2014 GTR Mekong Boat trip. Part 2. Luang Prabang - Sayabouly Dam - Pak Lay

DavidFL

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The bikes are loaded on board the day before

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Then the next day, its an early start again. Up at first light

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& we're sailing as the sun comes up over the mountains.

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more to come..
 

DavidFL

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Away we go...more river & rock scenes....watching life in a time warp go by.

Slightly foggy & first

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Then it clears up beautifully for awhile

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The river littered with rocks & hazards

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The fog starts to set in

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& we have to take a long break until it clears & is safe to move on down through the rocky channel

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River life

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Approaching the Sayabouly bridge over the Mekong

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It actually looks sort of weak from this angle

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The Sayabouly old ferry landing

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DavidFL

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Some thoughts on the dam by another expert

By Zeb Hogan
Assistant Research Professor, University of Nevada
It's unclear why so many species of giant fish occur in the Mekong River, the 2,700-mile (4,350-kilometer) river that runs from southern China to the delta south of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Certainly part of the answer is the river's size: Large rivers have more space and more food to accommodate larger fish.

Another part of the answer may lie in the productivity of the Mekong River Basin ecosystem, including the floodplains and flooded forests that provide an abundant source of food for many species of fish during the rainy season.

The Mekong River is also—depending on whom you ask—either the second or third most biodiverse river on Earth (in terms of freshwater fish) and it's logical that a river with so many species of fish would also support several species of giants.

Not only is the diversity of large fishes found in the Mekong amazing, so is these fishes' persistence, given the number of people who live on the river and the level of fisheries’ exploitation. It just goes to show that fish populations can be remarkably resilient: It's not typically overfishing that drives species to extinction. Usually, it’s habitat degradation or invasive species.

In this sense, the Mekong River is still a relatively healthy, natural, free-flowing river—a river that, in large part due to the fact that most habitats and connections between habitats are still intact—is still capable of producing 2,500,000 million tons of fish a year. That makes it the most productive river in the world.

Given that the Mekong does produce so much fish, it's not unreasonable to question whether the benefits of proposed dam projects will outweigh the environmental costs. It's a question that needs to be answered (and will require more study) before construction of the dams moves forward.

The hydropower dam planned on the Mekong River in Sayabouly Province, northern Laos, is a threat to the survival of the wild population of Mekong giant catfish. Under threat are the suspected spawning locations for many species of fish. The Sayabouly dam is the first lower Mekong River mainstream dam to enter a critical stage of assessment before construction is approved by the Mekong River Commission, which includes representatives from Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam, according to a recent World Wildlife Fund (WWF) report on the ecological implications of new dam projects.

The other dam closest to being approved is the Sahong. The Sahong channel is the most important migratory pathway in Southern Laos.

WWF is absolutely correct to suspect that mainstream Mekong dams will have deleterious effects on the giant fish of the Mekong. Almost all of the information that we have about these species (e.g. the Mekong giant catfish is highly migratory, endemic to the Mekong, seems to need specific cues to spawn, cannot reproduce in reservoirs, and probably spawns in northern Thailand and in Laos), suggests that the Sayabory dam and other Mekong dams will have serious negative impacts.

The same is true of other species of Mekong giants: We know very little about the ecology of these species and what we do know suggests that they need healthy, free-flowing rivers to survive.

Without further study, it's highly likely that mainstream dams will drive at least one, if not all, of these species to extinction. We've seen something similar happen on the Yangtze where the two largest species in that river are now in grave danger after dam construction (one, the Chinese paddlefish, may already be extinct).

Beyond dams, the other threats to the Mekong’s megafish include over-harvest (which has already brought populations of giant Mekong species to very low levels), habitat degradation (such as dredging and blasting upstream of the only known spawning ground of Mekong giant catfish), and invasive species.

One of the largest fish in the world, the Mekong giant catfish can reach 10 feet (3 meters) long and weigh up to 650 pounds (300 kilograms). This critically endangered species has suffered from all of the above—overfishing, dam building, and habitat destruction.

The risk of losing these fish before we understand them—and the threats they face—cannot be overstated.

Up to 80 percent of Mekong giant fish are at risk of extinction.

Several large-bodied catfish of the Mekong are migratory.

Mekong giant catfish, "dog-eating" catfish, and giant barb (Catlocarpio siamensis) are extremely rare, with only 5-10 adult fish caught per year.

Mitigation

There are several actions that would help ensure the survival of the giant fish species of the Mekong, including:

• Maintenance of connectivity between rearing grounds and spawning habitat: Many species of Mekong fish have complex life cycles that involve long-distance migrations. Maintenance of migratory pathways is crucial.

• Management of the river for environmental flows: Both the fish and the fisherfolk of the Mekong rely on the natural dry season, rainy season cycle. Flows often cue fish to migrate or spawn and the high flows of the rainy season open up vast habitats for feeding fish. Likewise, local people have invented all manner of ingenious ways of catching fish and most of these methods are adapted to a specific site, flow, and time of year.

• Regulation and monitoring of harvest: Over-harvest is a serious threat to the Mekong's largest, longest-lived, and most vulnerable species. In areas with heavy fishing pressure (and that includes virtually the entire Mekong Basin), catch of the largest fish must be regulated to ensure their survival. Lessons from other parts of the world indicate that relatively slow-growing large-bodied fish cannot sustain heavy fishing pressure indefinitely.

• Research and decision-making based on research: This may seem like standard scientist-speak, but research on the ecology and conservation status of giant fish is urgently needed in the Mekong River Basin. The "dog-eating" catfish (Pangasius sanitwongsei) is a case in point. We know almost nothing about its ecology or conservation status and yet it is undoubtedly one of the largest, most rare, and most vulnerable fish in all of Southeast Asia. It’s likely that at least a hundred times more research is being done on salmon in the Pacific Northwest of the United States than on fish in the Mekong, but the consequences of losing the Mekong’s fish are a hundred times more significant in terms of biodiversity and potential impact to livelihoods
 

DavidFL

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Was the river higher or lower than last year's trip in 2013?

Everyone agreed the river was up. Significantly higher than last year.

And here's confirmation

http://www.mrcmekong.org/news-and-events/news/mekong-water-levels-higher-than-average-despite-local-concerns/

7 March 2014, Vientiane, Lao PDR— Water levels on much of the Mekong River have been higher than the long-term average since November last year with unusual fluctuations observed in last December and February, according to monitoring and forecasting data from the Mekong River Commission (MRC).

According to recent media reports, residents from some riverside communities in the border between Thailand and Lao PDR have raised concerns over unusual fluctuations in water levels along the Mekong River, including what they consider to be lower-than-normal levels for this time of the year.

The MRC’s data shows that water levels have been significantly above normal (or the long-term average) for most mainstream monitoring stations in Lao PDR, Thailand and Cambodia since November 2013 and in many cases above the earlier highest record for this time of the year.

For example, water levels in Chiang Saen district of Chiang Rai Province in northern Thailand have almost continuously been 1.5 to 2 metres above the long-term average. Further down the Mekong, for example at Vientiane, Lao PDR, one can still observe a water level of 1 to 1.5 metres above the average. In Kratie, Cambodia, the current water level is higher than what had consistently been observed during February and March in the past.

However, the MRC observed unusual fluctuations in water levels and flows. As reported on earlier a sudden peak in water flows in mid-December 2013 saw the water levels rise above the earlier recorded highest level for this time of the year. This is believed to be caused by the unusually high rainfall in southern China and northern Laos.

During the first two weeks of February 2014 the water level in Chiang Saen dropped rapidly by 1 metre but the dropped level was still far above the long term average. The water level then quickly returned to high levels and is currently much higher than ever recorded for this time of year.

The rapid changes in the beginning of this year suggest that the water level is influenced by human activities (as there was no associated rainfall). The unseasonably high flow and the rapid drop in water level at the upper Mekong may be determined by water releases of the cascade reservoirs on the Lancang for energy production and possibly navigation purposes. The MRC is inquiring with the Chinese authorities on this issue.

Local man-made activities, such as sand dredging, can change the sediment flow and morphology at certain stretches of the Mekong and can consequently cause unusually low water levels at respective areas, although the water volumes remain high.

During the dry season the MRC provides a weekly update on water levels observed in the previous week and water levels forecasted for the upcoming week at 22 water monitoring stations on the Mekong mainstream. The information is available on the MRC’s website: www.mrcmekong.org and its flood forecasting website http://ffw.mrcmekong.org.
 

DavidFL

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I used to think that the river upstream from Luang Prabang was pretty wild, but downstream it strikes me as being wilder with more rocks & rapids in the river.
In places it is also wider & seems less mountainous, with more crops being grown on the river banks, whereas this trip there seemed almost none upstream from Luang Prabang - & that was unusual too I thought.

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Lucky villagers still able to fish for their living.

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DavidFL

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Approaching the damn site

The river starts to narrow & get quite treacherous with lots of rocks

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Kilometres before the actual dam site there are roads, machinery & camps all along the river

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Then finally into the dam site

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but wait there is a barge mid-stream with cables tied to each bank mooring it & blocking the channel.

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you could hardly see the cables just above the water line, & it's almost an emergency panic turn around & a hove to on the bank.
Lots of shouting across the waters & eventually the barge is released & moves to one side.
Then we find our boat is aground on the muddy bed.
Dave Carrell comes to the rescue yet again.

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& we are free into the heart of the dam site.

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DavidFL

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So what's the score with the dam construction

The primary function of the project is to provide hydropower generation capability comprising seven turbine-generator units of 175 MW capacity or a total of 1,225 MW for export to Thailand, and one unit of 60 MW capacity for use in Lao PDR. The main facilities are the dam structure itself (820 m long, 32.6 m high, rated head of 18.3 m), the spillway for discharge of river flow greater than the powerhouse discharge capacity, sluices for bypass.
From 2010
Overall layout of Xayaburi dam project. The structure is 820 m long and 32.6 m high. The spillway facility comprises ten radial gates, 19 m wide and 21 m high. Gross reservoir volume is 1,300 m3 or 1.3 km3
From a 2010 report

Construction would commence with a six-month period for site preparation and building the access road.
The main contract period, for 7 years and 9 months, includes two main phases when the river is modified by cofferdams.
The first phase is scheduled for three years and will involve right-bank construction of the spillway, navigation lock and part of the intermediate block.
The river will remain in the original channel during this period and cofferdams will be used to isolate the work areas.
Fish migration, navigation, and other in-stream uses are in the left river channel.

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The second phase of the construction involves completion of the remainder of the intermediate block, the powerhouse, and the left bank fish passing facilities (see Figure 6). During this period, the reservoir will fill with water being discharged through the open spillway gates and over the sill of the spillway.

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The reservoir level will vary depending on the river flow. Navigation will be through the locks, which are designed for operation with the river levels during this period.
Upstream fish migration during the second construction stage appears to be restricted to the use of the navigation lock as the head difference across the spillway will be too large, while downstream migration is deigned to occur through the spillway.
The Fisheries Expert Group therefore recommended that fish-passage facilities are implemented in a phased approach with a nature-like fish pass constructed during the first phase of the dam construction to be operational in the second phase.

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During construction, water levels upstream and downstream from the dam will fluctuate with the natural flow of the river as there should be no re-regulation of the discharge other than that occurring due to the reservoir operating at low level with free spillway outflow.
Powerhouse civil works construction is planned for three years during the second phase of construction followed by completion of the electrical and mechanical works.

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Cofferdams will be used to isolate the powerhouse work during this period.
The first generating unit will be commissioned after 7 years and 3 months with the subsequent units entering service approximately at one-month intervals.

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Some other bits & pieces

The reservoir impounded behind the dam would be maintained at 275 m above sea level at all times of the year (with exceptions noted below).
This corresponds to the level that the river would reach in a 1:000 year flood (a flow of 37,100 m3/s).
The reservoir (or back water effect) would extend up the Mekong from the dam to Luang Prabang town, a distance of 100 km.
The water level in the Mekong mainstream downstream of the Xayaburi dam would vary seasonally depending on the river flow.
The downstream level would rise and fall with flow pattern changes between the dry and wet seasons.
The water level would typically vary up to 19 m between 236.0 masl in the dry season to about 255.7 masl in the flood season (excluding exceptional flood events such as a PMF).
The elevation of 236.0 masl is the lowest tail-water level for operating turbines, before the commissioning of Pak Lay, for a river flow of 1,000 m3/s.

Based on a backwater analysis, the review further concludes that the water levels are expected to rise up to a maximum of 200 km upstream of the Xayaburi dam, specifically at lower flows.
At higher flows, the effect is expected to be limited to around 100 km. The zone of influence expected, all within Lao territory, is further than stated in the Xayaburi Feasibility Study.

MEKONG FISH MIGRATION
The migratory biomass of the Mekong is one of the largest of any river in the world.
In the early wet season, when large pangasiid catfishes and large cyprinids are migrating and the migratory biomass in the upper migration zone is estimated to be 36,000 tonnes , there may be 10,000 kg of fish per hour
passing, if we assume the migration is evenly distributed over five months.
There is also likely to be pulses of higher biomass with seasonal and dial peaks14.

The middle and lower migration systems have much greater migratory biomass.
Fish-passage solutions developed for Xayaburi may not be transferable to these zones.
For example, between 200,000 and 260,000 kg of fish per hour is estimated to migrating upstream in the lower migration system (using the MRC estimate of 0.75-0.95 million tonnes migrating per year in the lower system [Barlow et al. 2008], spread over five months.
Info sourced from the Mekong River's Commission Prior Consultation Project Review Report 2010.

The Sayabouly / Xayaboury is going to be a monumental change to the Mekong river in Laos & the life of peoples on living on / by the river.
Let's hope for the best, because there aint no stopping the Mekong dams now.
 

DavidFL

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Lunch was served immediately after getting through the dam site

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and what a scrumptious meal it was.

We power on, pleasantly served Miss Kham

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the skippers hot, but hard working daughter

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The river opens out & settles down to "Mill pond quality" most of the way into Pak Lay

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Chill out & give the trip an awesome thumbs up.

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Pak Lay arrives.

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The boat skipper is happy & so are we.

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A big thanks to all the guys for coming & enjoying themselves admirably.

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This trip sailing through the Sayablouly / Xayaboury dam site has been one of the highlights of my 30+ years in Thailand - Laos.

I feel the need for another GTR Mekong Boat trip...