The 1st time I rode in Thailand, I followed a gentleman I accidentally met in Daytona Beach Bike Week 2002 whom was kind enough to let me tagged along this past February 2003, for 2 weeks. I didn't keep any notes on routes, places we ate, drank or slept. I never figured I would be back here again.
Laid off in USA & before I return to full-time employment, I had to come back to Thailand for a month. Affordable for my limited budget & the smiling Thai faces, unlike the glooming Americans on anti-depressants, not wanting to travel out of the USA or even riding out of their own city. I felt safe last time, nor did I need a companion this time around. Riding solo, I have to admit I had to do a lot of research since I didn't take notes previous. I didn't think if was necessary to buy a mobile either. David Unkovich's GT Rider web page & message board is very informative if you take the time to read & take notes.
I rented a Yamaha TTR 250 in Feb. 2003 from Joe & Tom's Goodwill Motorcycle shop in CM. I rented from them again, mainly because they're reliable & would come rescue me if I ever had major mechanical problems I couldn't fix & both adoreable men. I passed on the Yamaha & took the Honda 250. My male friend in US whom never been out of the country, came over for a few days & took the Yamaha he wanted to do some dirt bike riding. I admit, I straight street rider only. Although in Thailand, I would never rent a street bike.
Each morning in CM we ate at Bier Stube for breakfast, best omelets. Mainly drank at Rudy's Sax bar. After leaving on bike runs & finding your way back to camp isn't always easy. I always followed the moat until I found Thapae Gate. I knew I was close to bed. Quite funny, Joe said every one has a hard time finding their place. I always found Joe's place when riding trying to find my lodging. If I found Joe's place, I was only a street over & very close.
1st night we stayed at Sarah's GH (350bt). I wasn't happy, a source told us to stay at Veerachai Court (400bt), nice enough for me. I'll be staying here each time I make a pit stop in CM. We ate dinner at John's bar/restaurant (south a couple blocks from Rudy's Sax bar.) Met a sweet little 8yr old selling flowers named "Aye". She spoke English, Burma & Thai. I spent a 100bt & used the roses to do her hair & her friends. All the farangs telling me their beggars, well yaw & I know that, but what is a 100bt to make a few poor girls happy for the night. I told her to be here tomorrow night so I can take her to a show (Simon's Dream) & dinner w/my Thai girlfriends (whom works at PP Air Travel @ Airport/Thapae Rd. - Great Service!)
The following night "Aye" showed up on time waiting there in her nicest outfit with her sister & brother also. I laughed. My girlfriends said that Simon's Dream let the kids in free cas' they never met a farang bringing in uncleaned kids to the show. Something they will never see again, tis true. After the show we all ate at The Riverside. No matter how smart "Aye" is, my Thai friends thought same but told me she can't read. Whatever the fish my friends ordered was excellent. The little ones ate like it was going to be their last meal. I don't doubt it either. I returned them to John's restaurant, their Burma mother waiting to put the kids to work to sell flowers. She gave me 2 photos of her kids & had "Aye" tell me thank me for giving her children they never had before. Nice lady, I will miss them.
1st riding day we rode up to Doi Suthep. Easily done in half a day. This is a must to do ride for any visitor. You'll see a rail block crossing you'll think you have reached the end. Either you can ride around it (no security), go back the same way you came in or turn right & take the dirt roads. I remember doing this route in Feb. & I hate dirt roads but I wanted to see if I could do it this time around w/o falling down, I succeeded! At times, you'll seem like you are lost when the dirt roads come to a Y. Take your chances, you never know which one is right. We finally came out to Huai Tung Tao Reservoir. Aww, back to pavement. Neck & shoulder muscles are finally lightening up.
2nd day we rode around not really having a destination. We went to Tard Mork Falls (on David's map) real nice & quite romantic place. We rode on to Mae Sa Falls. Local picnic place it seems for Thais on a Sunday. Later we ate at Meow's place (Rim Viang Pub) where she sings. Beautiful voice she has. I wish I could have remembered from before but pass out from being jet legged. Wasn't a very pleasant sight that night where she sings!!
3rd day we took off to Pai. Took Routes 107 No. Turned left in Mae Rim towards Nong Pia Man a back road to 1095 & also to get away from fumes. On the way, we stopped at a place for soup only choice. What kind of noodle or rice do you want in it? After my friend took a few chews & swallows, I said; "do you like the white meatballs?" He said they're tasteless but the soup was excellent. I told him he was eating boar balls. He lost his appetite fast!
When we arrived in Pai, we stayed at Rim Pai Cottages, in Bungalow #8. My friend thought he was Alice in Wonderland. It is such a delightful place on the river. Ate at Pai Corner (not sure, but wasn't on the corner). Drank at The Golden Triangle Bar. They seated up on the bed as you walked in to the left. Have to admit it was very relaxing drinking alcoholic coffee drinks whilst lying down. I could tell they wanted to close up @ 11pm, so we went outside to finish up our drink. I met this 32yr old Thai cutie outside by the fire named Skai. He's opening up a new pub in Pai soon called "Popular." He has a great sense of humor along with speaking English.
Next morning before leaving, I went to get my 1st Thai massage at "Dam Thai" on the river road. Her name is Meow. I let her beat me up. She kept saying "ok?" I looked & said "ok." Whilst she was doing my right foot it cramped up & I showed her my toes twisting. (she didn't speak English). She saw what I meant & started slapping my foot around w/her hand. It worked!
4th day a short ride to Soppong so friend can go dirt bike riding. We stayed at Little Eden GH. A very unique place. I love everything they had to offer besides the hard mattress. I slept on the beautiful patio on the river that night. We ate dinner & breakfast there. Dirt roads we took after checking in was a road went to Ban Tham (on David's map). Friend went on so I didn't have to collect his dust in my face. I sat & drank water whilst the village people sat & stared at me. I just kept smiling trying to make conversation, but they kept laughing. Thinking he's far enough ahead of me, I hopped on my bike & the women pointed down the road he went & shook her head "no" at me. That told me, it isn't going to be very nice rode. I came to a steep downward hill. I had to stop and analyze how in the hell am I going to do this without falling down. If I hit just one rut, I'm done in. My holiday is just beginning & not wanting it to end so soon. In a deep trance, this Thai guy comes up next to me on a moped w/no tread on his tires & said; "chok dee ka" with a gleaming smile. Yeah right, I said. I watched him & thought, I can't be that much of a whoosie! I went no faster than 10k but I balanced very good shaking on the way down, I was in desperate need for a pill to chill.
Met up with friend in Ya Pa Nae. I told him; I need a break. He went on to Huai Hang. Whilst I was waiting all these Thai dirt biker come flying by me. They stopped to see if I was ok. I said yes & said told them this crapped scares the hell out of me. They laughed. Any hoot, they said there is much more dirt road past Saen Khum Lue on David's map. Very good dirt roads on map, but you'll find many more if you searched. Didn't matter to me. I had no intentions looking. (These Thai guys are very serious Dirt Bike Riders. Some live in Ban Tham, others in Huai Hang if you want to look them up. Fun guys! For the ones who love dirt, they said to follow David's route South of Mae Hong Son to Doi Pui to Huai Bong onto Mae Ruam down to Mae Hoi) Any way, my friend & I rode on to Mae Lana onto Route 1226. Map looks paved, but I think not!!! When we arrived back to Little Eden. I went straight to the bar for a Singha!!!!
Next morning, friend had issues to take care of back in the states. He was unsure returning to CM by himself but hey you have to learn sometime. I gave him my map & we said our good-byes.
I started heading down to Mae Hong Son & stopped at a rocking pit stop area for a pee break. Sure enough the Thai Tourist Police stops. Two girls get out of the SUV & asked if I was ok + lots of questions about me being alone on big bike, do I feel safe, blah, blah. I told them how my friend was on his way back to CM that he's never been in Thai before. They put out a distressed call to the other Tourist Police if they see lost American on Yamaha help him out. We all laughed, they loved the fact I left a man. They shared their lunch with me, we talked, laughed some more until we were in tears. They spoke English good. Later I became good friends with Yae & Poom.
Now on my own to Mae Hong Son & beyond for the next 3 weeks, let the SANUK ka begin.....[
]
P.S. (Thanks to David & Bob for helping my friend in CM & to the airport when he returned.)
Laid off in USA & before I return to full-time employment, I had to come back to Thailand for a month. Affordable for my limited budget & the smiling Thai faces, unlike the glooming Americans on anti-depressants, not wanting to travel out of the USA or even riding out of their own city. I felt safe last time, nor did I need a companion this time around. Riding solo, I have to admit I had to do a lot of research since I didn't take notes previous. I didn't think if was necessary to buy a mobile either. David Unkovich's GT Rider web page & message board is very informative if you take the time to read & take notes.
I rented a Yamaha TTR 250 in Feb. 2003 from Joe & Tom's Goodwill Motorcycle shop in CM. I rented from them again, mainly because they're reliable & would come rescue me if I ever had major mechanical problems I couldn't fix & both adoreable men. I passed on the Yamaha & took the Honda 250. My male friend in US whom never been out of the country, came over for a few days & took the Yamaha he wanted to do some dirt bike riding. I admit, I straight street rider only. Although in Thailand, I would never rent a street bike.
Each morning in CM we ate at Bier Stube for breakfast, best omelets. Mainly drank at Rudy's Sax bar. After leaving on bike runs & finding your way back to camp isn't always easy. I always followed the moat until I found Thapae Gate. I knew I was close to bed. Quite funny, Joe said every one has a hard time finding their place. I always found Joe's place when riding trying to find my lodging. If I found Joe's place, I was only a street over & very close.
1st night we stayed at Sarah's GH (350bt). I wasn't happy, a source told us to stay at Veerachai Court (400bt), nice enough for me. I'll be staying here each time I make a pit stop in CM. We ate dinner at John's bar/restaurant (south a couple blocks from Rudy's Sax bar.) Met a sweet little 8yr old selling flowers named "Aye". She spoke English, Burma & Thai. I spent a 100bt & used the roses to do her hair & her friends. All the farangs telling me their beggars, well yaw & I know that, but what is a 100bt to make a few poor girls happy for the night. I told her to be here tomorrow night so I can take her to a show (Simon's Dream) & dinner w/my Thai girlfriends (whom works at PP Air Travel @ Airport/Thapae Rd. - Great Service!)
The following night "Aye" showed up on time waiting there in her nicest outfit with her sister & brother also. I laughed. My girlfriends said that Simon's Dream let the kids in free cas' they never met a farang bringing in uncleaned kids to the show. Something they will never see again, tis true. After the show we all ate at The Riverside. No matter how smart "Aye" is, my Thai friends thought same but told me she can't read. Whatever the fish my friends ordered was excellent. The little ones ate like it was going to be their last meal. I don't doubt it either. I returned them to John's restaurant, their Burma mother waiting to put the kids to work to sell flowers. She gave me 2 photos of her kids & had "Aye" tell me thank me for giving her children they never had before. Nice lady, I will miss them.
1st riding day we rode up to Doi Suthep. Easily done in half a day. This is a must to do ride for any visitor. You'll see a rail block crossing you'll think you have reached the end. Either you can ride around it (no security), go back the same way you came in or turn right & take the dirt roads. I remember doing this route in Feb. & I hate dirt roads but I wanted to see if I could do it this time around w/o falling down, I succeeded! At times, you'll seem like you are lost when the dirt roads come to a Y. Take your chances, you never know which one is right. We finally came out to Huai Tung Tao Reservoir. Aww, back to pavement. Neck & shoulder muscles are finally lightening up.
2nd day we rode around not really having a destination. We went to Tard Mork Falls (on David's map) real nice & quite romantic place. We rode on to Mae Sa Falls. Local picnic place it seems for Thais on a Sunday. Later we ate at Meow's place (Rim Viang Pub) where she sings. Beautiful voice she has. I wish I could have remembered from before but pass out from being jet legged. Wasn't a very pleasant sight that night where she sings!!
3rd day we took off to Pai. Took Routes 107 No. Turned left in Mae Rim towards Nong Pia Man a back road to 1095 & also to get away from fumes. On the way, we stopped at a place for soup only choice. What kind of noodle or rice do you want in it? After my friend took a few chews & swallows, I said; "do you like the white meatballs?" He said they're tasteless but the soup was excellent. I told him he was eating boar balls. He lost his appetite fast!
When we arrived in Pai, we stayed at Rim Pai Cottages, in Bungalow #8. My friend thought he was Alice in Wonderland. It is such a delightful place on the river. Ate at Pai Corner (not sure, but wasn't on the corner). Drank at The Golden Triangle Bar. They seated up on the bed as you walked in to the left. Have to admit it was very relaxing drinking alcoholic coffee drinks whilst lying down. I could tell they wanted to close up @ 11pm, so we went outside to finish up our drink. I met this 32yr old Thai cutie outside by the fire named Skai. He's opening up a new pub in Pai soon called "Popular." He has a great sense of humor along with speaking English.
Next morning before leaving, I went to get my 1st Thai massage at "Dam Thai" on the river road. Her name is Meow. I let her beat me up. She kept saying "ok?" I looked & said "ok." Whilst she was doing my right foot it cramped up & I showed her my toes twisting. (she didn't speak English). She saw what I meant & started slapping my foot around w/her hand. It worked!
4th day a short ride to Soppong so friend can go dirt bike riding. We stayed at Little Eden GH. A very unique place. I love everything they had to offer besides the hard mattress. I slept on the beautiful patio on the river that night. We ate dinner & breakfast there. Dirt roads we took after checking in was a road went to Ban Tham (on David's map). Friend went on so I didn't have to collect his dust in my face. I sat & drank water whilst the village people sat & stared at me. I just kept smiling trying to make conversation, but they kept laughing. Thinking he's far enough ahead of me, I hopped on my bike & the women pointed down the road he went & shook her head "no" at me. That told me, it isn't going to be very nice rode. I came to a steep downward hill. I had to stop and analyze how in the hell am I going to do this without falling down. If I hit just one rut, I'm done in. My holiday is just beginning & not wanting it to end so soon. In a deep trance, this Thai guy comes up next to me on a moped w/no tread on his tires & said; "chok dee ka" with a gleaming smile. Yeah right, I said. I watched him & thought, I can't be that much of a whoosie! I went no faster than 10k but I balanced very good shaking on the way down, I was in desperate need for a pill to chill.
Met up with friend in Ya Pa Nae. I told him; I need a break. He went on to Huai Hang. Whilst I was waiting all these Thai dirt biker come flying by me. They stopped to see if I was ok. I said yes & said told them this crapped scares the hell out of me. They laughed. Any hoot, they said there is much more dirt road past Saen Khum Lue on David's map. Very good dirt roads on map, but you'll find many more if you searched. Didn't matter to me. I had no intentions looking. (These Thai guys are very serious Dirt Bike Riders. Some live in Ban Tham, others in Huai Hang if you want to look them up. Fun guys! For the ones who love dirt, they said to follow David's route South of Mae Hong Son to Doi Pui to Huai Bong onto Mae Ruam down to Mae Hoi) Any way, my friend & I rode on to Mae Lana onto Route 1226. Map looks paved, but I think not!!! When we arrived back to Little Eden. I went straight to the bar for a Singha!!!!
Next morning, friend had issues to take care of back in the states. He was unsure returning to CM by himself but hey you have to learn sometime. I gave him my map & we said our good-byes.
I started heading down to Mae Hong Son & stopped at a rocking pit stop area for a pee break. Sure enough the Thai Tourist Police stops. Two girls get out of the SUV & asked if I was ok + lots of questions about me being alone on big bike, do I feel safe, blah, blah. I told them how my friend was on his way back to CM that he's never been in Thai before. They put out a distressed call to the other Tourist Police if they see lost American on Yamaha help him out. We all laughed, they loved the fact I left a man. They shared their lunch with me, we talked, laughed some more until we were in tears. They spoke English good. Later I became good friends with Yae & Poom.
Now on my own to Mae Hong Son & beyond for the next 3 weeks, let the SANUK ka begin.....[
]P.S. (Thanks to David & Bob for helping my friend in CM & to the airport when he returned.)
