A CSL Dinner ride: Chiang Khong - Sawankhalok - Si Satchanalai & Return.

DavidFL

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10- days away from Chiang Khong & first time out riding on a trip since my accident.

CSL Restaurant in Si Satchanalai had their 9th Anniversary on the 31s January, so a few of us headed to Si Satch for the event.

For me it gave me an opportunity to test out the beaten-up body & riding again.
It was the first long trip riding the mighty Nmax. Laugh some of you may, but when recovering from a significant crash, you need to ease yourself back into the groove, riding carefully.
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Concerned about stamina, I played it safe and managed short rides, & went
1. Chiang Khong - Phayao.
2. Phayao - Phrae.
3. Phrae - Sawankhalok.
4. Sawankhalok- Si Satchanalai.
5. Si Satchanalai - Lampang.
6. Lampang - Chiang Mai.
7. Chiang Mai - Chiang Khong.
10 nights in total, after hanging out in Chiang Mai a few nights catching up with friends.

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A few highlights.
In Phayao my place of stay was the Phu Thong place.
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The Phu Thong also has undercover parking.

The main purpose of a night in Phayao was to visit Tokico Motorsports & check up on our dear friend Dtong, who had a nasty car accident several months ago & still remains unconscious in hospital @Nakhon Sawan.
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Yai is still running the shop for Dtong, & Dtong's wife & son live upstairs in the shop.

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Dtong's Mum, a senior nurse is watching over Dtong at the hospital in Nakhon Sawan, Dtong's hometown.
Sadly there is little improvement in Dtong's condition, he remains unconscious, but supposedly there is slight recognition of visitors in his eyes.
We sincerely hope he will eventually recover.

That night in Phayao, I hit the So Good Pub & Restaurant to check up on Yai's bass guitar playing.

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Day 1 down & I was enjoying the freedom back on the bike & the Nmax.

Day 2 was a lazy day, with a gentle ride down to Phrae.
It was a slow start to the day, lingering longer having a coffee in Phayao at the Samatha.
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Finally on the road. A favourite PTT / 7-11 / Amazons stop on R1,
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R103 is an awesome ride for a bit of speed, then a fabulous 16 kms of twisties in the mountains crossing from Lampang to Phrae province.
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The Nmax tops out @ 120KPh with lung tucked right in, not that fast you might say, but it's only a 155cc & lung carries a bit of weight.
In the straights you get passed by just about everyone, but in the twisties I was able to repass everyone going up over the mountain crossing, only to be repassed by everyone again in the only straight linking up with R101. All good fun I thought.

In Phrae I wanted to stay at an old favourite hotel, the Nam Thong which used to be 350-450 baht, but it closed during covid & reopened as the Kinn, but at a price of 790 baht. No thanks. So, the Viva Resort again it was for 400 baht & top value it is for the price.
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The only issue at the Viva is that you may have to bend over a bit to get under the shower.
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Dinner in Phrae was at the Tbone Steak House, after a disaster attempt to eat at my favourite Thai restaurant across the street.

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The Tbone Steak House is nice value for money & has been a GTR Up-Country dinner venue before



So, what happened at my Thai favourite restaurant?
They dont have a menu in English, but it is not a problem for me ordering food, & I have eaten at the Krua Hom multiple times. The food has always been fresh, tasty big servings; however, on this night I got a "mai mee" no have for the first 5 dishes I tried to order. What do you have today then? Fried rice was the answer. I looked around at the other customers & no one was eating fried rice but regular dishes. OK never mind I said & walked 50 metres across the street to the TBone Steak House.

To be continued...
 
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DavidFL

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Day 3 Phrae - Si Satchanalai - Sawankhalok.
Sawankhalok attractions.

Another leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Gingerbread House.
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The Gingerbread House is a unique little boutique Gh & cafe in Phrae, that is always worthy of a coffee & bite to eat.
It is my go to brekky spot in Phrae. My fave brekky spot used to be the WeeWee, but after moved & access is upstairs in a townhouse they longer get my vote.
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The family that owns the Gingerbread speak good English & are very knowledgeable about travel & the history of Phrae.

A couple of hours later I was in Sisatch & popped into the CSL to confirm everything was ok for their 9th Anniversary birthday the next day.
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Next stop was Sawankhalok city, 30 odd kms away. Not far & an old town, that used to be a major city in the North, but Sawankhalok seemed to fade with the end of the logging business & new highways. Originally it was its own province, but in 1893 it was absorbed into Sukhothai & lost a lot of its sheen. The old town is still a bit of a gem & worthy of exploring.

The Sawankhalok Railway station.

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The Sawankhalaok railway station is unique at the end of a short side line from off the main Bangkok - Chiang Mai railway line.
The station is over 100 years old & was built by King Rama 5 in honour of one of his wives, who was from Sawankhalok.

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Situated on the Yom river, Sawankhalok used to be a major trading town & hosted a lot of Chinese merchants.
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The downtown market area of Sawankhalok still has many old shophouses, with some very old buildings in the area.

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In 2019, Sawankhalok initiated a street art project "Experiencing ASEAN Pop Culture" with artists from Singapore, Malaysia, Cambodia and Thailand, participating to decorate the old town.
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By Kenji Chai (Malaysia).
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By Jay (Thailand).
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By Peap Tarr and Lisa Mam (Cambodia).
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By Jackkrit Anantakul (Thailand).
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By Ceno2 (Singapore).
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Located on a corner of the old town is an interesting 90-year old "muang born" coffee shop. Hai Coffee Shop.
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Little has changed in the 90 years, just a generational change from Dad to son.
Some of the characters in the shop having been coming in for a cuppa decades.
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Some coffee muang boran utensils
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Incredible as I entered the coffeeshop & asked for a coffee in Thai, the guy sitting at the table on the right picked up on my Aussie accent & says "G'day mate, howya going". Oh well orright, how about you & the banter started. He had lived in Perth, my hometown, for a decade studying & working but was now back home In Sukhothai province. He had been a biker, owning a Hayabusa, Diavel & BMW SR1000, but now rode a Vespa, He owns a restaurant in Sukhothai, & a visit is due soon. Of note, his Mum & 2 or 3 sisters are all married and still living in Perth. It's a small world in Sawankhalok!


To be continued.
 

DavidFL

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My place of stay in Sawankhalaok was the Saengsin Hotel.
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An old classic hotel
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Good value for money @ 450 baht a night.


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The Yom river runs through Sawankhalok & there are several (6) bridges across the river.
Not all the bridges are for cars.

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Looking for a nice restaurant to eat at that night I ended up in the Sawankhalok night market & picked up a few bags of cheap food.
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To be continued.
 

DavidFL

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Interestingly enough my night in Sawankhalok was punctured by a visit to the Sawankhalaok hospital.

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Outside the Sawankhalok railway station, prior to hitting the walking street, I encountered a lady feeding her baby in a pram. The daughter seemed fascinated by the old grey haired farang, so I stopped to chat with mum & the amused daughter. We had an enjoyable few minutes chatting about life & being a farang in Thailand for 40 years. We said our bye byes, I got on the Nmax to ride off & I'd only gone 10 metres when I felt a few nips at my ankle. Yep, what I thought was her muzzled, pet dog was having a go at lung's thong clad feet. I accelerated & rode off, & not too bothered at the time. I couldn't see any blood & did not think that the muzzled mutt had done any real damage.
However after doing the rounds of the walking street, I started to feel a bit of discomfort in my left foot. Closer inspection indicated that yes, the skin was broken in 3 places & there were slight flesh wounds. No big deal I thought, off to the nearest pharmacy to get some saline & alchohol to clean it up, I can handle it ok.
However, the pharmacy had other ideas, they didn't want to sell me the requested items. Please go straight to the hospital now. Don't treat this yourself. Ok lung weakened & meekly went off to the local Sawankhalok hospital for a clean & checkup. Yes, the skin has been broken & yes, you need a series of injections. Straight into emergency now & get your first jabs, like a good patient sir. The doctor knows best, not you.
Oh well here we go. Two jabs, one in each arm, & three more to go. Roughly every 3 days. This could hurt a bit financially I thought......and the cost @ the Sawankhalaok hospital was 450 baht.
With a series of 4 jabs I figured it's going to cost me around 2500 baht, maybe more, I wouldn't mind getting that money back from the dog owner. So off to the Sawankhalok police station to make a complaint.

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The police were amused, silly old farang, but I insisted. Surprisingly they knew the dog & the location, so off we went 2 cops & lung.
We interviewed the claimed dog owner, yes, he knew the dog, but it wasn't his. It was a street dog, no owner, everyone in the street fed it. Strange I thought who muzzled it & why did it hang out at his shop. No response, but it is not my dog & not here now. The police smiled, oh well nothing we can do. Case closed & that was it.
The next morning before leaving Sawankhalok, I hung out for 30 minutes opposite the shop, hoping to see "man's best friend" & get a vdo clip to take to the police, but no such luck.
Be warned though, if you're ever in Sawankhalok & checking out the classic old railway station, watch out for the seemingly docile, white muzzled dog that likes to attack silently from behind.

to be continued..
 

DavidFL

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Day 4 Sawankhalok - Sisatchanalai.

Sawankhalok City. Sawankhalok has 2 interesting temples.

Wat Sawankharam, located on the west bank has an old colonial style building,
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Sadly I could not find the history of his locked building.
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On the grounds of the temple is also a historical exhibition house.
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Behind Wat Sawankharam, is the renowned Sawankhalok museum,
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It is open Wednesday – Sunday, 09.00 a.m. – 04.00 p.m, & a day late for me.

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There's a sensational tree in the grounds of the museum.
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Across the river on the east side, is the main wat of Sawankhalok. Wat Sawang Arom Worawihan,
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One of the salas had some impressive art work.
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Check it out sometime.
 
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DavidFL

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Day 4 Sawankhalok - Sisatchanalai.

In Sisatch my place of stay was the Smile Loft

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The big dinner night in SiSatch was at CSL for their 9th Birthday.
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It was a magic relaxed evening, to help Suwat & Bern celebrate the 9th Anniversary of CSL in Si Satchanalai.
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DavidFL

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Day 5 Si Satchanalai - Lampang via Wang Chin city.

Not far, but a day I was looking forward to having marked a couple of places to check out along the way.
Hot springs was option 1and option 2 was chocolate.

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Funnily enough over brekky whilst searching for the location of the Mae Chok hot springs


I came across some other pics of a new garden & what looked like hot springs too.
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That's the new baby on the block. Lets go check 'em out
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Enter the Mae Sin hot springs park. Open only 3 months as I found out.

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The open air onsen
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I had an enjoyable time here hanging out with the female staff at their food & drink stalls, with some flirtatious single mums obviously in search of a new husband it seemed.

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to be continued.
 
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DavidFL

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Day 5 Si Satchanalai - Wang Chin - Lampang.
In search of chocolate.


On the morning of day 2 over breakfast at the Gingerbread in Phrae I was given some 100% chocolate to sample, & asked if I knew about the Phrae cocoa & chocolate farm.
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Nope never heard of that one, but I know some in Nan + Cocoa land Farm in Chiang Rai.
It is Wang Chin, not far.
55 Wang Chin I thought, that's outer Phrae province, but yes it in in Phrae.
Do you know the location? No, but we can find it on google maps, & nope we couldn't find it - it isn't even on Google maps, but there's a phone number.
OK, there's challenge for me & Inspector Clouseau I thought.
So, whilst at the Mae Sin hot springs I ring ahead to the number to ask for the location of the Wangcome Cocoa Farm.
Where are you?
We are in Wang Chin city?
You're cococa farm is in Wang Chin city??
Yes, Wang Chin city. Just go to the Wang Chin 7-11 & ask for our cocoa farm?
WTF I thought. Cocoa farm in the city????
OK, OK I give up, but let's try the 7-11 for a cocoa farm in the hills. 55

All I have to go on is a Facebook page, with a phone number, that's missing a few details - a real address & a google maps location.
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Arriving in Wang Chin city for the first time & a fossick around, it's easy to get lost & not be sure which part of town you're in.

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This only happens in Phrae & Nan for me, although I've got both those towns pretty well sussed out now after a couple of decades of confusion!
I'm a bit hot under the collar riding around in circles without being able to spot the 7-11. What a joke you might say, cant find the 1 7-11 in town? I was about give up, when hey presto up pops a 7-11.
There's a policeman in the street sitting nonchalantly outside a bank, a quick u-turn outside the bank sees me pull up right beside the cop & he gets taken back with surprise, if not shock, by the hot & bothered farang on a bike, asking for the Wangcome cocoa farm. Nope never heard of it.
I show him the facebook page & he disappears inside the bank with my phone. A few minutes later he comes back & says follow me. He walks off to get his bike I assume, so I kit up & get ready to go. But no, the policeman just walks around the corner of the 7-11 & 50 meters down a soi to point out to a building on the corner.
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Voila the Wangcome cocoa & chocolate farm. And the policeman has learned something today too.

The Wangcome Cocoa farm has been going for 4 years & is run by Mrs Noi & her husband.
Noi is from Sung Men, near Phrae & hubby is from Wang Chin.
Noi graduated as a nurse & went work at the Wang Chin hospital where she met her husband.
Tired of nursing after many years they decided to branch out & started a cocoa farm. Khun Noi looks after the chocolate side of biz & hubby looks after the farm.
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Noi is a very bubbly personality & is only too happy to show you her chocolate making process & products.

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Cocoa juice.
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She also bakes bread a couple of days a week.
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The 100% chocolate is a bit strong for a weak old fellah like me, but she also has 85% & 72% chocolate.
What impressed me most though, were the "Roche" chocolate balls & I've since placed an order since my return to Chiang Khong.
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Highly recommended. Check 'em out sometime.
 
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DavidFL

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Day 5 Si Satchanalai - Lampang via Wang Chin city. Part 2.
In search of chocolate.


On the morning of day 2 over breakfast at the Gingerbread in Phrae I was given some 100% chocolate to sample, & asked if I knew about the Phrae cocoa & chocolate farm.
View attachment 150921

Nope never heard of that one, but I know some in Nan + Cocoaland Farm in Chiang Rai.
It is Wang Chin, not far.
55 Wang Chin I thought, that's outer Phrae province, but yes it in in Phrae.
Do you know the location? No, but we can find it on google maps, & nope we couldn't find it - it isn't even on Google maps, but there's a phone number.
OK, there's challenge for me & Inspector Clouseau I thought.
So, whilst at the Mae Sin hot springs I ring ahead to the number to ask for the location of the Wangcome Cocoa Farm.
Where are you?
We are in Wang Chin city?
You're cococa farm is in Wang Chin city??
Yes, Wang Chin city. Just go to the Wang Chin 7-11 & ask for our cocoa farm?
WTF I thought. Cocoa farm in the city????
OK, OK I give up, but let's try the 7-11 for a cocoa farm in the hills. 55

All I have to go on is a Facebook page, with a phone number, that's missing a few details - a real address & a google maps location.
View attachment 150923

Arriving in Wang Chin city for the first time & a fossick around, it's easy to get lost & not be sure which part of town you're in.

View attachment 150926

This only happens in Phrae & Nan for me, although I've got both those towns pretty well sussed out now after a couple of decades of confusion!
I'm a bit hot under the collar riding around in circles without being able to spot the 7-11. What a joke you might say, cant find the 1 7-11 in town? I was about give up, when hey presto up pops a 7-11.
There's a policeman in the street sitting nonchalantly outside a bank, a quick u-turn outside the bank sees me pull up right beside the cop & he gets taken back with surprise, if not shock, by the hot & bothered farang on a bike, asking for the Wangcome cocoa farm. Nope never heard of it.
I show him the facebook page & he disappears inside the bank with my phone. A few minutes later he comes back & says follow me. He walks off to get his bike I assume, so I kit up & get ready to go. But no, the policeman just walks around the corner of the 7-11 & 50 meters down a soi to point out to a building on the corner.
View attachment 150924
Voila the Wangcome cocoa & chocolate farm. And the policeman has learned something today too.

The Wangcome Cocoa farm has been going for 4 years & is run by Mrs Noi & her husband. Noi is from Sung Men, near Phrae & hubby is from Wang Chin. Noi graduated as a nurse & went work at the Wang Chin hospital where she met her husband. Tired of nursing after many years they decided to branch out & started a cocoa farm. Khun Noi looks after the chocolate side of biz & hubby looks after the farm.
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Noi is a very bubbly personality & is only too happy to show you her chocolate making process & products.

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Cocoa juice
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She also bakes bread a couple of days a week
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The 100% chocolate is a bit strong for a weak old fellah like me, but she also has 85% & 72% chocolate.
What impressed me most though, were the "Roche" chocolate balls & I've since placed an order since my return to Chiang Khong.
View attachment 150938

View attachment 150939

Highly recommended. Check em out sometime.

Re-confirmed the chocolate balls are excellent & delivered fast in 24 hrs in perfect condition.

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EMS postage works fine.
Absolutely no issues.

Contact
Wangcome Cocoa Farm
 
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