Chiang Khong - Chiang Mai back. A 5-day meander via Mae Chan - Tha Ton - Fang - Chai Prakarn.

[DavidFL]

Rider David Unk.
Bike: Suzuki Vstrom 650.
Dates: 1 February - 6 February 2025.

A belated quick report after a couple of months of a "long COVID" (the local's term), a cough and allergy illness.

January and most of February were bummer months for me, suffering from pollen and dust allergies, with the cold air from the North.
Funny how it goes, because as soon as it warms up, the cool North wind drops and the warm haze from the south blows. I'm fine now and chaffing at the bit to get back on the pace.

The cabin fever eventually got me, and I headed off to Chiang Mai to check up on my son Jason, plus mates as I went.

Panor Coffee was the first stop for brunch and a natter with the staff.

Panor Coffee House · 189 Pa Tueng, Mae Chan District, Chiang Rai 57110, Thailand

âââââ · Coffee shop

maps.app.goo.gl

Well satiated, it was a slow meander down R1089.

The next stop was the new Lisu garden "Roi Jai Rak Garden."

There's a small entry fee, but the sharp ticket lady was straight onto me and asked how old I was.
A mere 71.
Ah, ok, youre a pensioner; you can come in free then. No charge.

I was unaware that I locked so glaringly ancient. But it is what it is, and I guess I won't be getting a date tonight.

There's a coffee shop on site, and you can get a nice drink, hot or cold, to assist in savouring the view.

If you're into selfies and Instagram or Tik Tok, it's a cool place to go.

ROI JAI RAK GARDEN · 888 Tha Ton, Mae Ai District, Chiang Mai 50280, Thailand

âââââ · Tourist attraction

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[DavidFL]

Tha Ton was the next stop and time to suss out a new place of stay.

The M2 Apartment was the go in TT this time round.

M2 Apartment · 110 หมู๠3 à¸à¸à¸ à¹à¸à¸µà¸¢à¸à¸£à¸²à¸¢, à¸à¸à¸ à¹à¸¡à¹à¸à¸±à¸-à¸à¸²à¸ Mae Ai, Chiang Mai 50280, Thailand

âââââ · Holiday apartment rental

maps.app.goo.gl

A newish apartment block with smart, clean rooms.

550 - 600 baht and good value with off-street parking.

Tha Ton Accommodation

THA TON CLOSED - Apple River Villa run by Tui The Apple River VIlla restaurant balcony over Tha Ton River. The Bungalow Riverview A glorious view & location. North side & downstream of the Kok River Bridge. Check it out for a romantic night with the girlfriend (I will be on the next trip...

www.gt-rider.com

 

[DavidFL]

The masterplan for the night was to catch up to mates Steve M, plus check on Uncle Jack, ex-Fang, at his new establishment.

Heading north from the M2, Steve M was already waiting for me by the bridge—the opposite of me, who is usually late and running behind schedule. Well done again, Steve.

If you're in Tha Ton, Uncle Jack's Steak Boran is 500 metres straight north of the bridge, down the soi to Wat Phawana Nimit.

Steak Boran Return · 169, Thaton Subdistrict, Mae Ai District, Chiang Mai 50280, Thailand

âââââ · Western restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

Uncle Jack's new digs at Tha Ton.

Uncle Jack with the new bride.

They do cheap eats / pub grub.

Steve M had not met Uncle Jack before, but he was impressed by his lively, happy character.

The Uncle Jack story on GTR.

Uncle Jack's Hideaway - Steak Boran Return - Tha Ton

One upon a time (2008) in Fang, there was a really cool, funky cowboy restaurant called Uncle Jack's. Uncle Jack & his wife, Lady Jane, were fabulous hosts and a super delightful couple to hang out with. They served cheap steaks, fish and chips, plus a few other fast farang dishes...

www.gt-rider.com

He is a gem and a very lovely man.

Tha Ton Restaurants

Tha Ton, a place where most folk go through on the way north has a great eatery, Sunshine Coffee. Well worth a visit for some excellent coffee, farang and Thai food. You wont be sorry you stopped. Just a sample for a snack... Heading north, its just before the bridge (about 100 mtrs)...

www.gt-rider.com

 

[DavidFL]

Returning from Uncle Jack's in the dark, I noticed a few lights twinkling by the river where the Chandkasem restaurant used to be.
Used to be, because they, along with the rest of Tha Ton riverside, suffered massive damage in the 2024 great flood.

The flood damaged Chandkasem in September 2024.

Photo by Steve M.

Report on flood damage in and near Tha Ton.

As a 13 year resident of Thaton I am often guilty of saying that nothing happens, there's nowhere to go unless you venture out to Fang and that it gets lonely with few friends. Its a quiet place but many would be thankful for that especially after the last month. The Kok river is normally not...

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Twinkle nights at night need an investigation, I thought, and it was the Chandkasem, albeit lacking in customers.

The bright and shiny twinkling Chandkasem February 2025.

I was gobsmacked; they were backup and running again. What a sensational, fantastic job!

The Chandkasem was also the rendezvous start place the next morning for Steve and I, plus a well-known Tha Ton Akha vendor celebrity.

Breakfast was overlong due to an order misunderstanding.
A confusing discussion over exactly what to order resulted in no order being taken despite what we thought had been decided.
Oh well, the view by the river was pleasant enough.

 

[DavidFL]

Chiang Mai was the next night destination via some Chai Prakarn rural back roads West of R107.
Steve M was the guide, as this area is his backyard.

The Guan Yin, Goddess of Mercy temple.

Many of the KMT soldiers who retreated from the failed war against the communists in China, settled in North Thailand were Buddhists or Taoists. Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, is a key figure in their spiritual practices.

San Chao Mae Guan Yin shrines serve as places of worship, cultural heritage, and remembrance for these old KMT families.

3 km further on from the Guan Yin shrine, in Mai Bong Nua KMT city is a fabulous little historical KMT coffeeshop.

The KMT Coffee Shop at Mai Nong Bua

ç°åå¤è»æäºå±/é²ä¹ååå¡ Â· P3CW+XM3 Unnamed Road Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Coffee shop

maps.app.goo.gl

This KMT coffeeshop has featured on GTR before, after Steve M's discovery.

Kmt Coffee Shop At Baan Mai Nong Bua.

A few years ago I looked for, and found, the road up from Chai Prakarn to Sinchai that goes via Tham Ngop, and Pha Daeng to Doi Ang Kang. I was really surprised to be just a few kms from Chai Prakarn and still on the lowland to find a big Chinese community at the above named place. I dont live...

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100 metres away, around the corner from the coffeeshop, is the surprisingly unkempt tomb site for General Li Wen Huan.

General Li Wen Huan's Tomb

For such a revered and famous character, the grounds could do with a bit of TLC.

Who was the good general?
General Li Wen Huan along with General Tuan Shi-wen both Kuomintang (KMT) military leaders who led Nationalist Chinese troops into northern Thailand and Myanmar after the fall of mainland China to the Communists.
They set up camp in North Thailand in 1961 at Doi Mae Salong (General Tuan Shi-wen) and Tham Ngop (General Li Wen Huan), on R1340, 13 kms from Mae Bong Nua.

General Lee's Residence · Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Tourist attraction

maps.app.goo.gl

The two good KMT generals were involved in the famous but failed opium caravan battle against Khun Sa, in Laos at the Golden Triangle in 1967.
General Li Wen Huan also supplied many soldiers for internal battles against Communists in Thailand in the 70s and 80s.

Some KMT History on GTR:

Doi Mae Salong History | The GT Rider

The Colourful History of Doi Mae Salong The seeds of the Doi Mae Salong community were sown way back at the end of the Chinese Civil War, in October 1949. This really is an incredible story, set against a backdrop of the Chinese Civil War, the Korean War and The Cold War... Partipants in the

www.thegtrider.com

 

[DavidFL]

Mai Nong Bua Hot Springs.

1.5 km further S-W from the good general's tomb are the Mai Nong Bua Hot Springs.

Baan Mai Nong Bua Hot Spring · P37Q+XM2, Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

P37Q+XM2, Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

maps.app.goo.gl

A relatively unknown attraction, the hot springs may well have been quite a nice attraction in their day, but sadly, they were in need of some TLC, when Steve and I visited.

I was last here with the Kiwi Cruiser on a Doi Ang Khang loop in December 2008, and the place was in a not dissimilar condition then:

The Doi Ang Khang Loop

Mon 27- Tues 28 April 2003. ROUTES: 107 – 1178 – 1340 – Doi Ang Khang - Nor Lae – Fang – Chiang Mai. Total distance: 350 kms. ALL asphalt. Weather is HOT. A respectable 10.00 am start after breakfast at the Bier Stube, with mate & BMW GS1150 rider Robert & girlfriend Nang. With the girlfriends...

www.gt-rider.com

Perhaps the issue is a not uncommon budget problem?

 

[DavidFL]

San Chao Mae Guan Yin​

100 metres from the Mai Nong Bua hot springs is another Guan Yin temple.

In superior condition compared to the hot springs, you might as well drop in here for a pic or two if you've "wasted" your time at the hot springs.

San Chao Mae Guan Yin · P38Q+69H, Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Taoist temple

maps.app.goo.gl

Some nice graphics downtown in central Mai Bong Nua.

19°43'20.8"N 99°05'50.5"E · 19.722444, 99.097361

maps.app.goo.gl

Mai Bong Nua looks to be an interesting, classic old KMT town worthy of a night and a longer look around.

Some accommodation options.

Anton Place · 527/1 à¸à¹à¸²à¸à¹à¸«à¸¡à¹à¸«à¸à¸à¸à¸à¸±à¸§ Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Hotel

maps.app.goo.gl

à¸à¸µà¹à¸à¹à¸à¸à¹à¸®à¸¡à¸ªà¹à¸à¸¢à¹ · 659 หมูà¹10 Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Homestay

maps.app.goo.gl

Some dining options

รà¹à¸²à¸à¸«à¸¡à¸µà¹à¹à¸ªà¸à¹à¸à¸£à¸´à¸ · 50320, Thailand, Chiang Mai, Chai Prakan District, Nong Bua, Unnamed Road

âââââ · Restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

รà¹à¸²à¸à¸«à¸¢à¸¸à¸à¹à¸«à¸§à¹à¸¢à¸à¸² · 759 Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Chinese restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

Seri organic farm · 756 ม.10 Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

An interesting wat nearby to check out

Wat Tham Pha Phueng · P3QQ+94G, Nong Bua, Chai Prakan District, Chiang Mai 50320, Thailand

âââââ · Buddhist temple

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[DavidFL]

Chiang Mai was my next and final destination on this outward journey.
It was the end of Chinese New Year, and I was overconfident about getting a room for 2 nights and did not book one at my fave hotel, the Royal Panerai.
They only had a room for the 2nd night. I rang the Lux hotel for a room for 2 nights, but they only had one for the first night.
Option 3 came up trumps; I got a room at the classic old Prince Hotel for 2 nights. Whoopie.
I first stayed at the Prince Hotel with my mum and dad 35-odd years ago! The place hasn't changed much and oozes an ancient ambience.

The Prince has a pool and once upon a time used to be a party hotel in the day where all the bar gals and punters went to hang out.
They also used to have a fabulous coffee shop with live music and hot waitresses.

In Chiang Mai it was time to catch up to my fabulous Jason, who was turning 40!
Like most father-son relationships, we've had some testing years in his formative years, but he sure as hell has turned out to be an incredible son.

In June 2022, I had a nasty crash, nearly chopping off my right leg and breaking my right arm in two places.
On the way to the hospital, I phoned Jason to let him know I'd had a crash and was on the way to the hospital with a broken leg.
I was okay and would ring him again in a day or two to let him know how I was going after my leg had been operated on and fixed.
I was operated on for 7 hours, and when I came out of surgery, Jason was waiting for me in my hospital room.
He never left my side for the next 3 months and was totally dedicated to caring for his father through a tough 3 months.

Bathing, feeding, and cleaning me through thick and thin (constipation and diarrhoea).
I will never forget his dedication and genuine love and affection for his grumpy old man. He is a genuine gem of the highest quality.
With a similar warped sense of humour, Jason also tolerated me getting this pic on the way home from the hospital in the ambulance.

Jason loves to ride, but due to a physical disability, he is limited to riding a scooter.

We have done some amazing rides around the North together, and his Yamaha 155 Aerox now has 150,000 km on the clock.

Nan-Pua-Phayao-4 nights on the road with my son

Something a bit different but a total joy for me to be able to do. A quick blast around the Nan - the King of Big Bike Touring Provinces. Due to the traffic mayhem over Christmas & New Year I oped not to travel to Chiang Mai & hook up with my son Jason, but promised a short bike trip with him...

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Earlier, I'd asked what he would like to do for his birthday.
Oh, just hang out with Dad and have dinner together, was the reply.
We thought we would have a buffet pig-out at the Auf der Au Garden German buffet, but when we met at the agreed time, the restaurant was absolutely full with a mass of people queued up out in the street.
Cancel that, then, we agreed.

1 km away was Dukes, and Jason hit the jackpot with a giant pizza.

The Duke's Ping River · 49, 4-5 Chiang Mai-Lam Phun Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chang Wat Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand

âââââ · American restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

Jason rose to the occasion and devoured the pizza. So, the next stop was the Kafe1985 for some kanom for a nightcap.

Long may happy father-son relationships continue.
Love and respect.

 

[DavidFL]

Prior to departing for Chiang Mai I made an appointment at the GT to hook up with Bert & Joy ex Soppong River Inn at Soppong / Pang Mapha.

Lahu New Year 2008 Mae Hong Son back via Soppong River

RIDERS: Silverhawk, Hoghead, Ian "Ambassador" Bungy, Sean, Rhodie, Motorbike Marcus, Pikey & DavidFL. Sean was a new GT Rider guy on his Harley Hoghead with his Beemer. And the rest of the mob at the viewpoint between Pai & Pangmapha THE ROUTE ‘N WAY. Route 107- 1095 – 107. Chiang Mai –...

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Old buddies from 20 years ago, but now living in the USA. Bert was in North Thailand at the end of his visa and needed to do a quick border bounce before going home in a few more days. The Golden Triangle was the most convenient place for them.
So, it was a quick 2-night stop in Chiang Mai, then a quick blast up to Chiang Saen and a Mekong pizza for the night.

The popular old GTR fellah & son man's brekky at the UN Irish Pub in Chiang Mai before departure.

I do miss the Bier Stube pub grub, breakfasts nowadays, but they have moved out on the superhighway, and the location is no longer convenient for me.
My other fave brekky spot in Chiang Mai is the Blue Diamond, but Jason much prefers the UN Irish.

In Chiang Saen, the convenient, cheap charlie place of stay for me is the Nam Phueng2 Place.

Multi-coloured room choices. Good value for money at 450 baht a night! Plus plenty of parking space.

Chiang Saen Accommodation

Chiang Saen – Chiangsan Golden Resort I did not survey all lodging possibilities from GT to Chiangsaen but found “Chiangsan Golden Resort” of reasonable value. It is not on the rim of the Mekong but at the foot of the hill of wat Chom Kitti, in a quite environment. Rooms (800 THB with 2...

www.gt-rider.com

Burt and Joy love to hang out by the Mekong River after a Mekong Pizza, which, according to Burt makes any trip to the GT worthwhile.

Sop Ruak - Golden Triangle Restaurants

Mekong Pizza # 1 pizza on the Mekong according to trip advisor Smart indoor aircon dining A thumbs up from Ian Yonok for the best pizza in the region,

www.gt-rider.com

Once the yummy goodies were safely ensconced in our burgeoning tummies, it was time to chill out by the Khong.
The latest new place is the Hiran, next to the Madoo

Hiran-หิรัภ· à¹à¸§à¸µà¸¢à¸ 487/1 Chiang Saen District, Chiang Rai 57150, Thailand

âââââ · Restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

Brekky the next day was a test lazy 600 metres away from the Nam Phueng 2.
The Place: The Mong Doo Ngam. Conveniently located with riverside views.

A very basin breakfast, but the coffee is good, as is the location and cheap price.

Chiang Saen Restaurants

IN CHIANG SAEN 1. KRUA CHIANG SAEN Restaurant. Another big thumbs up for this place. Excellent value for money, superb food, big servings low prices. River side on the 'Khong, opposite Gin's Ghouse at the Golden Triangle end of town! The Happy Go Lucky Girlfriend singer, who knows her food...

www.gt-rider.com

Once upon a time in Chiang Saen - pre covid - there was a great little pub with live music nearby the Nam Phueng2.
We had a great dinner night there once upon a time when the place was really rocking in Chiang Saen.
Friendship was the name of the pub.

Ms Aoy was the singer-owner.

The pub was booming and too popular.
Aoy opened a bigger 2nd pub, the Origin, by the Serene hotel.

The Origin boomed too and was the most popular night spot with live music in Chiang Saen city.
Then covid came, business collapsed, & Aoy got out of the nightlife life biz.
But she now has a new open-air restaurant cafe in the back streets of Chiang Saen.
She's also remarried and happy with a less stressful lifestyle.
The new place: Friendship@SmoothHouse90

Swing on by sometime.

Friendship@SmoothHouse90' · 256 à¹à¸§à¸µà¸¢à¸ Tambon Wiang, Chiang Saen District, Chiang Rai 57150, Thailand

âââââ · Restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

A rewarding trip hooking up with old friends; 50 minutes later I was home in Chiang Khong City, amongst the trees.

Long may the good times continue wandering around meeting up with old friends.