Kawasaki Versys is here
- Thread starter TonyBKK
- Start date
Thank you, once I have my beast, I can ask Ian to show me on a map. For the time being I am waiting for the white parts and the tires.
Cheers
Jurgen
Cheers
Jurgen
My personal favorite would be bright shocking lemon yellow instead of the wine red, that should clash nicely with the black and give it an aggressive, poisonous look.
Next step would be to paint the rear swing arm and foot brackets the same color as the frame - why they're light silver in the first place I don't know.
And then a decent sounding muffler.
Next step would be to paint the rear swing arm and foot brackets the same color as the frame - why they're light silver in the first place I don't know.
And then a decent sounding muffler.
The primary purpose of modern motorcycle exhausts is to cut emissions and noise as required by law. More stringent regulations are the reason why bikes are getting HEAVIER year after year.
The Versys is built to pass Thailand's extremely strict emissions requirements. The Thai emissions standards for motorcycles are extremely strict and are in some ways MORE strict than EURO III emission regulations. It's also the reason why Yamaha only sells California CARB spec bikes in Thailand.
The stock exhaust on your Versys weighs about 20 pounds. :shock: Not only is it very HEAVY, it also restricts the power of your bike. Most aftermarket manufacturers publish dyno charts showing the increase in power and torque that you can achieve by using their product. Most aftermarket exhausts have been shown to give the EX650 a modest 2-3 Hp gain. Opening up the airbox, adding a fuel injection module and ignition booster are all effective ways of gaining more power as well.
In addition to an increase in power and torque, aftermarket cans cut SIGNIFICANT weight.
Cutting weight improves performance. Most aftermarket cans weigh about 3-5 pounds.
Sure, imported exhausts often do retail for as much as 18-20k Baht here in Thailand thanks to the hefty import duties, but you can buy a decent aftermarket can from abroad for a whole lot less and carry it over in your suitcase. Or if you have it shipped even with the cost of shipping and duty you'll likely still come out well below Thai retail.
There are some Thai brands now available for the EX650 as well that are a lot cheaper than import brands. DBS, Tyga and Tsukigi are a few of the cheap locally manufactured brands I can think of. I also know some shops in Bangkok that are selling knock-off Leo Vince's and Yoshimura pipes but no idea about what kind of quality you might expect from the knock-offs...
Ride On!
Tony
back on the subject of Versys, I have just ordered one and am interested in what tires to put on it. It seems that whatever happens the Dunlops have to go and I have read on this forum of replacing them with Bridgstone BT 021's, Continental TKC80's or Pirelli MT6r's (which by all accounts wont last long). There seems to be no mention of Diablo Rosso on a Versys but plenty of folk seem to use them on ER6n's?
Im not the least bit technical and ride to see things along the way, so not a Moto GP type. I dont go off tarmac, except when the road runs out it for whatever reason but plan to spend a lot of time in Laos when I eventually get plates.
If any informed Versys owner can comment, or anyone else for that matter who knows about these things, I would be grateful to hear.
Im not the least bit technical and ride to see things along the way, so not a Moto GP type. I dont go off tarmac, except when the road runs out it for whatever reason but plan to spend a lot of time in Laos when I eventually get plates.
If any informed Versys owner can comment, or anyone else for that matter who knows about these things, I would be grateful to hear.
Not used BT021's over here - dont think I can get them for the Bonnie but used the 021,020 & whatever preceeded that & found them very good indeed. Not on a Kwak Versy's obviously but on Triumph Trophy 900 & 1200 & Honda Pan European STX 1300. Last quite well & good in the wet. Think the Diablos are high speed tyres primarily. :thumbup:
Pirelli Diablo Rossos are excellent tires, but they're more sport than touring and as such will give you a somewhat rougher ride and won't last as long as the Bridgestone Battlax BT021. If you ride hard and/or do the occasional track day then Diablos or even Dragon Supercorsa Pros or Diablo Supercorsa might be a good choice.
Another tire that would be excellent on the Versys is the Pirelli Scorpion Trail. I believe the BMW F800GS wears Scorpion Trails and following West through the fast bends of the 304 to Wang Nam Kiao I can verify that they have excellent grip!
I think West said he even used them for a track day! I've heard nothing but positive reviews for the Pirelli Scorpion Trail.
Ride On!
Tony
BT021s are great and easy to get because they're stock on the Kawasaki Ninja 650R.
BT023s are supposed to be even better - they're the next version of the BT021s. When I need new ones I'll try to either get BT023s or Scorpion Trails (and thanks for the tip!).
Just got my packet of EBC brake pads in the mail - no problems ordering from the advertiser here on GT rider.
BT023s are supposed to be even better - they're the next version of the BT021s. When I need new ones I'll try to either get BT023s or Scorpion Trails (and thanks for the tip!).
Just got my packet of EBC brake pads in the mail - no problems ordering from the advertiser here on GT rider.
EBC pads are fantastic. Which ones did you go for the organic Street Sport DMX compound or the sintered Double-H?
I'm highly impressed with EBC pads I've been using on my AT.
Some people told me the stock ones are not so great - I have noticed that I sometimes require a lot of pulling to brake hard. But I will wait until the bike is broken in to make the call whether I need to replace them or not. It's already better than it was in the beginning so I guess the brakes need to be "braked in" too. The EBC brake pads won't go bad - if I don't install them now, I'll install them when the old ones are worn down. They cost the same as the stock ones.
Have any other riders noticed something weird about the brakes? Do they need to warm up in the morning? Maybe I just need to get a feel for them... I practice my emergency braking every day when going into the moo baan...
How many KM on your Versys now Nikster? Yes- new brake pads need to be bedded in before they will give maximum stopping power. Depending on the type of pad it usually takes a fair bit of temperature to get the pads bedded in properly. Just find a big stretch of empty road where you can get going at a good clip (no need for high speed- just make sure there's no one behind you!) and then brake hard until you're almost stopped but DO NOT stop. Brake forcefully but don't brake so hard that your ABS activates. Repeat a few times until the discs are nice and hot and your pads will bed in nicely and give you maximum stopping power. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke is normal when bedding in new pads.
If the pads aren't broken in properly, the pads will not give you 100% stopping power! They will be lousy when cold, may be noisy and may dust like hell.
After the break-in, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
Ride On!
Tony
This is really valuable information for me, so many thanks Tony and Nikster for raising the breaking in breaks issue.
At the risk of being a pain, I have one more question. When I bought my ER6n the first service was at 1000kms. Talking to new Versys owners at the Xcenter a few weeks ago, some said they changed the oil and (filter perhaps) after the first 100kms. Whats best on this as I really want to look after the bike and keep it until I graduate to a Zimmer frame?
The second service for the 6n is stated as 10,000 which seems a long time between oil changes?
At the risk of being a pain, I have one more question. When I bought my ER6n the first service was at 1000kms. Talking to new Versys owners at the Xcenter a few weeks ago, some said they changed the oil and (filter perhaps) after the first 100kms. Whats best on this as I really want to look after the bike and keep it until I graduate to a Zimmer frame?
The second service for the 6n is stated as 10,000 which seems a long time between oil changes?
Thanks Tony, great info!! Will do that today. Will do some braking in 
About the engine break-in: There's two ways, one is to take it easy for the first 1000 km as recommended by manufacturer, the other to break it in hard and then change the oil immediately. Most people I've talked to do the latter. Google it, there's a website that explains it in detail. The short version is: In the first 50 kms or so, put pressure on the engine, rev high, then let go and engine brake, then rev high again, in 1st and 2nd gear if on the road. Need to find a relatively empty road, obviously. Don't lug the engine. Then change the oil and you're done. Ride hard, but stay below redline. Warm up the engine before doing this. And avoid staying at the same rev for any amount of time; it should be up-down-up-down.
Or do what Mr. Kawa dealer told me: Just ride her hard from km 0. These are modern engines, they're just fine if you do that
About the engine break-in: There's two ways, one is to take it easy for the first 1000 km as recommended by manufacturer, the other to break it in hard and then change the oil immediately. Most people I've talked to do the latter. Google it, there's a website that explains it in detail. The short version is: In the first 50 kms or so, put pressure on the engine, rev high, then let go and engine brake, then rev high again, in 1st and 2nd gear if on the road. Need to find a relatively empty road, obviously. Don't lug the engine. Then change the oil and you're done. Ride hard, but stay below redline. Warm up the engine before doing this. And avoid staying at the same rev for any amount of time; it should be up-down-up-down.
Or do what Mr. Kawa dealer told me: Just ride her hard from km 0. These are modern engines, they're just fine if you do that
Cheers,
Second service is NOT 10,000km! Check your service book. The second service is at 6000km.
I'm a firm believer in the hard break-in method, but whether you break-in your bike the hard way or the soft way it's still a good idea to change the oil and filter early because most of the engine break-in occurs at the beginning of an engine's life.
Do you really want all the break-in contaminants circulating through your engine and clogging up your filter for 1000km?
Put it another way- oil and filters are cheap; engines are expensive. Changing your oil and filter early certainly can't hurt and may very well help improve the life of your engine.
Ride On!
Tony :happy5:
ps. "Zimmer frame"?!
:lol-sign: :lol-sign: :lol-sign:
Another point worth mentioning is that some Kawa dealers do not change the filter at the 6000kms service....only the oil. IMHO it is kinda pointless running clean oil through a dirty filter. I had to insist in Phuket.
Picked up my V this morning in Phuket and now half way back to Bkk - very impressed so far, but have to say the brake pads feel like they're made of wood. Went through a bedding in process similar to what Tony described and some improvement, but still think I will change to EBC - used them on my old GPZ900 and ZZR1100 for years and always happy with them - not sure about current compounds though.
I too favour the "hard break in" method (particularly with company cars), but have to admit I've wimped out and taken the gentle route - mainly because it's not overly convenient to do on oil change on the road to Bkk.
Think I'll up the RPM a bit when I get closer to town otherwise I might get run down by a 10 wheeler!
I too favour the "hard break in" method (particularly with company cars), but have to admit I've wimped out and taken the gentle route - mainly because it's not overly convenient to do on oil change on the road to Bkk.
Think I'll up the RPM a bit when I get closer to town otherwise I might get run down by a 10 wheeler!
Getting very close to the 1000K service being due - looking forward to the peace of mind of having the oil changed. The ride back to Bkk from Phuket uneventful if not a little drawn out with the low revs while running in. Once in Bkk the 6000 RPM limit seems like a fairly moot point as it allows for pretty rapid progress around town. I think I'll be content to limit my urges to give it the berries for a few hundred more k's yet.
Given the bike is basically a plaything I will be changing the oil and filter every 3k (or less) and using the best semi or fully synthetic oil I can lay my hands on - cheap insurance in the scheme of things.
From the EBC website:
To bed in brakes with new rotors, undertake this in a practice session and allow 20 medium speed "snubs" at 10 second intervals scrubbing off speed from 90 MPH to 60 MPH followed by 10 snubs taking speed from 110 MPH to 60 MPH again with 10 second intervals. This will avoid rotor pick up. If rotors are pre -conditioned against sintered pads and perfectly flat, bed in time for PADS ONLY can normally be achieved within two warm up laps with 7-10 snubs from 110 MPH to 60 MPH. Bed in time depends on rotor condition, allow longer bed in for even slightest dishing of rotors. If you have previously used carbon based pads you MUST Scratchpad or sand rotors lightly to remove carbon coating.
This is obviously geared towards race bikes - for road bikes they just say take it easy until you are confident in the brake performance.
Given the bike is basically a plaything I will be changing the oil and filter every 3k (or less) and using the best semi or fully synthetic oil I can lay my hands on - cheap insurance in the scheme of things.
From the EBC website:
To bed in brakes with new rotors, undertake this in a practice session and allow 20 medium speed "snubs" at 10 second intervals scrubbing off speed from 90 MPH to 60 MPH followed by 10 snubs taking speed from 110 MPH to 60 MPH again with 10 second intervals. This will avoid rotor pick up. If rotors are pre -conditioned against sintered pads and perfectly flat, bed in time for PADS ONLY can normally be achieved within two warm up laps with 7-10 snubs from 110 MPH to 60 MPH. Bed in time depends on rotor condition, allow longer bed in for even slightest dishing of rotors. If you have previously used carbon based pads you MUST Scratchpad or sand rotors lightly to remove carbon coating.
This is obviously geared towards race bikes - for road bikes they just say take it easy until you are confident in the brake performance.
To all the guys who have written about their reasons for buying a Versys and also those who wrote about riding their new Versys, thanks a lot. I have just ordered my Versys based on what you've written, a recommendation from John Gooding whose opinion I trust implicitly, and my own test ride on a new 650 Ninja which I enjoyed but decided not to buy because I felt it wasn't comfortable enough for a long trip. I'm glad I waited, the new seat on the Versys is much better and the riding position more suited to touring. This bike for me is a no-brainer as it's reasonably priced, will do everything I need fairly well and I have a dealership less than 10km from my house for support.
A few guys have written about bags, that's the obvious next step for multi-day riding. I've searched bulletin boards and come up with a recommendation for HT or Happy Trails supports as being "very strong". I found their website for Versys.. http://www.happy-trail.com/Departments/ ... 06-09.aspx and have written to them regarding suitability for 2010-2011 model year. I'll research it some more and will decide what to do, but meantime has anyone else fitted supports and bags to a new bike? Thanks, Dave
A few guys have written about bags, that's the obvious next step for multi-day riding. I've searched bulletin boards and come up with a recommendation for HT or Happy Trails supports as being "very strong". I found their website for Versys.. http://www.happy-trail.com/Departments/ ... 06-09.aspx and have written to them regarding suitability for 2010-2011 model year. I'll research it some more and will decide what to do, but meantime has anyone else fitted supports and bags to a new bike? Thanks, Dave
I am interested in luggage solutions also.
I have been searching for a month now, I like the look and sensibility of the GIVI hard case option (side pannier) but as with all the others I have seen, the bracketing is not exactly pleasing to the eye when the panniers are off the bike. I am sort of heading for a soft bag option with a less substantial bracket so i can leave it on (living in BKK i def dont need side mounted hard cases on around town because of the traffic issues).
Anyone seen any decent soft bags that are side panniers?
I have been searching for a month now, I like the look and sensibility of the GIVI hard case option (side pannier) but as with all the others I have seen, the bracketing is not exactly pleasing to the eye when the panniers are off the bike. I am sort of heading for a soft bag option with a less substantial bracket so i can leave it on (living in BKK i def dont need side mounted hard cases on around town because of the traffic issues).
Anyone seen any decent soft bags that are side panniers?
When I bought my Ninja 650R from the Udon Kawasaki dealer, he was happy to supply and fit a Givi rack for a topbox, he also had the racks for the side cases in stock. I am sure the Chiang Mai dealer will be happy to do the same.