6 days Phitakhon, Maekong, ancient Sukhothai, Phrae/Phayao & back home

[Franz]

Planned this for some time as Boy wanted to see Phitakhon in Dansai this year before he starts his job training. When trying to book a room for us 4 months ago, Dansai was already full as was Phu Ruea so got a cheap room in Nakhonthai some 45 kms away. Started morning in Chiang Dao and arrived early afternoon in Nakhonthai.

Took the usual Chiang Mai-Lampang-Denchai-Uttaradit route and then crosscountry to our first accommodation at the Phet Garden 1 Resort. Traffic was quite dense as a lot of small-bike groups heading the same direction.
As we arrived early, we decided to ride up Phu Hin Rongkla in the afternoon but couldn't continue up to Phu Thap Berk as very dense fog made it impossible to enjoy riding. Additionally i did forget to fill up my tank before....

On the way down we stopped at a waterfall that told us to walk horizontally for 220 meters. Actually the 220m were vertical with a very slippery jungle track and steps as high as 80 cms. The waterfall was beautiful and worth the effort.

Man Daeng Waterfall · Dan Sai District, Loei

maps.app.goo.gl

Be prepared to have a very tiring walk to Man Daeng Waterfall
We then continued back to Nakhonthai and found it very difficult to find a suitable restaurant but with the help of another small street kitchen owner we found this one:

Than Khun Kitchen Food Garden Restaurant, Nakhon Thai Town · Nakhon Thai District, Phitsanulok

maps.app.goo.gl

Than Khun Kitchen Food Garden served delicious food for a low price but have some moscito repellent handy as it is surrounded by wetlands.

It is necessary to note that obviously all 'dek waen' were on their modified and sometimes sinfully loud scooters from all over the country heading all to Dansai. I was really happy to see them all packed up and having the time of their life with a total budget for the whole trip of less of what i spend on a day.......

I am not back home yet but will post more once i am not on my 'big blue'
To be continued..........

 

[Franz]

We were awoken early on Sunday 29th as starting at 05:00 we heard a constant flow of Waves, Filanos, Scoopies making noise as they started moving to Dansai. We too left but at 08:00 before the big wave of traffic moved. Arriving at Dansai we already passed cars and bikes parked on both sides of the road and luckily found a safe parking at the main junction for B50.- per bike.

We walked around 15 minutes to the road where Phitakon was supposed to take place.

It was just amazing how many people were already walking there. Both sides of the road were packed full with shops, nowhere to sit and worse, nowhere to throw your trash into a bin. After a while i decided to sit at a beer venue as i am not comfortable being boxed in on all sides by people.
After watching parts of the procession we decided to call it quits as the stream of humans intensified and even Boy got uncomfortable. I do not think that i will go there again as i am not comfortable with such masses of people.

It took us then 50 minutes to just get out of Dansai and we were lucky still because in around 1 hour later everything was stuck still until late evening.

We left for Chiang Khan using the #2114 & 2195 which are all along the Huang and finally the Maekong. Beautiful, less travelled rural roads. Arriving at Chiang Khan which was packed with travellers too, we checked into our hotel which i cannot recommend as a steel profile/hardboard construction and therefor not insulated and aircon not very effective, too noisy too. We had no choice as all rooms facing the big river were fully booked since months.

We went by bike along the river to the famous walking street there. Food we got here:

Heon Luangprabang · Chiang Khan District, Loei

maps.app.goo.gl

Including Beer Lao.....

After this we had big bottles of Beer Lao Lager at this lovely small beer outlet:

Beer was cheap and the view just amazing. All the 'dek waen' had parked their bikes in front of their small hotel and had to partly repair them there, cleaning was also done on the spot

I am sure to return to Chiang Khan as it is a real lovely town with beautiful surroundings.

We then called it quits after too many bottles (Boy had a hefty argument with the toilet 5555) as the next day we wanted to go to Sukhothai.

To be continued......

 

[Franz]

Wanting to avoid Dansai at any costs on our way to Sukhothai we choose the diretissima from Chiang Khan to Loei the #201, then to Phu Ruea/Lomsak on the #21, from there the #12 all the way via Philok to Sukhothai.

And again hundreds of small scoots on any section of the road, sometimes in swarms of 20 or 30. Especially up the #12 from Lomsak to the Phu Thab Berk turnoff, everywhere selfie artists, either while riding with one hand and the other holding their mobiles or clogging any parking space available.

One thing i did not like with the Dek Waen is the fact that most removed their mirrors, then the deafening sound of their "through pipes" without mufflers makes them "Zombies on bikes", they do not see nor hear anybody else. So its me that had to pass them in a wide berth, afraid that they get startled and lose control of their small bikes. Worsened through the fact that helmets are for some luxury they can't afford, hell, no gloves and wearing flip flops are common. Some cheap PVC containers stripped somehow onto the tiny back seat of their scooties 5555, still i love their spirit, it's so different to BKK folks in their black 'hiso' Beemers, Benzes and Alphards......

Finally we arrived near the historical park in Sukhothai and checked into the nearby Sawasdee Resort. A real nice layout with individual bungalows, a nice open restaurant and a big swimming pool.

Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort · Mueang Sukhothai District, Sukhothai

maps.app.goo.gl

From there it's just a short drive to the park entrance (B200.-). It's huge and beautiful, even outside where you do not have to pay it's really magnificient. This town goes back to the 12th century......

Outside the historical park (Unesco heritage site) there's a lot of eateries, bicycles and tuktuks to be rented everywhere so although some 10 kms from Sukhothai one is really free to chose the kind of local transport there and no need to go into town.
Of course there would have bern Si Satchanalai historical park but keep that one for later and also some sites at Thung Saliam. All goes back to King Ramkamhaeng...
We took then the 1113 & 101 up to near Denchai where we parted as Boy had to hurry back home and taking care of our doggie, preparing the house & garden and awaiting his g/f to arrive.
Me i carried on to Phrae.
Being full with rice i craved for western food so dinner at this steakhouse it was:

T-Bone Steak House Phrae · Mueang Phrae District, Phrae

maps.app.goo.gl

Just next to it is a new place called BOSTON Steak House........
Then onto the near empty Maeyom Place Hotel for the night, reason i like to stay there is because some nice night spots are just opposite the hotel on the access road to the busstation. Maeyom Palace Hotel · Mueang Phrae District, Phrae
Had several Beer Lao there and enjoyed the Live music at

Jod&Friends · Mueang Phrae District, Phrae

maps.app.goo.gl

Opposite the Jod&Friends bar where i did sit is the Phrae 'Tha Chang' a famous nightspot for example in CNX. And at the last picture you can see the Maeyom Place Hotel.
The short 200m walk back to the still empty Maeyom Place Hotel made me wonder when and if at all the current economical situation will improve as most places were nearly empty.

Today woke up late and had a slower paced ride from Phrae to Phayao. Did come up the #101, 103 & 1. Be advised that the #103 is a big construction site now between in the mountains after Song to nearby Ngao. Road is full of some bad parts and dirt everywhere so please be careful when riding there.
In Phayao i stay at my favourite lake side Hotennnn the Phuglong:

Phu Klong Hotel · Mueang Phayao District, Phayao

maps.app.goo.gl

As also here everything is in walking distance, tonight i will enjoy the view from the rooftop at the Pheun:

Pheun Rooftop View · Mueang Phayao District, Phayao

maps.app.goo.gl

I am a 'don't drink and drive' guy.....keeps me safe and healthy.
Tomorrow i will leave early for home via Wiangpapao and Phrao but as the weathergods have been good to me so far i doubt that i still will be lucky tomorrow...... knock on wood.
Finally i enjoyed this trip very much and there are more to come as i regained my freedom again from corporate regulations, reporting madness, slavery and greed.......
Enjoy the biking the same way i did years ago when still working in Rayong and Lamphun.

So let's get more busy again and enjoy life and biking as this country we call our second home is beautiful and the locals are lovely...........

 

[Franz]

To conclude this trip report some more info: we left on Sat 28.6. and i return on Thu 3.7.
Total kilometers driven: 1,640 (extrapolated Chiang Dao return). Petrol used ~ 90 liters which are around THB 3,000.- Gasohol 95. As i am not known to ride like a snail the 'big blue' needed around 5.5 liters/100 km on this tour. Hotels we slept were between THB 750.- to 1,250.- a night with only today an exception at around 1,750.-. Entrances for farang at Phu Hin Rongkla N.P. and Sukhothai Historical Park were each THB 200.-. They were worth the money as both well kept and although i have been working and paying taxes here for more than a quarter century i do not complain about this higher than local fees.

 

[Wayne66]

Nice trip Franz
Sukhothai is a great Historical Park
Pity you couldn't have stop for a brew at the coffee shop on your way south from Chiang Khan.
Next time you're coming south from Loei continue to Wang Saphung and get on the 2016 then the 2216, much better roads imo

Wayne

 

[Franz]

Thanks Wayne, new trip to see my former workplace in Rayong and visit friends in Muaklek and Udon is in planning and at that trip i will be sure coming to see you on the way. This time my available timeframe was limited so i couldnt go the Chumpae way. Will try these roads you mentioned. Rgds, FR

 

[DavidFL]

We were awoken early on Sunday 29th as starting at 05:00 we heard a constant flow of Waves, Filanos, Scoopies making noise as they started moving to Dansai. We too left but at 08:00 before the big wave of traffic moved. Arriving at Dansai we already passed cars and bikes parked on both sides of the road and luckily found a safe parking at the main junction for B50.- per bike.
View attachment 160052
We walked around 15 minutes to the road where Phitakon was supposed to take place.
View attachment 160053
It was just amazing how many people were already walking there. Both sides of the road were packed full with shops, nowhere to sit and worse, nowhere to throw your trash into a bin. After a while i decided to sit at a beer venue as i am not comfortable being boxed in on all sides by people.
After watching parts of the procession we decided to call it quits as the stream of humans intensified and even Boy got uncomfortable. I do not think that i will go there again as i am not comfortable with such masses of people.
View attachment 160054
It took us then 50 minutes to just get out of Dansai and we were lucky still because in around 1 hour later everything was stuck still until late evening.

We left for Chiang Khan using the #2114 & 2195 which are all along the Huang and finally the Maekong. Beautiful, less travelled rural roads. Arriving at Chiang Khan which was packed with travellers too, we checked into our hotel which i cannot recommend as a steel profile/hardboard construction and therefor not insulated and aircon not very effective, too noisy too. We had no choice as all rooms facing the big river were fully booked since months.
View attachment 160055
We went by bike along the river to the famous walking street there. Food we got here:

Heon Luangprabang · Chiang Khan District, Loei

maps.app.goo.gl

Including Beer Lao.....
View attachment 160057
After this we had big bottles of Beer Lao Lager at this lovely small beer outlet:
View attachment 160056
View attachment 160059
View attachment 160060
Beer was cheap and the view just amazing. All the 'dek waen' had parked their bikes in front of their small hotel and had to partly repair them there, cleaning was also done on the spot
View attachment 160058
I am sure to return to Chiang Khan as it is a real lovely town with beautiful surroundings.

We then called it quits after too many bottles (Boy had a hefty argument with the toilet 5555) as the next day we wanted to go to Sukhothai.

To be continued......

Yeah Phi Ta Khon is really something special, but finally it looks like the social media - Instagram - tik tok crowds have overwhelmed the festival.
I wonder how it will be next year - will the crowds be down , or more of the same?
As the event has developed, the thousands of young people on their hotted up scooters have become a highlight of the event for me.

The place you are at in Chiang Khan looks perfect, and I will bookmark that one for my next trip there.

 

[Franz]

Chiang Khan is really a town that gets you charmed once you enter it, will not be the first and only time i will be there. Next trip will be down to Eastern TH but on the way up will check out Wayne's coffeeahop, see a friend in Udon and then spend at least 2 nights in Chiang Khan.

 

[DavidFL]

We were awoken early on Sunday 29th as starting at 05:00 we heard a constant flow of Waves, Filanos, Scoopies making noise as they started moving to Dansai. We too left but at 08:00 before the big wave of traffic moved. Arriving at Dansai we already passed cars and bikes parked on both sides of the road and luckily found a safe parking at the main junction for B50.- per bike.
View attachment 160052
We walked around 15 minutes to the road where Phitakon was supposed to take place.
View attachment 160053
It was just amazing how many people were already walking there. Both sides of the road were packed full with shops, nowhere to sit and worse, nowhere to throw your trash into a bin. After a while i decided to sit at a beer venue as i am not comfortable being boxed in on all sides by people.
After watching parts of the procession we decided to call it quits as the stream of humans intensified and even Boy got uncomfortable. I do not think that i will go there again as i am not comfortable with such masses of people.
View attachment 160054
It took us then 50 minutes to just get out of Dansai and we were lucky still because in around 1 hour later everything was stuck still until late evening.

We left for Chiang Khan using the #2114 & 2195 which are all along the Huang and finally the Maekong. Beautiful, less travelled rural roads. Arriving at Chiang Khan which was packed with travellers too, we checked into our hotel which i cannot recommend as a steel profile/hardboard construction and therefor not insulated and aircon not very effective, too noisy too. We had no choice as all rooms facing the big river were fully booked since months.
View attachment 160055
We went by bike along the river to the famous walking street there. Food we got here:

Heon Luangprabang · Chiang Khan District, Loei

maps.app.goo.gl

Including Beer Lao.....
View attachment 160057
After this we had big bottles of Beer Lao Lager at this lovely small beer outlet:
View attachment 160056
View attachment 160059
View attachment 160060
Beer was cheap and the view just amazing. All the 'dek waen' had parked their bikes in front of their small hotel and had to partly repair them there, cleaning was also done on the spot
View attachment 160058
I am sure to return to Chiang Khan as it is a real lovely town with beautiful surroundings.

We then called it quits after too many bottles (Boy had a hefty argument with the toilet 5555) as the next day we wanted to go to Sukhothai.

To be continued......

If you take the 2114 from Dan Sai again, you may want to check out this amazing "new" temple.

Wat Sawang Arom · Highway 2114 , Na Di , 42120 Dan Sai , Loei, Thailand

★★★★★ · Place of worship

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Franz]

Beautiful, looks something a little 'Khmer' style, need to check it next time when i come back that way from Udon. This whole area from Chiang Khan to Phu Ruea to Phu Tab Berk needs closer inspection. Need to go other roads than Lomsak - Philok as that one leaves me no choice as i get an itchy right hand every time i use it 5555555555.