Chiang Khong - Luang Prabang a 2025 Meander

DavidFL

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It's time for another ride to Luang Prabang to catch up with friends and continue searching for a one-year multiple-entry visa.

It was a lazy start from Chiang Khong in the early afternoon with Pua as the planned destination for the night.

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Chiang Khong - Pua = 231 kms via R1020 / 1021 / 1148 / 101.
I was not in a rush, as I knew I would be in Pua well before dark; it was a gentle ride.
Ex Chiang Khong at 12.40PM.
Arrival in Pua at 5.30PM.
The first stop for a late brunch was the Carrot in Chiang Kham, then onto 1148 and a bit of the old warmth and haze.
There was no stop at Magic Mountain for a cuppa or a photo due the less than optimal conditions.
The first photo stop was near Sakoen in 1148 for a few traditional snaps of the Sakoen karsts.

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Further on, up and over the mountain ridgeline separating Phayao and Nan provinces, was a second stop in tiny litle hamlet of PhaLak.
Its a year since Ive been in Pha Lak, and wow, I noticed this little pit stop town is booming.

The new Rim Nam Coffee was the place to be for me, since the 1148 coffee has closed.
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1.5 hrs later, after a glorious swooping ride down R1148 & R101, I reached Pua City.
Pua has become part of the amazing Nan tourism boom, although some locals claim that Pua is not so busy anymore as Bo Klua and Saphan have taken over as the new fashion destinations to be. Watch out for a new GTR Nan Loop guide map coming in the next few months.

The earlier boom in Pua pushed accommodation prices up, and with the old GTR fellah having a preferred budget cap of 600 baht, its not so easy getting what I consider to be value-for-money accommodation. I've noted the last few years that Bangkok Thais will pay more for accommodation than us poor retired farang expats, and they don't bargain on the prices! The Chomphu Phukha used to be my preferred place of stay in Pua, but they jacked the prices up with no room improvements, so I moved, and the Sarangoon is my preferred cheap Charlie value-for-money place to stay at 400 baht a night, with aircon, hot water, and secure undercover parking.

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A lengthy power nap on arrival saw me out a bit late to eat at my preferred restaurant, which had already closed.
La Cuisine was the desired but closed restaurant.
A few hundred metres later, I settled for the MN Store mini mart & booze shop.

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They have a nice little choice of hooch, plus a cool seating area outside for some ma la BBQ and the super friendly locals chatting.
I joined them for a beer and some BBQ to kill for 45 minutes.


Briefly satiated at the MN Store, it was time to hit the Pua goldmine, known as Seeds Pub.
This place has been hugely popular in Pua, with great bands, service, singers, and always a good night out.
Don't miss it if you're spending a night in Pua!

The Seeds Singers
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Ms Emmy & the old GTR Fellah.
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Emmy I have known for 14 years since she first started singing and playing the guitar at the Nan Riverside Pub by the prison in downtown Nan.
She's got a great personality, and a beautiful voice, and still loves to sing and entertain people.
Emmy has not lost the fire for being an artist, despite being a mum now and having curfew hours from hubby when she must be home by. No more late-night partying after work.
 
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DavidFL

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Part 2 Pua - Hongsa. 118 kms.

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Departure Pua = 9.15AM
Arrival Hongsa Hotel =3.40PM

Breakfast was at the PTT Amazon Pua city, and I have to say the chicks here are the friendliest Amazon gals I have ever met in my PTT Amazon wanderings.

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Pua-Huay Kon and the Thai-Lao Border = 77 km.

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Departure from Pua = 9.15AM
Arrival at Hua Kon = 12.00PM
Just in time for lunch. 55
It was a leisurely ride up the R101, taking photos of the roadworks and improvements.
I managed 72 photos along the way, so their definitely was no rush!


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When the road works are all complete, I reckon R101 Pua-Huay Kon is going to be the greatest road and ride in North Thailand.

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A year on from the last visit, this border crossing seems to be booming as well with trade.
The same ride in 204

The 7-11 is doing a roaring business, & there were lots of pedestrian vendors coming over to buy and sell whilst I was there getting my paperwork done.

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Getting into Laos from Huay Kon is always a challenge.
1. There is no Laos visa on arrival.
2. There is no Loa Evisa accepted at Muang Ngeun on the Laos side. And the same applies for all the Xayaburi province international border crossings with Thailand. There are four of them. Huak/Pangmone, Huay Kon/Muang Ngeun, Phu Du, Nakraseng/Kenthao.
3. You need a bike tour permit to enter Laos through any Xayaboury province international border crossing.

In short Xayaboury province in Laos is a total pain the arse to enter with a motorbike.

I got around the visa issue by getting a multiple-entry tourist visa issued in Bangkok in December; details here.

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I had tried to get my regular bike permit agent to get me in at Pangmone for a "friendship price," but we were not successful.
Should anyone have a visa in advance and want to enter Laos from Phayao province at the international border crossing of Huak/Pangmone, you can try this local agent in Muang Khop/Pangmone for 2,000 baht a bike.

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FB Sinxai Phaengkhummee

Paperwork was done on the Thai side; after I confirmed with them I would be able to enter at Muang Ngeun, it was time to tackle the Laos bureaucracy.

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We had an amusing misunderstanding at first when I said that I would depart from Pangmone, and the officer said I entered from Pangmone & he demanded to see my paperwork, for which I had none. He refused to listen to me again, so eventually another officer came and understood clearly that I wanted to enter at Muang Ngeun and depart from Pangmone.

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A generous tip was left for the senior police officer, and after 45 minutes I was clear to enter Laos and on my way to Hongsa City for the night.

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The Alounvan was my place of stay as the most convenient, value-for-money establishment in town.

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Fifty metres away was a great liquor store

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I scored a litre of Bushmills Irish Honey for 940 baht.

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Some people ask why I always carry whisky with me, because I'm an alcoholic?
No, because it is the cheapest way to drink.
99% of the time in Thailand and Laos, there is no cover charge; you only pay for mixers, ice & soda/Coke.
A bottle can last you for a week, or more, if your "friends" are not helping themselves.
Also, if you know your hooch, which one to drink, you don't get hangovers. Drink the thing all night, no mixing drinks and you are always good to go the next day.

The other direction is the Mae Bua Kham restaurant, a favourite eating spot in Hongsa City.

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