Highlights: 3 weeks in Australia for Phillip Island MotoGP. 2024

[DavidFL]

Chiang Mai On The Way Out.

For the last two years, I have been supposed to go to Australia with my brother for a ride to Phillip Island MotoGP.
In 2022, he bought a MotoGuzzi V85 TT for me to ride, but I had a nasty accident that year and could not make the trip.

In 2023, I had a carpal tunnel issue that required surgery & was unsure if I would be able to handle the 1,0000 km ride.
So we postponed again until 2024 and coordinated with my brother in the UK to go "home" to allow all four brothers to hook up in Oz again.
With one brother in the UK, one in Thailand, and two down under, we don't all get together often.
2024 was all go then.

The best option for flying into Adelaide from Thailand was Chiang Mai—KL—Adelaide with Malaysian Airlines, with baggage checked straight through from Chiang Mai.

KL International Terminal.

Nervous about missing this attempt to get to Oz and ride to PI with my brother for MotoGP, I took a leisurely ride down R1 to Phayao, then 120 to avoid the flooding issues and muddy roads on R118.

A lovely day by the lake in Phayao.

There are #46 fans in Phayao.

In Chiang Mai, my favourite hotel, the Panerai, was closed due to the flood, so the Top North was the place to be.

The Top North is my second favourite hotel in Cnx. It is excellent for its location, pool, and undercover parking.

A few nights in Chiang Mai saw me catch up with a few friends.

Jurgen, who has posted hundreds of photos and a beautiful trip report on this forum, was at the top of the list.

The Kafe is still my favourite hangout in Chiang Mai.

The sensational Ms Yui, ex-Mr Mechanic, was in town on holiday from France, where she now lives.
'

Another entertaining night was at Winstons Pub in Huay Kaew.

I met several expat mates at Winston's and noted that it is a top-run expat pub with good live music, friendly service, a pool table & multiple TVs for whatever sport you wish to watch.

Sunday was MotoGP day, and the UN Irish Pub is still the best pub in the North to watch the races!

The customers watching MotoGP at the UN Irish are serious fans of the sport and watch the race closely without any great disturbing noise or silly comments.
The final and deciding race is this weekend, and I genuinely wish I was watching it at the UN Irish instead of in Chiang Khong, where I will be.

While in Chiang Mai, I made a pit stop at Helmet2Home to check up on their business and flood damage.

Bags of flood-damaged items on the pavement.

Suchee claims the damage was minimal, as the waters were not deep, and they had moved all the expensive stock upstairs.
Some cardboard boxes that he had stacked up toppled over in the water.

Rumpair Pub
Of note in Chiang Mai is the site of the old Bier Stube, which is now a flash new cocktail pub with hooch from Phrae.

A significant contrast to the old Bier Stube, it certainly lifts the standard and is a delightful spot for people-watching in the evening.


More to come....Australia.

 

[DavidFL]

The MotoGuzzi v85TT

As mentioned earlier, my brother bought the Guzzi so we could ride together to PI for MotoGP.

The colours and style of the V85 TT appealed to me, but I was unsure how I would ride that Vee with the cylinders sticking out the side like that. However I was perfectly comfortable and relaxed when I rode it for the first time - it was the easiest bike I had ever ridden.
There were zero top-heavy weight issues, and it was easier than the Vstrom 650. I could not believe it—I was stunned!

Recently, I've been thinking that in a year or two, I will give up on the Vstrom and bigger bikes, as I've lost my upper body strength, and bigger bikes are getting to be a handful to ride and manoeuvre around. But not with the V85TT. It is just too easy to ride and manoeuvre. I would take one of them over the Vstrom 650 any day to keep riding forever.

The bike's fuel economy ran from 21.5 - 24 km a litre. Coupled with 23-litre fuel, you can get 500 km on a tank.

An item I would improve on the bike would be the screen on the front - it is not quite high enough for someone of my height. My brother who is considerably shorter has no issues with it, but I would add a small spoiler.

With that shaft drive and fabulous light easy handling the bike would be a total winner for me in North Thailand or Laos!

More to come the ride & playing tourist..

 

[DavidFL]

Gawler and the start in South Australia.
My brother and I share similar hobbies and interests.
Motorcycles, photography, nature, trees, culture, and history make travelling together easy.
The ride to PI was to be leisurely, taking winding back roads through beautiful countryside and old historical towns.
We both appreciate stopping in rural cafes for a break and admiring the many historical buildings in rural Australia. There are many, plus the upcountry people are always friendly, with a "g'day and where ya heading to."

Gawler, where two brothers live, is often called the “Gateway to the Barossa Valley. " It is a major wine-producing region and is a key centre for local businesses and services. It is a magnificent area for riding, with rolling hills and stunning landscapes. It is renowned for natural beauty and rich history.

Gawler​

The beauty of Gawler lies in its blend of country charm and proximity to nature, while still being close to the bustling city of Adelaide. Some highlights of the area include:

• Historic Architecture: Gawler is one of South Australia's oldest towns, founded in 1839. The town’s heritage buildings, such as the Gawler Town Hall and the Anglican Church, reflect its colonial past and offer a glimpse into the region's history.

• Natural Beauty: Gawler is set amidst beautiful countryside with rolling hills, vineyards, and farmland. The Light River surrounds the town and offers access to scenic walking trails, parks, and reserves.

• Proximity to the Barossa Valley: Gawler is the gateway to the famous Barossa Valley wine region, making it ideal for visitors looking to explore the nearby vineyards while enjoying the slower pace and relaxed atmosphere of a historic town.

Barossa Valley​

The Barossa Valley is one of Australia’s most celebrated wine regions, known for its breathtaking landscapes and world-class vineyards. Its beauty combines lush, fertile land, rolling hills, and an enduring sense of tradition. Some of the standout features of the Barossa Valley include:

• Vineyard Landscapes: The Barossa is characterized by its lush vineyards stretching across undulating hills. The vines' changing colors throughout the seasons—from the deep greens of spring and summer to the rich reds and oranges of autumn—create a picturesque landscape year-round.
• World-Class Wineries: As a premier wine region, the Barossa Valley boasts some of the most iconic wineries in Australia. The rolling vineyards are interspersed with stately cellar doors, offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Many wineries are housed in historic buildings, adding to the area's charm.
• Cultural Heritage: The Barossa Valley is also known for its strong German influence, reflected in the region’s food, wine, and architecture. Quaint towns like Tanunda and Lyndoch feature traditional German-style buildings, and a rich food and wine festival tradition celebrates this unique cultural blend.
• Flora and Fauna: The valley is home to a diverse range of wildlife and native plants, contributing to its natural beauty. Wildlife enthusiasts can enjoy bird watching or hiking through the surrounding conservation areas, which are teeming with local flora and fauna.
• Historic Towns: In addition to the wineries, towns like Tanunda, Nuriootpa, and Angaston add to the area's beauty with their historic streets, beautiful public gardens, and old-world charm.

Out for a 100 km test ride, before starting out for Phillip Island.

To be continued.

 

[DavidFL]

The Ride: Day 1 Playing Tourist. Part 1.

Packing up, ready to roll.

I don't have side boxes on the Vstrom in Thailand, as there's no need for that much luggage.
However, in Oz, there was a need to share luggage with three of us riding on the two bikes.

The happy riders.

My brother & sister-in-law.

Ready to roll.

Light showers prevailed the day we set off, but after an hour, it was time to take off the waterproof pants for my brother & his missus.

I had my Assero tropical pants on and never needed to wear the rain pants the entire time I was riding in Australia. Assero tropical pants really are an awesome piece of kit; the material's rain-repellant properties work extremely well in light—to medium rain, and then they dry out super-fast.
If you don't have a pair for riding in Thailand, get a pair. They are incredible value for money. James @ Assero recently told me he has 20 more pairs in his stock.

Tropical Riding Pants - Assero Gear

I believe there are a few pairs of these pants left & inbound for Thailand. https://asserogear.com/ Jimboy will provide the details.

www.gt-rider.com

Mannum

Two hours after stands up, Mannum was our first break for a fast brekky and coffee on the road.

I enjoyed passing through these rural upcountry towns and the little cafes on the trip.
There are some real gems out there.

Rustic Country Cafe · 89-91 Randell St, Mannum SA 5238, Australia

âââââ · Fish and chips takeaway

maps.app.goo.gl

I ensured I got my fill of farang croissants, cakes & pies on this trip.

Brother Murray had planned the route via Mannum so that I could experience the ferry crossing over the Murray River.
Mannum is a historic town on the Murray River in South Australia. It played a significant role in the paddle steamer era, which was central to the region's economic and social development.

Mannum is still famous for houseboat cruises on the Murray River.

Origins of Paddle Steamers on the Murray​

• The paddle steamer era began in the 1850s when the Murray-Darling River system became a vital transportation route for goods and passengers.
• In 1853, Captain Francis Cadell successfully navigated a steamer up the Murray River, proving its viability for river transport.

Mannum's Role

• Founding of Mannum: The town of Mannum was established in 1854, primarily as a river port to support the growing trade and transport on the Murray River.
• William Randell: A key figure in Mannum's paddle steamer history, William Randell built and launched the PS Mary Ann in 1853. It was the first paddle steamer on the Murray River, built to transport goods like wool and grain from inland regions to port cities.
• Steamboat Building Hub: Mannum became a center for building and maintaining paddle steamers, thanks to its strategic location on the river and the entrepreneurial spirit of pioneers like Randell.

Paddle Steamers and Trade​

• Paddle steamers transported agricultural products, including wool, wheat, and other goods, from remote areas to markets.
• They also carried passengers, linking isolated river communities with larger urban centers.
• During the late 19th century, Mannum’s port bustled with activity, handling goods and providing services to riverboats.

Decline of the Paddle Steamer Era​

• The introduction of railways and improved road networks in the late 19th and early 20th centuries diminished the importance of river transport.
• Many paddle steamers fell out of use, and Mannum’s prominence as a river port declined.

Legacy and Tourism​

• Today, Mannum celebrates its paddle steamer heritage through museums, preserved steamers, and festivals:
  • PS Marion: Built in 1897, this restored paddle steamer is a key attraction in Mannum. Operated by the Mannum Dock Museum, it offers cruises and serves as a floating museum.
  • Mannum Dock Museum: Showcases the history of river transport and paddle steamers, preserving artifacts and stories from the era.
  • Events: Mannum hosts river festivals and heritage days, attracting visitors interested in the town’s rich history.

Mannum's association with paddle steamers is a testament to its historical significance as a hub of river trade and its ongoing efforts to preserve and celebrate this unique aspect of Australian heritage.

Waiting for the car ferry to cross the river.

Mannum Ferry · Murray River, Mannum SA 5238, Australia

Ferry service

maps.app.goo.gl

Across the river & moving on through the wheatbelt, 1.5 hours later was our next stop to admire the Coonalpyn Silo Murals.

These 30-metre-high grain silos were the first grain silos to be painted in South Australia and are the seventh silos to be included in the Australian Silo Art Trail Collection. They were completed in March 2017.

The silos were painted by the world-renowned large-scale mural artist Guido van Helten, who was given full creative license to create what he believed would best reflect community spirit, culture, and local identity.

The murals took 200 paint cans to create.
Using photographs as reference, the artist first drew a giant grid onto the face of the five silos and then sprayed paint to create the designs.

The murals depict a magnificent tribute to five Coonalpyn Primary School children, whose images will now live on in the history of the town forever. The lucky five were six-year-olds Kiarah Leske and Blake Thompson, five-year-olds Macey Jacobs and Reef Gregor and nine-year-old Ciara Johnson. The children are in various poses with two children looking to be actually drawing onto the face of two of the silos.

The aim was simple: rural renewal through the arts.
It also included sponsorship from local businesses and individuals, which assisted in the incredible marketing campaign.

During the month-long creation of the mural, Coonalpyn became the most-photographed regional town in South Australia, and possibly even Australia. The mural attracted the attention of media locally, nationally and internationally, with the BBC and CNN also both reporting on the project.

Coonalpyn Silo Mural · 23-25 Poyntz Terrace, Coonalpyn SA 5265, Australia

âââââ · Tourist attraction

maps.app.goo.gl

To be continued.

 

[DavidFL]

The Ride: Day 1 Playing Tourist. Part 2.
1.5 hrs after the arty silos, lunch break was in the town of Keith at the Henry & Rose Cafe.

A little charmer of a cafe.

Henry & Rose · 15 Heritage St, Keith SA 5267, Australia

âââââ · Cafe

maps.app.goo.gl

With indoor & outdoor seating we chose to chill out in the open air outside.

Across the street from the Henry & Rose was the Andy Caldecott Memorial.

Andy was a local boy from Keith and an exceptional off-road rider.
He was a four-time winner of the Australian Safari and also competed in the Paris-Dakar, starting as a privateer in 2004.

In 2006 he was called up to race for KTM, won the third stage, but later died from a neck injury sustained in a crash during the ninth stage, 250 km into the 599 km special stage from Nouakchott to Kiffa.

36°05'44.2"S 140°21'08.4"E · -36.095611, 140.352333

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[DavidFL]

The Ride: Day 1 Playing Tourist. Part 3.
Moving on from Keith, our destination for the night is the town of Eden Hope.

2 hrs riding from Keith, a welcome pit stop for my brother & his missus was in Naracoorte.

Naracoorte Town Square · Smith Street and, Jones St, Naracoorte SA 5271, Australia

âââââ · Park

maps.app.goo.gl

The local park had some nice ovine and avian artwork on the public toilets.

Back on the road, observing the speed limits & vineyards.

The rural scenery is magnificent through the forests of eucalypts.

Bordertown is on the state border of South Australia and Victoria.

To be continued.

 

[DavidFL]

The Ride: Day 1 Playing Tourist. Part 4. Eden Hope.

55 km from Keith, it was time for a cricketing history lesson, much to my surprise.
The town of Eden Hope & cricket ground for the first Australian International Cricket Team to play overseas in England.

Edenhope, a small town in Western Victoria, holds a significant place in Australian cricket history as the starting point for many of the first Australian Aboriginal cricket team players which toured England in 1868. This team is celebrated as a pioneering side that predated the first official Australian Test team by over a decade.

Edenhope’s Role​

• Pastoral Connections: The Aboriginal players were workers on pastoral stations in the Edenhope area. British settlers introduced them to cricket and encouraged them to learn and play the sport.
• Talent Development: Local Aboriginal men, particularly from the Wotjobaluk, Jardwadjali, Gunditjmara, and other Indigenous groups, showed remarkable skill in cricket. Their athleticism and natural abilities quickly made them proficient players.
• Local Matches: Matches between Aboriginal cricketers and local settlers became popular, and the Indigenous players began to attract attention for their cricketing talent.

Key Figures from Edenhope​

Several members of the 1868 Aboriginal cricket team had ties to Edenhope:

1. Johnny Mullagh (Unaarrimin): The most prominent figure, Mullagh, was born near Harrow, not far from Edenhope. He became the star all-rounder of the 1868 team.
2. Mosquito (Grongarrong) and Twopenny (Murrumgunarriman): Other key players who emerged from the local Aboriginal cricketing community.

Legacy in Edenhope​

• Annual Johnny Mullagh Memorial Match: Edenhope celebrates its connection to the 1868 team through an annual cricket match honoring Johnny Mullagh and his teammates.
• Museum and Monuments: The Harrow Discovery Centre in Harrow, near Edenhope, features exhibitions on the 1868 team, preserving and sharing the story of these cricketing pioneers.
• Connection to Reconciliation: The legacy of the 1868 Aboriginal cricket team has become a symbol of reconciliation and recognition of Indigenous contributions to Australian sports and culture.

The story of the Aboriginal cricket team and its ties to Edenhope highlights the talent, determination, and cultural significance of these early athletes, whose journey paved the way for future generations of Indigenous cricketers.

The first Australian Aboriginal cricket team's match in England was not a Test match in the modern sense, as Test cricket was formally established in 1877. However, the Aboriginal team’s 1868 tour of England marked the first international cricket tour by an Australian team. This tour predates Australia’s first official Test match (1877) by almost a decade.

Key Details of the Tour:​

• Date: The Aboriginal team arrived in England in May 1868 and played their first match on June 1, 1868, against a local side, Surrey, at The Oval.
• Team Composition: The team consisted of 13 Aboriginal players, including notable figures such as Johnny Mullagh (Unaarrimin), Twopenny (Murrumgunarriman), and Mosquito (Grongarrong).
• Matches Played: The team played 47 matches across England against various county and club sides, achieving remarkable success despite challenging conditions.

The First Match (Surrey vs. Aboriginal XI):​

• The Aboriginal XI played their opening match at The Oval against a Surrey XI led by George Griffith.
• Despite losing the game, the Aboriginal players impressed spectators with their skill, athleticism, and sportsmanship.

Key Players:​

• Johnny Mullagh (Unaarrimin): The standout player of the tour, Mullagh was a phenomenal all-rounder who scored 1,698 runs and took 245 wickets during the tour.
• Dick-a-Dick (Gundawarra): Renowned for his extraordinary fielding skills and entertaining displays of traditional Aboriginal spear and shield combat.

Significance:​

• The 1868 tour was groundbreaking as it showcased the talent of Aboriginal cricketers at a time of significant racial discrimination and cultural suppression.
• It is not classified as a "Test match" because the concept of Test cricket did not exist in 1868. Still, the tour is considered a historic milestone in cricket and Australian sports history.

Challenges Faced:​

• The players endured harsh travel conditions, limited financial compensation, and racial prejudice during their time in England.
• One player, King Cole (Bripumyarrimin), tragically died during the tour, highlighting the difficulties they faced.

Although not a Test match in the official sense, the Aboriginal cricket team’s tour of England in 1868 represents an extraordinary chapter in cricket history and a powerful symbol of Indigenous achievement and resilience.

The players of the first Aboriginal Australian cricket team that toured England in 1868 were remarkable individuals with unique talents, personalities, and contributions to the sport. Below is a description of their characteristics and roles:

Key Characters​

1. Johnny Mullagh (Unaarrimin)
   • Role: All-rounder
   • Traits: Skilled and composed, Johnny Mullagh was the team's star. He excelled as a batsman and bowler, amassing 1,698 runs and taking 245 wickets during the tour. He was disciplined and a natural leader on the field, setting the standard for others.
2. Murrumgunarriman (Twopenny)
   • Role: Fast Bowler
   • Traits: Known for his pace and aggression, Twopenny was one of the team's most feared bowlers. His ability to intimidate batsmen with his bowling style made him a vital asset.
3. Grongarrong (Mosquito)
   • Role: All-rounder
   • Traits: Energetic and versatile, Mosquito contributed significantly with both bat and ball. His agility in the field and adaptability in different situations were highly valued.
4. Dick-a-Dick (Gundawarra)
   • Role: Fielder
   • Traits: Famous for his extraordinary reflexes, he often entertained crowds with demonstrations of deflecting cricket balls using a traditional Aboriginal shield. His charisma made him a favourite among spectators.
5. Bripumyarrimin (King Cole)
   • Role: Batsman
   • Traits: Gentle and steadfast, King Cole was a steady batsman but tragically fell ill during the tour and passed away, highlighting the physical toll of the journey.
6. Yellanach (Johnny Cuzens)
   • Role: Bowler
   • Traits: Known for his accuracy and ability to maintain pressure on the batsmen, Johnny Cuzens was a reliable bowler for the team.
7. Bullchanach (Charlie Dumas or Tiger)
   • Role: Batsman
   • Traits: Nicknamed "Tiger," he was known for his fearless and aggressive batting style, often taking risks to score runs quickly.
8. Jallachinnemong (Jimmy Mosquito)
   • Role: Batsman and Fielder
   • Traits: Known for his quick footwork and sharp fielding skills, Jimmy Mosquito played an essential role in the team’s defensive efforts.
9. Bonnin (Tiger)
   • Role: All-rounder
   • Traits: He was an enthusiastic and hardworking player who contributed in multiple areas of the game, showcasing versatility.
10. Zellanach (Johnny Mullagh's Brother)
    • Role: Batsman
    • Traits: A steady and reliable batsman who complimented the attacking players with his consistent performances.
11. Brimbunyah (Red Cap)
    • Role: Bowler
    • Traits: Known for his cunning and deceptive bowling, Red Cap could adapt to different pitches and conditions.
12. Ballrinjarrimin (Harry Rose)
    • Role: Bowler
    • Traits: Rose was a solid performer, and he was known for his determination and teamwork.
13. Peter (Surname Unknown)
    • Role: All-rounder
    • Traits: His versatility allowed him to step in as needed, though details about him are less documented.

​

Legacy:​

• The 1868 Aboriginal cricket team is celebrated as pioneers in Australian cricket and sport.
• Their story has been commemorated in museums, documentaries, and events, including the introduction of the Mullagh Medal, named after Johnny Mullagh, for the best player in the Boxing Day Test.

Edenhope College · 40-48 Lake St, Edenhope VIC 3318, Australia

âââââ · High school

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Gregthemagnificent]

The MotoGuzzi v85TT

As mentioned earlier, my brother bought the Guzzi so we could ride together to PI for MotoGP.

View attachment 157602

The colours and style of the V85 TT appealed to me, but I was unsure how I would ride that Vee with the cylinders sticking out the side like that. However I was perfectly comfortable and relaxed when I rode it for the first time - it was the easiest bike I had ever ridden.
There were zero top-heavy weight issues, and it was easier than the Vstrom 650. I could not believe it—I was stunned!

View attachment 157603

Recently, I've been thinking that in a year or two, I will give up on the Vstrom and bigger bikes, as I've lost my upper body strength, and bigger bikes are getting to be a handful to ride and manoeuvre around. But not with the V85TT. It is just too easy to ride and manoeuvre. I would take one of them over the Vstrom 650 any day to keep riding forever.

View attachment 157604

The bike's fuel economy ran from 21.5 - 24 km a litre. Coupled with 23-litre fuel, you can get 500 km on a tank.

View attachment 157601

An item I would improve on the bike would be the screen on the front - it is not quite high enough for someone of my height. My brother who is considerably shorter has no issues with it, but I would add a small spoiler.

View attachment 157605

View attachment 157606

With that shaft drive and fabulous light easy handling the bike would be a total winner for me in North Thailand or Laos!

View attachment 157607

More to come the ride & playing tourist..

 

[DavidFL]

The Ride: Day 1 Playing Tourist. Part 5. Eden Hope.

Eden Hope and an exciting night - not!

The first night on the road in a tiny town with limited accommodation options.

The Eden Hope Motor Inn and Restaurant was our booked place of stay.

At 3,000 baht a night, I thought the room was no better than my regular 500 baht a night room at the Panerai Hotel in Chiang Mai.

Brother Murray has stayed here a couple of times & likes the place because of the onsite Indian restaurant.
We checked in and agreed to meet at 7 pm for dinner out the front in the Indian restaurant for a bit of a noche-up.
Sadly, the cook was off on the night, and the restaurant was closed.

Downtown to Eden Hope City, we rode looking for food.

The Liquor Legends Lake Wallace Pub was open & looked inviting for a hearty pub meal.

Liquor Legends - Lake Wallace Hotel · 46 Elizabeth St, Edenhope VIC 3318, Australia

âââââ · Bar

maps.app.goo.gl

But nope. At 7 p.m., the kitchen had just closed. I'm sorry, mate. There is no food at the inn tonight.

The publican was friendly enough & suggested we quickly go across the street to the local diner for a bite to eat, and the last place open in town before it closes at 8 pm.

Edenhope Dine Inn · 53 Elizabeth St, Edenhope VIC 3318, Australia

âââââ · Restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

An alternative noche-up at at the Eden Hope Diner.

A bacon, cheese & steak sandwich.

A steak sandwich for the brother.

Thankful for getting a bite to eat, we decided to pop back to the Liquor Legends Lake Wallace Pub and have a drink to show our appreciation for ushering out the door quickly to the diner across the road and actually getting something to eat before the little town closed down for the night.
Back in through the doors of the Lake Wallace Pub & the publican is just doing the cash & closing up for the night.
It's just past 8 p.m. What the hell I thought? No pubs close at 8 Pm in Thailand.
"Any chance of a quick drink for us to TQ for the meal tip off?"
"Well, I've closed all the taps and locked up the bar."
How about a glass of house red and a ginger beer to be easy.?
Ok, you got it.

We sat & watched some motorsports on the TV.

All a bit sad I thought, in comparison to a night-up country in North Thailand.

The next morning a nice cuppa to be had in my 3000 baht room.

And on the road we soon were....

 

[Gregthemagnificent]

The Guzzi is a really nice bike.

 

[DavidFL]

The Guzzi is a really nice bike.

Yes, it is a fantastic bike. So incredibly easy to ride.
I'd love to have one for North Thailand, but the price, parts, and service are serious obstacles.