I was asked to submit a report about a recent GTR meet. I'm now used to writing something short and sweet to accompany photos for a Facebook post. Perhaps people don't have the time or attention span to read more than a couple of lines of text. But I think there's still a few that enjoy a good read (but don't expect Pulitzer prize material!). So, here's a chance for me to expand a little, share some knowledge and experiences.
GTR dinner and Sek Loso concert, Chiang Khong on Sunday 19th March 2023
Having been to a few GTR meets in a car, which greatly suits my other half, it seemed only proper to go to this GTR meet on a motorcycle. Unfortunately, due to a Thruxton, Toyota Altis & truck interface issue I still can't ride my bike. I decided to contact Brian Wyatt at Chiang Rai Big Bikes to see if he had anything suitable. I've known Brian for years and I have hired a good few of his bikes. On the Sunday I arrived to pick up the bike. I was going to have the ER6n, but that was having it's fork seals changed. So, I was reacquainted with an old flame, the black Versys with the Corbin saddle. I pretty sure it's the bike to took me to Buriram for the inaugural MotoGP race in 2018. Also, a little more recently, a “Mae Hong Son Loop” trip. I've weaned myself off big bore sports bikes, but I still prefer a sporty riding position and flat seats. This bike has risers and a stepped seat, so an instant dislike until I could get used to it again. But the large adjustable Givi screen just had to go, I couldn't find a good position for this turbulence and noise generator. I just removed it when I got home.
I set off from just outside Chiang Rai on a favourite route of mine. This is the 1173 (Srivhiang Road) to Wiang Chai. The road takes a 90 degree left in the town then north east. There's a few straights were you can “open her up'' and some entertaining corners, especially the one just after Mueang Chum. Then it's a 90 degree right turn on to the 1326 heading for Phaya Meng Rai. There's more fun corners on this stretch, not unlike some sections of the Isle of Man course, but applying much more caution through the villages! In Mae Po you meet up with the 1152 dual carriageway bypassing Phaya Meng Rai and heading east. This road means you can “really make progress”, but after the initial curves it's flat and straight. Usually the highlight of travelling on this road is watching the mountain range looming up, except this time of the year it's all shrouded in smoke.
Another 90 degree turn, this time left and heading north on AH3 better known as the 1020. With farmland on your left, the mountains on your right and with a mostly a decent road surface, it's a steady cruise up to Chiang Khong. How glad I was that I'd removed that screen. We're now in the hot season and every bit of cooling air is welcome. I'm just happy that I don't have a biking land yacht with acres of plastic in front of me! So, I arrived into Chiang Khong reasonably fresh. My hotel requirement was taken care of with a stay at the Baan Tammila Guesthouse. My first time there, it really has a certain charm, relaxing, rustic and peaceful. My room was clean, the bed comfortable and had a great view of the mighty Mekong River. I didn't get to try the highly recommended food, but the coffee was really good. Also staying there was Tim Stanley and Jan. I hadn't met them before. We met up with David Unkovich there and headed off to eat.
Dinner was at the View Khong restaurant upstream from Chiang Khong. As you would expect it has a splendid view of the Mekong. The table was soon filled with tasty Thai food, as were our bellies! Various blends of whiskey were distributed and consumed too. I was glad to discover that Tim is a total petrol head, so we had plenty to talk about. Then it was off to gig which was at a new venue called the Thung Chang just south of Chiang Khong. There's the main building, a covered stage and a large terraced area with the tables and seating. Also joining us for the evening was Alex and Lynn Brodard, I hadn't met them before either. We all really enjoyed the bands.
The headlining act was Thailand's infamous Sek Loso. I was into the original Loso band right from when I heard their Red Album in 2001. I soon bought all their previous albums and got involved with English speaking website for the band. The band's singer/guitarist/songwriter Seksan Sukpimai split the band at their height of popularity. He headed to London “to go international' and it was there that I met him and the rest of the band who were all Brits. I became good friends with the band and we met up again in Bahrain and many gigs in Bangkok over the years. Sek has been off the rails a few times in true rock star fashion, but I'm happy that he got it all back together and started touring again. Given the mainly young audience that evening, his music is timeless and virtually every song he plays is a classic.
As to beat the rush we all left just before the last couple of songs and headed back to the bright lights of Chiang Khong. One of the best bars there is the Chiang Roy Pub. You don't have to like the Liverpool football club, but if you walked in with a team shirt on, you'd be treated like one of the players showing up! Apart from good food, they have an excellent selection of beers. So if you want something other than the standard issue Chang, Leo or Singha then no problem. We all signed off a great evening there.
The Monday morning was somewhat blurry and I don't mean from the smoke from something else burning in Laos! We all met up again at 10am and saddled up for a trip to Chiang Saen. The couples headed off in their cars. David Unkovich had brought his trusty and battle scarred Suzuki V-Strom. I followed him for the trip, as he must have done the Paradise Road hundreds of times and knew all the lines. I liken this road to a combination of the Laguna Seca Circuit, Cadwell Park, and the Portimao Circuit. Mainly it's a lot of fun, most rewarding when you get the corners right and with breathtaking views. There are some sections where the corners have been machine scored. This is zero fun for a bike, but vital to prevent the cars with decade old, rock hard tyres skidding off when it rains and the grip coefficient is like greased ice cubes.
Before we knew it we were through Chiang Saen and to a favourite breakfast destination, the Flow Chiang Saen. Sitting outside on the long veranda with a fabulous view of the Mekong and overlooking the sin city that is Laos Vegas. The almond croissants are to die for and the full English breakfast is pretty good too, all washed down with more coffee. It was a pleasant way to end another GTR meet and then we all went our separate ways. In my case a dull, but fastest journey to return the bike to Chiang Rai. Well that's it, I hope that you enjoyed my first GTR report!
This photo courtesy of Dave Unkovich
