Introduction: What Was the Plan?
On December 27th, 2024, I boarded a Thai Airways flight from Frankfurt to Bangkok, kicking off what was supposed to be my second motorcycle adventure in Thailand.
I had mapped out 21 days in the Land of Smiles, with two and a half weeks in the saddle, chasing curves, countryside, and quiet roads.
The plan? Ride from Bangkok through Khon Kaen, Loei, Nan, and Phayao, all the way up to Chiang Rai. From there, I wanted to explore the far north, including the legendary Golden Triangle and a few other hidden gems along the way.
But as it often goes with two wheels and a bit of wanderlust, the road had its own agenda.
On January 5th, 2025, somewhere between Phayao and Chiang Rai, the ride came to an abrupt stop – and not at a scenic viewpoint.
I went down.
Preparation and "Hitting" the Road
My ride began in Bangkok, where I rented a Honda CB500X – a solid mid-range bike that’s perfect for Thai roads. It came equipped with side panniers and a top case, and I added a small tank bag up front for quick-access items (mostly camera gear), plus a compact tail bag in the back for tossing in whatever else I needed on the go.
CB500X in good condition, fresh rubber included. BSR – a reliable partner, even when things go sideways!
The rental company, BSR – Bangkok Scooter Rental, had already proven to be reliable during my previous trip, especially because they offer the option to keep your passport by paying a small insurance fee.
Never – and I mean never – hand over your passport. Not on Phuket, not on Koh Samui, not anywhere. It might be common practice on touristy islands, but it’s still an absolute no-go. Better to pay a little more and keep that precious document close.
On all my trips, I bring my own helmet and riding gear from home. Passive safety is non-negotiable for me. Especially when it comes to helmets – you’ll sometimes see local offerings that resemble salad bowls with a chin strap. Not exactly the kind of protection I want when things go south.
Warming Up the Engine – The First Few Days on the Road
After setting off from Bangkok, I made a quick stopover in Muak Lek before heading further northeast to Khon Kaen. That’s where I spent New Year’s Eve, and I took the following day to explore the city and its surroundings at a relaxed pace.
From there, the journey took me northbound again – this time to meet up with Wayne, whom I had already been in touch with via the GT-Rider forum. We met at his café, Capell Coffee, and had a great chat about life, bikes, and the road ahead. Before I left, he shared a few solid route suggestions, which I happily worked into my plans.
Meeting Wayne was one of the highlights of my trip. To my surprise, he spoke quite a bit of German – kudos, mate!
Banana Pancakes, Street Food & Solid Advice
That evening, I rolled into Loei and decided to treat myself to some street food – you’ve got to fuel the machine and the man. While waiting in line for a banana pancake for dessert, I randomly struck up a conversation with a fellow German named Peter, a fellow motorcycle enthusiast.
Peter recommended I check out the Loei Saloon, run by Chris, a well-known local biker. I took his advice – and I’m glad I did.
Chris turned out to be a goldmine of knowledge. Not only does he know northern Thailand like the back of his hand, but he also shared excellent route suggestions and valuable safety tips. One piece of advice stuck with me: watch out for slick patches of rubber sap on the roads early in the morning – a detail only locals or seasoned riders would think to mention.
He even offered to stay in touch during the trip if I needed more ideas on the fly.
(Unfortunately, no photo this time — but I’ll make sure to snap one on my next visit!)
Met Cairo on the way to Phayao – a Malaysian rider with good vibes and great stories. One of those random meetings that stay with you.
The Night Before – Just Settled into the Mood
After spending the night in Nan, I arrived in Phayao and enjoyed a truly beautiful evening – the kind of night that stays with you. The city was still glowing with New Year’s celebrations, featuring stunning light installations, small lakeside events, and fantastic street food.
I had just fully settled into the relaxed rhythm of the trip.
What really stuck with me was that I seemed to be one of the very few Farangs (Westerners) around. That’s exactly the kind of travel experience I treasure most – away from the crowds, immersed in everyday local life.
Phayao – what a beautiful night
Wat Sai Khao – The Last Stop Before It Happened
The crash happened the next day, around 2 p.m., just a few minutes after a short stop at Wat Sai Khao, a beautiful and peaceful temple nestled along the road.
I still remember clearly how I hit the brakes rather suddenly when I spotted it – something about the place made me want to stop and explore for a moment. I wandered around for a bit and snapped a few pictures.
Then I rolled on.
Due to a strong case of amnesia, I initially had no memory of what had happened next. It wasn’t until later, lying in a hospital bed, that some fragmented images slowly returned.
I remembered suddenly finding myself riding next to the straight asphalt road, in the grass, confused and disoriented. Two thoughts flashed through my mind like warning lights:
“What the hell am I doing here? Why am I riding here?”
and then:
“Shit, I’m going fast!”
I estimated my speed at at least 60 km/h, which is way too fast when you’re riding on terrain you were never meant to ride on.
The Attempt to Rejoin the Road – What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
To get out of that mess, I saw only one option: get back on the road.
In hindsight, maybe a smart tap on the rear brake could’ve helped – who knows.
But at that speed and on that surface, it’s all guesswork.
And who’s to say what might’ve been waiting for me further down in the grass?
As I aimed to rejoin the asphalt, the sidewall of my front tire caught the edge – a solid 10 cm height difference, as the picture shows.
That was all it took.
A sudden sideward jolt to the front wheel, and it snapped out from under me – hard to the left.
I went down instantly, crashing to the right, my helmet slamming sideways into the tarmac, followed by my right shoulder digging into the road with full force.
Thankfully, I was wearing high-quality gear and a top-tier helmet.
That gear did its job and kept a bad crash from turning into something far worse.
I believed a witness took this photo with my phone. Only later did I spot my own reflection in the top case — I had taken it myself, with no memory of doing so
Confused, Cracked, but Still Rolling (Somehow)
Say cheese! Right after saying ‘ouch’
Passport Present. Memory… Not So Much
I assume it was local bystanders who called the ambulance. If I did speak with any of them about what happened, I must have forgotten it right away — I spent at least an hour or two moving through a fog. Later, I found out that no police report had been filed, which is quite a contrast to Germany or other Western countries, where a written report would be standard. But hey, this is Thailand.
That evening, I scrolled through my chat history and came across a conversation with a friend in Germany. I had asked him multiple times how many days I’d already been in Thailand. He later told me I’d asked the same thing eight times on the phone. Wild what the brain does after taking a serious hit. Definitely a solid concussion. The CT scan at the hospital came back clear, though — lucky me.
I also had no idea where I had started that day. I just knew it couldn’t have been Nan — that would’ve been way too far. Only late at night did it click again: Phayao had been my last stop. The feeling of memories returning in little fragments was both comforting and unsettling.
A nurse later told me that my bike was parked at the hospital. Apparently, one of the paramedics had ridden it there. In my mind, I pictured him in flip-flops, a T-shirt, and no helmet, casually following the ambulance. Classic Amazing Thailand.
The Public Hospital
A Quick Injury Check – Could’ve Been Worse
Once I arrived on the ward, it became clear that my injuries were relatively manageable: a fractured right collarbone, a concussion, minor scrapes on my elbow and knuckles, and a small bruise on my right thigh. Other than that, no complaints — no bruised ribs, knees, feet, or elbows. That was a massive relief. Things could’ve turned out much worse.
Basic Setup, Big Hearts
The public hospital in Phan was basic but functional. I was placed in a large room with around 20–30 beds, separated only by curtains — if at all.
There was no call button to summon a nurse. Instead, they simply told me to get the attention of other patients or their visitors, who would then go fetch someone for me.
And honestly? It worked like a charm.
At one point, the daughter of a neighboring patient noticed I was struggling and got a nurse for me.
Heartwarming stuff.
Wobbly Wheels & Concrete Dreams
A little anecdote I won’t forget:
The IV stand holding my saline drip was as stubborn as they come — think of a squeaky shopping cart with three jammed wheels. Maneuvering that thing to the toilet without taking out half the ward was a performance in itself.
The overall setup of the public hospital was pragmatic, and definitely far removed from what you’d expect in Western Europe.
The toilets and washrooms weren’t exactly what you’d find in a German hospital — but they were clean, functional, and perfectly fine. My previous motorcycle camping trips had trained me well for situations like this, and I took it all in stride (and with a sense of humor).
One thing I’ll never forget?
The mattress.
I’ve slept in all kinds of beds across Asia — but this one takes the prize. Rock. Solid. I lovingly dubbed it the concrete mattress.
Unfamiliar as it all was, I remained deeply grateful for the care I received and the kindness of the people around me.
Unexpected Help & Brotherhood on Two Wheels
As my thoughts slowly began to clear and I could focus long enough to look at my phone screen again, I decided to send Wayne a quick message. I just wanted to let him know that the planned meetup with David — the administrator of the Golden Triangle Rider Forum — unfortunately wasn’t going to happen.
Wayne didn’t hesitate. He reached out to David immediately. I didn’t think much of it. But only a short while later, a message popped up on my screen:
“Can you confirm you’re at Phan Hospital? See you there in an hour.”
I knew he meant it. I knew he would come.
But I still couldn’t quite believe it.
At around 10:30 PM, just as I was starting to drift off, David appeared at my bedside. A complete stranger I had never met before had come to check on me — simply because he could. Just to help. Just to be there.
That moment hit me hard — in the best possible way.
And he didn’t come alone.
With him was Dao, a local tour guide he had worked with before. He introduced us, and from that point on, Dao became my rock. She helped me communicate, sorted out paperwork, brought me clean clothes for the flight (hello joggers and breezy shirt), coordinated my luggage — some of which was still in Bangkok — and drove me anywhere I needed to go.
Without Dao, I wouldn’t have made it through that time.
And without David, I never would have met her.
This sudden wave of support from people I barely knew — or had never met before — was absolutely overwhelming. It reminded me that the brotherhood of motorcyclists isn’t just a romantic idea.
It’s real.
And sometimes, it’s everything.
On December 27th, 2024, I boarded a Thai Airways flight from Frankfurt to Bangkok, kicking off what was supposed to be my second motorcycle adventure in Thailand.
I had mapped out 21 days in the Land of Smiles, with two and a half weeks in the saddle, chasing curves, countryside, and quiet roads.
The plan? Ride from Bangkok through Khon Kaen, Loei, Nan, and Phayao, all the way up to Chiang Rai. From there, I wanted to explore the far north, including the legendary Golden Triangle and a few other hidden gems along the way.
But as it often goes with two wheels and a bit of wanderlust, the road had its own agenda.
On January 5th, 2025, somewhere between Phayao and Chiang Rai, the ride came to an abrupt stop – and not at a scenic viewpoint.
I went down.
Preparation and "Hitting" the Road
My ride began in Bangkok, where I rented a Honda CB500X – a solid mid-range bike that’s perfect for Thai roads. It came equipped with side panniers and a top case, and I added a small tank bag up front for quick-access items (mostly camera gear), plus a compact tail bag in the back for tossing in whatever else I needed on the go.
CB500X in good condition, fresh rubber included. BSR – a reliable partner, even when things go sideways!
The rental company, BSR – Bangkok Scooter Rental, had already proven to be reliable during my previous trip, especially because they offer the option to keep your passport by paying a small insurance fee.
Never – and I mean never – hand over your passport. Not on Phuket, not on Koh Samui, not anywhere. It might be common practice on touristy islands, but it’s still an absolute no-go. Better to pay a little more and keep that precious document close.
On all my trips, I bring my own helmet and riding gear from home. Passive safety is non-negotiable for me. Especially when it comes to helmets – you’ll sometimes see local offerings that resemble salad bowls with a chin strap. Not exactly the kind of protection I want when things go south.
Warming Up the Engine – The First Few Days on the Road
After setting off from Bangkok, I made a quick stopover in Muak Lek before heading further northeast to Khon Kaen. That’s where I spent New Year’s Eve, and I took the following day to explore the city and its surroundings at a relaxed pace.
From there, the journey took me northbound again – this time to meet up with Wayne, whom I had already been in touch with via the GT-Rider forum. We met at his café, Capell Coffee, and had a great chat about life, bikes, and the road ahead. Before I left, he shared a few solid route suggestions, which I happily worked into my plans.
Meeting Wayne was one of the highlights of my trip. To my surprise, he spoke quite a bit of German – kudos, mate!
Banana Pancakes, Street Food & Solid Advice
That evening, I rolled into Loei and decided to treat myself to some street food – you’ve got to fuel the machine and the man. While waiting in line for a banana pancake for dessert, I randomly struck up a conversation with a fellow German named Peter, a fellow motorcycle enthusiast.
Peter recommended I check out the Loei Saloon, run by Chris, a well-known local biker. I took his advice – and I’m glad I did.
Chris turned out to be a goldmine of knowledge. Not only does he know northern Thailand like the back of his hand, but he also shared excellent route suggestions and valuable safety tips. One piece of advice stuck with me: watch out for slick patches of rubber sap on the roads early in the morning – a detail only locals or seasoned riders would think to mention.
He even offered to stay in touch during the trip if I needed more ideas on the fly.
(Unfortunately, no photo this time — but I’ll make sure to snap one on my next visit!)
Met Cairo on the way to Phayao – a Malaysian rider with good vibes and great stories. One of those random meetings that stay with you.
The Night Before – Just Settled into the Mood
After spending the night in Nan, I arrived in Phayao and enjoyed a truly beautiful evening – the kind of night that stays with you. The city was still glowing with New Year’s celebrations, featuring stunning light installations, small lakeside events, and fantastic street food.
I had just fully settled into the relaxed rhythm of the trip.
What really stuck with me was that I seemed to be one of the very few Farangs (Westerners) around. That’s exactly the kind of travel experience I treasure most – away from the crowds, immersed in everyday local life.
Phayao – what a beautiful night
Wat Sai Khao – The Last Stop Before It Happened
The crash happened the next day, around 2 p.m., just a few minutes after a short stop at Wat Sai Khao, a beautiful and peaceful temple nestled along the road.
I still remember clearly how I hit the brakes rather suddenly when I spotted it – something about the place made me want to stop and explore for a moment. I wandered around for a bit and snapped a few pictures.
Then I rolled on.
Due to a strong case of amnesia, I initially had no memory of what had happened next. It wasn’t until later, lying in a hospital bed, that some fragmented images slowly returned.
I remembered suddenly finding myself riding next to the straight asphalt road, in the grass, confused and disoriented. Two thoughts flashed through my mind like warning lights:
“What the hell am I doing here? Why am I riding here?”
and then:
“Shit, I’m going fast!”
I estimated my speed at at least 60 km/h, which is way too fast when you’re riding on terrain you were never meant to ride on.
The Attempt to Rejoin the Road – What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
To get out of that mess, I saw only one option: get back on the road.
In hindsight, maybe a smart tap on the rear brake could’ve helped – who knows.
But at that speed and on that surface, it’s all guesswork.
And who’s to say what might’ve been waiting for me further down in the grass?
As I aimed to rejoin the asphalt, the sidewall of my front tire caught the edge – a solid 10 cm height difference, as the picture shows.
That was all it took.
A sudden sideward jolt to the front wheel, and it snapped out from under me – hard to the left.
I went down instantly, crashing to the right, my helmet slamming sideways into the tarmac, followed by my right shoulder digging into the road with full force.
Thankfully, I was wearing high-quality gear and a top-tier helmet.
That gear did its job and kept a bad crash from turning into something far worse.
I believed a witness took this photo with my phone. Only later did I spot my own reflection in the top case — I had taken it myself, with no memory of doing so
Confused, Cracked, but Still Rolling (Somehow)
Say cheese! Right after saying ‘ouch’
Passport Present. Memory… Not So Much
I assume it was local bystanders who called the ambulance. If I did speak with any of them about what happened, I must have forgotten it right away — I spent at least an hour or two moving through a fog. Later, I found out that no police report had been filed, which is quite a contrast to Germany or other Western countries, where a written report would be standard. But hey, this is Thailand.
That evening, I scrolled through my chat history and came across a conversation with a friend in Germany. I had asked him multiple times how many days I’d already been in Thailand. He later told me I’d asked the same thing eight times on the phone. Wild what the brain does after taking a serious hit. Definitely a solid concussion. The CT scan at the hospital came back clear, though — lucky me.
I also had no idea where I had started that day. I just knew it couldn’t have been Nan — that would’ve been way too far. Only late at night did it click again: Phayao had been my last stop. The feeling of memories returning in little fragments was both comforting and unsettling.
A nurse later told me that my bike was parked at the hospital. Apparently, one of the paramedics had ridden it there. In my mind, I pictured him in flip-flops, a T-shirt, and no helmet, casually following the ambulance. Classic Amazing Thailand.
The Public Hospital
A Quick Injury Check – Could’ve Been Worse
Once I arrived on the ward, it became clear that my injuries were relatively manageable: a fractured right collarbone, a concussion, minor scrapes on my elbow and knuckles, and a small bruise on my right thigh. Other than that, no complaints — no bruised ribs, knees, feet, or elbows. That was a massive relief. Things could’ve turned out much worse.
Basic Setup, Big Hearts
The public hospital in Phan was basic but functional. I was placed in a large room with around 20–30 beds, separated only by curtains — if at all.
There was no call button to summon a nurse. Instead, they simply told me to get the attention of other patients or their visitors, who would then go fetch someone for me.
And honestly? It worked like a charm.
At one point, the daughter of a neighboring patient noticed I was struggling and got a nurse for me.
Heartwarming stuff.
Wobbly Wheels & Concrete Dreams
A little anecdote I won’t forget:
The IV stand holding my saline drip was as stubborn as they come — think of a squeaky shopping cart with three jammed wheels. Maneuvering that thing to the toilet without taking out half the ward was a performance in itself.
The overall setup of the public hospital was pragmatic, and definitely far removed from what you’d expect in Western Europe.
The toilets and washrooms weren’t exactly what you’d find in a German hospital — but they were clean, functional, and perfectly fine. My previous motorcycle camping trips had trained me well for situations like this, and I took it all in stride (and with a sense of humor).
One thing I’ll never forget?
The mattress.
I’ve slept in all kinds of beds across Asia — but this one takes the prize. Rock. Solid. I lovingly dubbed it the concrete mattress.
Unfamiliar as it all was, I remained deeply grateful for the care I received and the kindness of the people around me.
Unexpected Help & Brotherhood on Two Wheels
As my thoughts slowly began to clear and I could focus long enough to look at my phone screen again, I decided to send Wayne a quick message. I just wanted to let him know that the planned meetup with David — the administrator of the Golden Triangle Rider Forum — unfortunately wasn’t going to happen.
Wayne didn’t hesitate. He reached out to David immediately. I didn’t think much of it. But only a short while later, a message popped up on my screen:
“Can you confirm you’re at Phan Hospital? See you there in an hour.”
I knew he meant it. I knew he would come.
But I still couldn’t quite believe it.
At around 10:30 PM, just as I was starting to drift off, David appeared at my bedside. A complete stranger I had never met before had come to check on me — simply because he could. Just to help. Just to be there.
That moment hit me hard — in the best possible way.
And he didn’t come alone.
With him was Dao, a local tour guide he had worked with before. He introduced us, and from that point on, Dao became my rock. She helped me communicate, sorted out paperwork, brought me clean clothes for the flight (hello joggers and breezy shirt), coordinated my luggage — some of which was still in Bangkok — and drove me anywhere I needed to go.
Without Dao, I wouldn’t have made it through that time.
And without David, I never would have met her.
This sudden wave of support from people I barely knew — or had never met before — was absolutely overwhelming. It reminded me that the brotherhood of motorcyclists isn’t just a romantic idea.
It’s real.
And sometimes, it’s everything.
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