.. But it took 9 goes before they guess the correct hand.. The more they got it wrong the greater the laughter.

Some friendly locals filling up the water supply for the village
Nice and fresh, right out of the mountain rock.. Would even drink that myself unfiltered.

Stunning views.. you really are away and remote out here..

Much more to come...

 

[brian_bkk]

We head on and on.. This track is dead quite. No motorbikes, no cars.. Nothing...

We reach the top and what looks like a long decent down..
Just as Scotty takes off.. the arse end of my bike is all over the place... Damn... A flat.

Just before the decent.. We can see this white man mad object below.
The track looks to be taking us there.. Is it a town or a bridge... hard to tell..

Already on the way down and the track is too narrow to stop and start changing a tyre just in case a car or truck does come along.

So my turn the stand up on the pegs with weight forward..

Almost at the bottom and Scotty appears all excited..

" Bri.. Turn you go pro on mate.. you aint gunna believe this "
Then he was gone...

Not even time to say.. I have a flat.. Oh well off I go again LOL

So I reach the bottom.. Take about 10 looks at my GPS..
That bloody great big load of water isn't meant to be here.

Scotty was laughing for days after.. My face and checking the GPS again and again..
- Progress in Laos..

Scotty said he will take care of the mechanics and I take care of the navigation.
Perfect... While I try and work out if there is a way around.. Scotty is changing the rear tyre.

He is a handy man to have on a trip.
Loves giving the tyre tubes a good pumping.


So tyre changed.. We figure there must be a ferry or some kind of boat transport..
But can't see anything.. Too late to go back.. So looks like we are camping here...

About 20 mins later a lady turns up on a Fino with Baby onboard..

She looks at us a bit surprised.. Walks over to the tree and shows us a piece of paper in the tree with a phone number.
Calls the number and sure enough a boat arrived 10 mins later..

Like everything in life.. easy when you know how..

We load up Scotts bike on a smaller boat and that goes off in to the sunset.. with the guy hold it stable with one hand and arse planted on the boat..

Then another bigger ocean liner comes for both Scotty and me and the mighty KLX.

We had to lift the bikes in while standing knee deep in the water..
Not as easy as you would think. Trying not to tip the bike over and in the drink on the other side.
Just the two of us, while old mate keeps the boat steady..

Scotts view.. Both our arse panted down to lower the centre of gravity...

Short video crossings the dam..

We are nearly there

Safe and sound across to the other side
Scott was especially happy as he forgot his passport is in the bag strapped to the bike!
The locals were fair with the price to get the bikes over as well and had a good laugh with us..

My ocean liner to the left, Scotts canoe to the right.

Scott should have got a discount.. This guy caught dinner on the way across ;-)
Same style boat Soctts bike went over on with the crew and captain.
Scott was too much of a heavy weight to join that voyage.

Next stop Samphan .

Just a short ride away.. You ride right through the dam site..

I do wonder if you were coming the other way.. The security may not let you pass..
I did hear of that happening to some others a few months back.

But the way we came.. There is really no realistic way back and best to just let you out..

One guest house in town and a real dive..

Would have preferred to camp really..

It was a 70's night in town.. Scotty fitted right in with his John Travolta moves on the dance floor.

More to come...

 

[DavidFL]

Aha the adventure continues. Good stuff.
That was a nice looking fish the guy caught.
did you look around Samphan city much at all?

 

[brian_bkk]

The town is actually quite nice.. Steep little roads.

Great little Vietnamese bike repair shop. Very helpful.. Couldn't fix the problem, refused to take any money..
We gave him something anyway to which he was appreciative.

The GH we stayed in was pretty grotty. The woman running it, incredibly lazy..
Flies every where.. food sitting around..
I refused to eat there.. Just drink the cold drinks and eat else where.

Moto-Rex is in trouble when it comes to Disco moves.
I do believe Scott will be crowned Disco King for 2015


Cheers
Brian

 

[brian_bkk]

The next day we head to Muang Khua..
Following the Nam Ou.. Nice scenery but the road was as dusty as hell and a few trucks about.

A road coming to you soon!

This use to be the way across.. The boat men waved us up the road to a new bridge.

Tempting to get a good run up with the mighty KLX...

Beer O'clock

Then a explore around town on foot.

If I remember correctly.. We were there in a couple of hours..
Checked in to the usual place in town Moto Rex showed me years back.. Nice family run place.
Bike locked away at night..

Beers and cheers
Brian

 

[brian_bkk]

The next day we head to Nong khiew.

A nice steep up and up and up....

Great little track.. though progress is catching up once you get down one the mountain on the other side.

Tough job doing road works here

Spectacular Laos...

We stopped at a small village in the middle and bought the kids a load of treats.
One of the parents spoke a little english and thanked us..

No thanks needed. Happy to see the kids smiling..

Everyone ended up with a drink, biscuits and chips etc.. nearly cleaned out the shop LOL

On we go.. The track get rougher..

Still a ripper ride in here..

Then you arrive at progress...

Next stop.. Nong Khiew..

 

[Fishenough]

Great trip report Brian, really enjoying it. When first moving to Thailand, still several years away from meeting any of the GT Rider crew and learning so much more about Thailand roads, my son and I spent 2 months puttering slowly through Laos and Cambodia. That slow tour through Laos was an incredible introduction to the country, and your pictures bring back many good memories of that trip. Thank you.

Now I enjoy the hardship of northern Canada and have to wake to this every morning. Off course this year during our March 16th fishing tournament there was 84 cm of ice on the lake, but on April 16th I put the boat in the water. All the while dreaming of a return trip to Laos.

 

[brian_bkk]

Cheers,

Glad you enjoy the pics and brings back fond memories.

Hope to meet you one day

Beers and cheers
Brian

 

[brian_bkk]

Next stop Nong Khiaw..
What a cool place to hang out and relax after some long days on the trails..

In the morning just as we were leaving we bumped in to the ride china guys..

Couple of little shows offs teasing the Farang as he is taking pictures.

Next Stop Luang Prabang.

Time to catch up with Kay and his bike group from Chiang Mai..
Plus Chris - Steve C Canyon.. and by chance.. we will meet Thongkhoon also...
Small world indeed.

But first this ripper track to LPQ..

More to come...

 

[pseacraft]

Great pics and write up! I really want to do this one of these days. Wish I could bring my Sherco SER-F 300 home but too much red tape. Will have to make do with the ol' KLX or if I am lucky upgrade to something a bit better.

One question though, since you had a few punctures (something my KLX is very good at) would you consider running mousse's even though they would limit your tarmac speed if one cared?

 

[brian_bkk]

Great pics and write up! I really want to do this one of these days. Wish I could bring my Sherco SER-F 300 home but too much red tape. Will have to make do with the ol' KLX or if I am lucky upgrade to something a bit better.

One question though, since you had a few punctures (something my KLX is very good at) would you consider running mousse's even though they would limit your tarmac speed if one cared?

Have heard about tubeless dirt bike tyres.. But not really seen them readily available in Bangkok.

When riding on your own.. Agree. Winner.

Think we ended up with 3 flats that trip and managed to buy a spare made in China tube in samphan. The diameter of the tyre was smaller but Scott said will get us out of trouble. If I remember correctly we ended up using one on Scott's bike entering phonsavan and was fine.

Cheers
Brian

 

[brian_bkk]

In to Sabaidee Alley on the way to Luang Prabang..

This is why we call it Sabaidee Alley..

Lots of progress as you get closer to Luang Prabang..
But 2/3 of the track is still good fun..

The kids come running out yelling Sabaidee or in some cases give a Wai..

Stunning mountains with roads running along the ridge line

Not scared either.

Then I stumble across the abandoned Farang kid.. yelling out Sabaidee as I passed..


Watch out for live stock...

Road works towards the end..

Never mind.. A local waiting offers some fruit / vegetable..

Such kind people..

Scotty was gone for a while.. I go back and sure enough..
Another flat.....

We arrive LPQ.. Flats and a few broken bits..
My number plate is nearly dead...

Time to catch up with Chris (Steve C Canyon ) and Kay.. for beers and Cheers

More to come...

 

[brian_bkk]

We arrive Luang Prabang.. Beer Lao by the Majestic Mekong a must.

Then off to catch up with friends..

Chris ( Steve C Canyon ) at Moto Lao..

Chris showing off the Bar chairs are made out of Beer Lao crates..

Then it was time to catch up with Kay.. Visiting with his tour group from Chiang Mai.

Then a Facebook message from TK.. He is in LPQ as well...

Busy town and lots of catching up...

The next day we relaxed.. Walked around.. Beer Lao here and there then met Chris in the evening.

Lots more to come......

 

[brian_bkk]

After a few lovely days in Luang Prabang.. It was time to leave.

Always tough leaving LPQ.. Just so relaxing by the Mekong and endless beautiful sunset accompanied by copious amounts of Beer Laos.

There are two ways that I know of to go via dirt to Phonsavan.
The easy way and the harder way..

Having done the harder way before a few years back, plus Chris warned the hard way track was rutted to hell and your fillings will shake out..

So we decided to take the easier way... Well that was until I went the wrong way..
The wrong way was the harder way.. doh.

Chris was right.. ruts and holes and a bumpy bouncy ride.. But still fun..

This is the route we ended up going.

Some steep ups and downs.

But first the road is OK.. Newly paved in the early part after turning off the main drag.

The some major road works.. then back to the track..

All pretty easy going up to here..

Then hit the ruts and bouncing around until the river crossing.

My turn

Once you get past here.. The track really is rutted and messed up and steep up up up up as you can see my the GPS picture.

You are riding right on the lip of the rut.. fall off and you will go right in and probably need two of you to get the bike out.

Glad we were riding up it and not down it..

Also Scott's bike being a bit thirsty was running low on fuel..
There is nothing in here.. A few times we stopped and scott was taking it easy..

Making plans in case I had to go out and back with a couple of litres.

We just made it to the main road.. Again when you get closer to the main tracks..
Lots of road works :-(

As we pull out on to the main road.. bang.. a flat..
Well.. Better out here than in the bush...

Next stop Phonsavan and Beer Lao o'clock.

More to come..

 

[Moto-Rex]

Nothing like going the right way that ends up being the wrong way, that ends up being the best way.
Is the LPQ to Phonsavan track you guys rode the same track we rode together in the other direction a few years ago?
Sabaidee ally is a ripper, just love that track.
Great report Brian,...brings back some good memories.

Moto-Rex