Escape to Hanoi & Vietnam for Songkran 2023

[DavidFL]

Weary of the heat, smoke & water throwing, the old GTR fellah jumped on a plane& took a nice break in Vietnam for 10 days to avoid the deadly Songkran water throwing chaos.
The master plan with a research assistant in tow was
3 days Hanoi
1 night Halong Bay
1 night Hanoi
3 nights Sapa
2 nights Hanoi & back to Chiang Khong once the mayhem was over.

The original plan was to fly Chiang Rai - Bkk - Hanoi, but the travel time was a bit much with long stop overs in Bkk both ways.
So the solution was Chiang Mai- Hanoi direct 1.5 hrs & only 3000 baht one way with good ol Air Asia.

I've been to Vietnam by bike from Chiang Mai in 2010,

Chiang Mai - Hanoi Back Part 1

To test the waters: A "Genghis Khan" Master Plan to Conquer North Vietnam in a week from Chiang Mai. DATES: Sunday 14 March – Friday 2nd April 2010 19 nights 20 days (for David Unk) THE RIDERS Armin Schoch: BMW F650 Dakar Dave “Silverhawk” Early: Suzuki DR650 David “FL” Unkovich: Honda...

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but wouldn't do it again, as it is too easy, cheap to fly & rent or whatever you want to do in Vietnam.

A few pics & info

The way to go

One small bag checked in.

Check in is becoming a bit more annoying if you get caught with a few China flights departing at the same time, & the queue for the security check in & immigration was as long as I've ever seen queued at Chiang Mai Inter. In fact from boarding pass & baggage check in to immigration clearance was 50 minutes!

Good afternoon Noi Bai International

The duty free winner at Noi Bai was 1 litre of Monkey Shoulder for 1300 baht.

No Jamesons, because I thought the ol Monkey was a total winner at that price.

More to come..

 

[DavidFL]

The place of stay in Hanoi was the Centre Point Hotel.

A comfy little hotel, very conveniently located in the old quarter, just a few hundred metres off the lake & the "Main intersection."

The hotel is excellent value for money & Ive stayed their multiple times now.
It never fails to deliver for service & friendliness.

Hanoi Hotel Center Point · 25 Ng. Hàng Hành, str, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam

★★★★☆ · Hotel

goo.gl

Hanoi Accommodation

My place of stay inn August 2011 the Hong Ngoc 2 Hotel in the old quarter US$42 a night. Reception The room The bathroom with a nice tub & I soaked in it daily. I have previously stayed at the Hong Ngoc 1 but found the staff at the Hong Ngoc 2 considerably more friendly than...

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The trick too is to get room #8 at the back with a view over the lake.

The 8th floor is just under the roof top restaurant that has a stunning view & a fabulous breakfast.

Walk up a few steps & there you are with an outstanding view.

After 9 days in Vietnam, the research assistant & I both agreed that the Centre Point brekky was the best of the 3 places we spent a night in!
Other places may have a bigger buffet selection, but none of the food was as tasty at the Centre Point's brekky!
The CP hotel is located in Hàng Hành street & it is a gem of a quiet soi, just off the main roads& lake.
Since my last visit the power lines are now underground & the beauty of the magnificent old trees is truly fantastic.

There are cool little restaurants, coffee shops, massage shops, & bars in the same little street.

Yummy coffee

Fresh & tasty Viet food

I was sorry not to have a VR46 shirt on, or I would have had a few drinks there.

And yes the research assistant & I both had nice massages right next to the hotel!

 

[Wayne66]

What did you think of the Monkey Shoulder? Ive had a bottle and didn‘t think it as too bad

 

[DavidFL]

Highlights of a couple of nights in Hanoi were meeting up with Hung (Flamingo Travel) & family for dinner.

Flamingo Travel

Flamingo Travel, Hanoi, Vietnam. 1,469 likes · 1 talking about this · 123 were here. Hanoi Main Office: 66 Dao Duy Tu Str, Hoan Kiem, Hà Nội HCMC Branch Office: 30a Do Quang Dau, Pham Ngu Lao, Ward,...

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Like most motorcycle rental companies in the region, Hung says the 2022-2023 high season was one of the best ever.
Ge now has 200 bikes & needs more.
He misses the Kawasaki KLX250 as it was bullet proof & had spare parts availability.
The new model from Indonesia is not as good & parts are a nuisance.
The Honda CRF is a pain because of the poor clutch.

We also had a few nice bevvies with Chris McBride at his new place.

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[DavidFL]

What did you think of the Monkey Shoulder? Ive had a bottle and didn‘t think it as too bad

A damn nice drop & easy to drink.
Better than Jamesons, but also more pricey.

 

[DavidFL]

Another major attract in Hanoi is the traffic & the famous Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square.

As crazy as it seems, you hardly see any accidents, & in 10 days we never saw one.
The trick being, as all despatch riders know, is look for the space and use it.

If there's something in the way, either stop or go around it, don't try to bulldoze your way though.

The little lady / research assistant was totally astounded, how any of this was possible, and especially the lack of traffic lights.

A favourite eating spot we used was on the footpath, both sides of one little street off that main intersection.

Long Vi Dung - Nom Thit Bo Kho · 23 P. Há» Hoà n Kiếm, Hà ng Trá»ng, Hoà n Kiếm, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Restaurant

goo.gl

It is a magic spot to hang out with the locals, eat cheap food, drink beer and watch the Viet world go by in slow mo.

Walking the crowded little streets, there are some really interesting shops along the way.

The best value for money item for shopping is shoes

The little lady / research assistant commented it was easy to recognize the Thai people, and there were a lot, because they were mainly wearing masks, & two, the multiple shopping bags they carried. And I agreed.

 

[Conemeister]

View attachment 151230

Yummy coffee


Didn't know Pho Ga came in a can

 

[DavidFL]

Halong Bay was the first stop out of Hanoi and what a gem of an amazing place it really is.

Halong Bay - World Heritage Site

Halong Bay, 170kms from Hanoi, was made a World Heritage site in 1994. The bay has a 120 kms coastline, & is approximately 1,500 square kilometres with 1,600 islands & islets. These islands form a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. Some of the bigger islands are hollow, with...

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The second trip out there & I really think I would love to do another but for 2 nights.
1 night is a bit rushed with all the activities involved
It starts from a 7.30AM hotel pick up, drive around Hanoi to pick up other guests, then 2.5 hr drive out to Halong bay to join the masses queueing up for their boats.

The organization for this was impressive with scores of minibuses dropping off people at the terminal, & then different boat tour guides gathering all their customers together in one group. It ran like clockwork, yet when you first arrived you thought bloody hell, this a just another football crowd frenzy. But all went smoothly.

On the boat you go, check into your romantic cabin,

Then in no time its lunch. A multiple course meal, of what we thought were all small servings.
There's a 45-minute break after lunch & then you're off on another small tender boat that runs you out to the cave, a kayak spin, & a swim

The cave I have been before & it certainly is impressive, but there are scores, if not hundreds of people lined up walking through the cave.

One group stops for photos & the everyone stops as they cannot get past on the narrow path.

I wont be doing the cave again.

A 40-minute Kayak expedition.

Then it's off to a crowded beach for 40-minute dip, should you fancy testing the waters.

Then back on the boat whilst it chugs around the bay with all the other boats, it is an amazing scene, but you have to wonder how much longer can the environment sustain this level of tourism & remain healthy?

Hạ Long Bay - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

However, I would still love to go back for a 2-nighter & less frenzied series of activities.

Should you go, the smaller the boat the better, the more romantic if you're with the little lady.
After 2 Halong Bay boat trips I think the level of activity was a bit frenzied, right from the 7.30AM hotel pickup, boat, lunch, cave, kayak, no real time to chill out for a hours. If I went a 3rd time I want a more relaxed easy going cruise, probably 2 lazy days.

 

[DavidFL]

Sapa was the next stop after Halong Bay, but getting there involves a bit of messing around.
From Halong Bay it's another 2.5 hrs bus trip back to Hanoi city, with an arrival time of 3.30pm in Hanoi.
The Hanoi - Sapa master plan this trip was to try the overnight express train from Hanoi.
My previous trips to Sapa have been by taxi & minibus in the daytime, but the travel agent friend insisted it was time I took the train for the experience & save money on a hotel room.
The "only" issue is the train leaves at 10.30pm, so you have 6-8 hrs to kill in Hanoi.
To kill time we hung out in the lanes of the old city near the hotel.
Coffee, food, a massage & a drink were the order of the afternoon.

Don't you just love this thick Viet coffee too! I do.

I forgot my VR46 shirt for this cocktail bar but next trip....

Arrival time at the railway station was1.25 hrs before departure. A tad early some of you might say. Getting out tickets booked for train was stressful & amusing. They had none in our names, nope zilch. WTF I thought. Eventually I had no option but to ring the agent & she spoke to the counter staff. Simple. You're at the wrong booth, go to the adjoining once a metre away. Problem, tickets there waiting as booked. 55. Oops.
Then there was almost an hour wait on the platform, before you were allowed to board the train 15 minutes before, then on the dot of 10.30PM. choo choo away we go. Woo-hoo.

The sneaky old GTR fellah booked a private cabin for the two of us.
It was cosy & you got 2 free beers, some bananas & peanuts to enjoy the night with.

The gf was impressed, a new experience, & it was pretty new for me, not having been on a train for 20 years at a guess.
However, if I was to go again, I would try to ensure I got a cabin mid carriage and not at the end straight over the axle & bogie link, because you heard and felt every coupling & pull of the bogie all night as the train sped up, braked, slowed down & sped up again = little sleep.
Arrival time at Lao Cai station was on time at 6AM.

 

[DavidFL]

Sapa is a fabulous hill town in the North of Vietnam & is undergoing a massive tourism boom.

Some Sapa history.

Sa Pa was a frontier township and capital of former Sa Pa District in Lào Cai Province in north-west Vietnam. It was first inhabited by people about whom nothing is known. They left in the entire valley hundreds of petroglyphs, mostly composed of lines, which experts think date from the 15th century and represent local cadastres. Then came the highland minorities of the Hmong and Yao. The township is one of the main market ones in the area, where several ethnic minority groups such as Hmong, Dao (Yao), Giáy, Pho Lu, and Tày live. These are the four main minority groups still present in Sa Pa district today. The Kinh (lowland Vietnamese) never originally colonised this highest of Việt Nam's valleys, which lies in the shadow of Phan-Xi-Pǎng (Fansipan, 3143 m), the highest peak in the country. Sa Pa is also home to more than 200 pieces of boulders with ancient engravings. The "Area of Old Carved Stone in Sapa" has been in the UNESCO tentative list since 1997.

It was only when the French debarked in highland Tonkin in the late 1880s that Sa Pa, name of the Hmong hamlet, with "S" is pronounced almost as hard as "Ch" in French, "Sh" in English, "S" in standard Vietnamese, so Chapa as the French called it, began to appear on the national map. Near to the now Sa Pa townlet is "Sa Pả commune", which shows the origin in Hmong language of the location name.

In the following decade, the future site of Sa Pa township started to see military parties as well as missionaries from the Société des Missions Etrangères de Paris (MEP) visit. The French military marched from the Red River Delta into the northern mountainous regions as part of Tonkin's ‘pacification’. In 1894-96 the border between China and Tonkin was formally agreed upon and the Sa Pa area, just to the south of this frontier, was placed under French authority. From 1891 the entire Lào Cai region, including Sa Pa, came under direct colonial military administration so as to curtail banditry and political resistance on the sensitive northern frontier.

The first permanent French civilian resident arrived in Sa Pa in 1909. With its attractive continental climate, health authorities believed the site had potential. By 1912 a military sanatorium for ailing officers had been erected along with a fully fledged military garrison. Then, from the 1920s onwards, several wealthy professionals with enough financial capital also had a number of private villas built in the vicinity.

At the end of the Second World War a long period of hostilities began in Tonkin that was to last until 1954. In the process, nearly all of the 200 or so colonial buildings in or around Sa Pa were destroyed, either by Việt Minh sympathisers in the late 1940s, or, in the early 1950s by French air raids. The vast majority of the Viet population fled for their lives, and the former township entered a prolonged sleep.

In the early 1960s, thanks to the New Economic Zones migration scheme set up by the new Socialist regime, new inhabitants from the lowlands started to migrate to the region.

The short 1979 occupation of the northern border region by Chinese troops had little impact on Sa Pa town, but did force the Kinh (lowland Vietnamese) population out for a month.

In 1993 the last obstacle to Sa Pa's full rebirth as a prominent holiday destination was lifted as the decision was made to open the door fully to international tourism. Sa Pa was back on the tourist trail again, this time for a newly emerging local elite tourist crowd, as well as international tourists.

Sa Pa is now in full economic boom, mainly from the thousands of tourists who come every year to walk the hundreds of miles of trekking trails between and around the villages of Dao villages of Ta Van and Ta Phin.

In 2006, the Chairman of The People's Committee of Sa Pa Province was elected to The Communist Party Central Committee as the youngest ever member (born in 1973).

Source: Wikipedia.

With an early arrival time in Sapa you need to wait for check in at your hotel, officially 2pm, but after we crashed out in the lobby lounge
for a snooze we were thankfully given a room at 11AM.
The place of stay this time was the Hotel De Sapa

Hotedesapa · Sapa, 010 Mường Hoa, TT. Sa Pa, Sa Pa, Lào Cai, Vietnam

★★★★★ · Resort hotel

goo.gl

The Hotel De Sapa was my 3rd choice option for Sapa.
First option was the Holiday Sapa, which I've stayed in twice, but which is now the expensive

DeLaSol Sapa Hotel · 16 Đường Mường Hoa, TT. Sa Pa, Sa Pa, Lào Cai 31706, Vietnam

★★★★☆ · Hotel

goo.gl

Second option was the Relax

Sapa Relax Hotel & Spa · 19A Đ. Đông Lợi, TT. Sa Pa, Sa Pa, Lào Cai, Vietnam

★★★★☆ · Hotel

goo.gl

but was full. So the Hotel De Sapa was it.


A couple of views from the Hotel De Sapa

The hotel bathroom was a winner with the little lady.

 

[DavidFL]

The ethnics of Sapa are full on & a curse for some, but I enjoy talking to them about their lives and family.

They know all the lines & slang for some enjoyable banter.

The kids start young & are star performers.

The highlight of my Sapa stay was hooking up with some red Zhao ladies I first met in 2010.

In 2023 this red Zhao lady has a smart phone, Facebook, Instagram, Tik Tok & a Homestay.

They are doing ok, perhaps.

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Some nights there are cultural shows in the Sapa Square

The BB hotel has a roof top bar that overlooks the Sapa square, providing stunning views & cocktails for a fair price.

Bb Sky Lounge Sapa · 08 Ngõ Cầu Mây, TT. Sa Pa, Sa Pa, Lào Cai 330000, Vietnam

★★★★☆ · Cocktail bar

goo.gl

And when the mist & fog rolls in, it is a surreal atmosphere.

 

[Heineken]

The BB hotel has a roof top bar that overlooks the Sapa square, providing stunning views & cocktails for a fair price.

View attachment 151304

Great location for your stay David, as you are aware the Sun Plaza is the train station to head up to Fan Si Pan, the highest mountain in Vietnam @ 3143m...........................Ive been up their twice on two separate stays and it still amazes me.............................before the cable car was built our motorcycle guide Win hiked up that mountain, he got frostbite on his toes, ill stick to the cable car

 

[DavidFL]

The other great little bar we discovered in Sapa was
Alexandros

A craft beer establishment, but with excellent cocktails

Alexandros · TT. Sa Pa, Sa Pa, Lao Cai, Vietnam

★★★★☆ · Cocktail bar

goo.gl

A few Sapa shopping pics

\

A lunch break with the locals

Confirmation Sapa is the foot massage capital of SE Asia.

 

[DavidFL]

Return to Hanoi from Sapa.

A van / mini bus or limousine as the agent called it.
It was comfortable, with lots of room & only 8 pax. Perfect & I was impressed.
Next time no train Hanoi - Lai Cai. No late departures, hanging out in town without a room, early arrivals & check in issues.

Departure time from Spa was 8am on the dot.
Arrival time in Hanoi was 1.30PM.
There was 1 last cruise around Hanoi for some last minute shopping & a trip to the Temple of Literature, for a bit of culture for the little lady.

The Temple of Literature

And that's basically it.
Apologies for the lack of photos usually I have a lot more; & I do. I took 1500 pics, but for discretion & privacy reasons it is inconvenient to post more.
I enjoy Hanoi so much that I want to go back & hang out for at least a week there.
There are some really interesting museums & historical places I want to see, but have failed so far due to other interests of the company I have been with.

Vietnam Museum of Ethnology · Ä. Nguyá»n VÄn Huyên, Quan Hoa, Cầu Giấy, Hà Ná»i 100000, Vietnam

âââââ · Ethnographic museum

goo.gl

Vietnam Military History Museum · Km6+500, CT03, Tây Má», Nam Từ Liêm, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Army museum

goo.gl

Vietnamese Women's Museum · 36 P. Lý ThÆ°á»ng Kiá»t, Hà ng Bà i, Hoà n Kiếm, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Museum

goo.gl

Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum · 66 P. Nguyá»n Thái Há»c, Äiá»n Biên, Ba Äình, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Art museum

goo.gl

Bảo tà ng Lá»ch sá» Quá»c gia · 1 Trà ng Tiá»n, Phan Chu Trinh, Hoà n Kiếm, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · History museum

goo.gl

Heritage House · 87 P. Mã Mây, Hà ng Buá»m, Hoà n Kiếm, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Museum

goo.gl

Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum · Km 15, QL6, Hà Äông, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Army museum

goo.gl

Museum of Anthropology · 336 Ä. Nguyá»n Trãi, Thanh Xuân Nam, Thanh Xuân, Hà Ná»i, Vietnam

âââââ · Archaeological museum

goo.gl

Tourism in Vietnam is booming & for me Vietnam has more to offer than Thailand in terms of scenery, ethnic diversity, history, culture & diversity.
Motorbike tours in Vietnam are also damn popular.
Hung @Flamingo is still #1 IMHO, but there are plenty of newbies nipping at their heals.

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Ride through the great Truong Son Mountains, rustic countrysides, picturesque rice fields to learn more about Vietnamese history.

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Vietnam is excellent value for money.

The travel agent I use & recommend is

Home page - AADASIA Holidays

https://aadasia.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/1968451127.mp4

abiholidays.com

It is owned by a wonderful multi lingual lady Kathy, whom I met on the car ferry crossing the Mekong on the way to Wat Phu & Champasak in 2011. We have remained good friends ever since!

Contact: [email protected]
AADASIA GROUP
Cen X Space, Sun Ancora Building, #3 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi
Email: [email protected] ; [email protected]
Their service is incredibly good, extremely efficient.

For the record my trip costs were
1. Air Asia Return Chiang - Hanoi - Chiang Mai = 6000 baht.
2. Centre Point Hotel Hanoi = US$43 a night.
3. E-Visa: US$35
4. Halong Bay Cruise. US$100 per person.
5. Train. Hanoi - Lao Cai: US$150. Private cabin. 2 Persons.
6. Transport Lao Cai - Sapa: US$17
7. Hotel Sapa: US33 per night.
8. Transport Sapa - Hanoi: US26.

Good luck everyone.
There's a lot more to see & explore still.