3 nights 4 days Chiang Khong - Phrae - Nan - Phrae - Return

A failed masterplan to conquer Nan & Phrae in the heat.

Day 1 Chiang Khong - Chiang Rai - Phayao - Ngao - Phrae
355 kms.
Depart Chiang Khong @ 1.45PM in the heat of the day.
Arrive Phrae @ 8.15PM.


A bit of leisurely ride down, with a quick stop in Chiang Rai first @ Ban Chang for an oil & filter change on the Vstrom.

5,500 kms since the last change & I thought maybe it's a good idea for some fresh oil for this ride in the heat.



15-50 Motul fully synthetic is my current favourite, although I'd rather be using Shell Ultra 15-50 fully synthetic, but that involves running around in Chiang Rai city to find some in the heat, so I wimp out & use Motul. It also pleases Ban Chang more because he is making a sale. He did however ask why no Shell this time, as I much prefer that. It just feels better in the bike to me!

Its damn hot on the highway but keeping a good pace up it's only a 2 hrs riding time Chiang Rai - Ngao for 146 kms.



The traffic lights around Phan & Phayao are a curse in the heat & really slow you down.
Sadly, in Phan I wimp out for a lengthy PTT Amazon stop in the aircon = 30 minutes.
Its 5pm when I set off on the road again, just in time for all the Phayao red lights on the super.
Arrival time in Ngao city is a pleasant 6.30PM
40 minutes In Ngao city were enough to check out some venues for a GTR dinner.

A thorough google maps search had turned up a few places, but you never quite know how real they are unless you check em out yourself.
And I did, and I'm comfortable with what we have.

The hotel.


A bar beer for happy hour


And a pub 'n restaurant with live music.




The Apirom Pub is located on the Ngao River, next to the town's famous bridge.




It's a cool little spot & you can't miss it by the bridge.




@ 7Pm it was time to hit R103 in the dark & test out the new spotlight set up on the Vstrom.


R103 is a dead straight 4-lane dual carriageway for 21 kms & then there's a fantastic twisting 10kms road through the mountains to cross over into Song district of Phrae province.




Phrae arrival time was 8pm & I was feeling a bit weary, so looking forward to checking into my fave hotel, the Viva Resort & crashing out in the cool aircon for a bit. Except it was full. Strange I thought. But never mind, plenty of choice in Phrae city. # 2 choice close by was the Rittiboon Vintage. And it was full too!! Grrh WTH I thought. This could make you irritable when you're hot & weary & hungry & thirsty. Fortunately, # 3 choice the Amornrak was a winner, especially at 550 baht.




10.15PM rested & refreshed it was time to hit the fabulous Beach Bar in Phrae city.
The first time you go to the Beach Bar it always is a bit stunning, especially if you are unaware of the pool set up.




The atmosphere around the pool is always fabulous, the locals are friendly & the live music rocks, if you like a bit of noise.












I can also recommend the food - the Somtam. The best I have ever had, & I'm not normally a somtam diner, but....the Beach's somtam really did hit the spot!


The service too is always attentive.


After a hot ride in the heat of the day, the Beach Bar was a just reward for my efforts.

I left at closing, well pleased and satiated.

To be continued.

Day 2 Phrae - Wiang Sa - Nan
Day 3 Nan - Santisuk - Mae Charim - Nam Muap - Wiang Sai - Phrae
Day 4 Phrae - Song - Sa Iab - Chiang Kham - Chiang Khong.

Day 2 Phrae - Wiang Sa - Nan.
199 kms.
10.45am departure Phrae.
3.00 pm Nan arrival

A typical slow start to the day with a lengthy brekky at the Gingerbread.
The Gingerbread is a unique ghouse / cafe / art gallery downtown central Phrae, right opposite the town police station.


You always get a good breakfast, great coffee & excellent info from this well-respected family.

A GTR brekky


Happy staff / owner with great info on Phrae's attractions.




A couple of tips I have been given over the years.
1. Phrae chocolate and the Wang Chin Cocoa Farm.



2. The Shan Rebellion hooch



A special Phrae hooch "celebrating" the Shan rebellion of 1902, when the Shan rebelled against their rulers from Bangkok, after one too many tax increases. They attacked the officials in Phrae & killed many - police at the station straight across the street from the Gingerbread. The rebellion was eventually put down but the "spirit of the Shan rebellion" lives on in Phrae.

"a band of Shan bandits attacked Phrae on July 25 1902. They destroyed the police station and the post office, cutting the telegraph connection with the outside world. Joined by several hundred Shan residents of Phrae, they destroyed the residence of the Siamese commissioner, eventually capturing him and executing him along with twenty other Siamese officials."

" July 25th, 1902, better armed and with excellent transportation, some 150 Shans attacked the town of Phrae, killed all the police, beheaded the Governor and opened the gates of the prison. After robbing a safe at the courthouse, the courage of the raiders was further boosted by a short break at the local distillery (reported Chiangmai archivist and author Roy Hudson in his 1978 account in the 'Bangkok Post'"

The Capt Hans Jensen Memorial

Spotted a few months ago on R1 south of Phayao a sign for the Captain Hans Jensen Shrine. I thought this was a bit unusual -a shrine to a farang in Thailand? A quick google search turned these up http://www.chiangmaitouristguide.com/06 ... ture2.html Another colourful story is that of...

www.gt-rider.com

Enjoying the conversation at the GIngerbread meant it was a late 10.45Am departure from Phrae.
The heat was already on the road entering Nan province.





R101 is a fabulous winding road through the hills between Rong Khwang & Wiang Sa.
The road signs keep you guessing.


Wiang Sa was the first pit stop for the day & time to catch up to friends at the Ban Chang Coffee shop & art Gallery.





They have excellent croissants & a GTR favourite is a lemon croissant.

Give it a go if you're passing through.

From Wiang Sa the masterplan was scheduled to kick in.
Ride to Na Noi & then ride east on R1083 to hook up with R1243, follow it North to Mae Charim & then pick up R1168 to head west back into Nan.

Stopped at the Wing Sa 7-11 to top up on water & electrolyte I was stunned to note the "parked temperature" on the Vstrom was 48!



2 electrolyte sachets from 7-11.


2.5 litres of water + electrolyte.


Just fits in the GTR leather handlebar pouch, to be sucked as I go.


R1026 south from Wiang Sa is one of the most popular roads in the North, winding through the rolling hills towards the Sirikit Dam.
26 kms south from Wiang Sa I noticed a sudden increase in the number of oncoming cars, on what had been a quiet road earlier.
Strange I thought. Then 6 kms before Na Noi a long line of traffic banked up on the road & voila, the problem - a jackknifed trailer truck, carrying concrete power line poles was blocking the road.



After 40 minutes waiting in the heat & a guessed another minimum 40 minutes to wait, whilst they unloaded the beams & moved the truck the old GTR fellah gave up & headed straight for Nan & a nice aircon room.


Let's write day 2 off!

An enjoyable night in Nan followed, starting with the MotoGP sprint race @ Oddvar's house, then a Gin restaurant dinner.
Many thanks Oddvar for hooking up & sharing both the MotoGP sprint race & dinner with me.





Dinner done, Oddvar heads off home to kick back in his cool aircon.
The old GTR fellah was left alone to explore some Nan night life.
And the top flavour of the night was the Chalerm Thai, a large open air pub & restaurant with live music & the footy on TV.







I'd survived another day in the heat & would try again tomorrow.

Day 3 Nan - Santisuk - Mae Charim - Nam Muap - Wiang Sai - Phrae
244 kms
Nan Departure 10.50AM
Phrae Arrival 4.50PM

Back to the original masterplan to re GPS R1243.
This time in reverse after a failed attempt to start via Na Noi.
R1169 - Santisuk - R1225 - Mae Charim - Na Sia R1234 - Nam Muap - R1162 - Wiang Sa - R101 - Phrae.
A late start after a superb brekky & long chat with Oddvar & the Hot Bread ladies.

R1169 out of Nan is a superb ride through rolling hills that everyone should do, like most of the 5-star roads in Nan. 55


At Santisuk it's a right onto 1225


The heat was on during this section, tighter twisting roads on undulating hills.
By the time I got to Mae Charim, it was time for a lengthy break at the town 7-11 to cool down.
Fortunately for me it was one of those new 7-11s with indoor seating to sit inside & watch the world go by outside.
I was enjoying the cool comfort for 20 minutes when the friendly town policeman came in to ask if that was my bike parked outside.
Yes, was the answer.
Well hurry up & turn off your ignition, all your lights are still on!
Oops. What a saviour he was!
No bump starting a bike with lithium battery if it has shut down.

Phew. Top up the hydration pack & douse myself with 1.5 litres of cold water to prepare for the next stage.
Riding at 60-80kph on these tight winding roads in the heat wears you out, or it was wearing out the old GTR fellah & he was cooking.

R1243 comes up at Na Sia then continues way down to Bo Bia
But I was only interested in R1243 south to Sali
and then pick up R1083 west across to Kaeng Luang & Na Noi.

Na Sia to Nam Muap on R1243 is 38 kms


However, by the time I got Nam Muap I thought I'm getting weary & it's too hot for chugging along on these roads at a maximum 80kph, lets bail out & save it for another cooler day & ride. Give up for this trip. Let's head back to Phrae for some food & entertainment.

Nam Muap to Wiang Sa it was then. 26 kms.


I was done & happy to be on the main highway with a bit of speed to cool down.
Phrae beckoned & there were a couple of places to check out, plus I needed to get a sticker for the bike!

The Amornrak 2 was again the place of stay in Phrae @ 550 baht was top value.


Get a ground floor room & your bike is parked right outside your window.


With an earlier arival in Phrae this time there was time for a meal at Tbone Steak.
The Tbone Steak is a sweet little aircon place in Phrae, conveniently located near the famous Beach Bar.
We had a ripper GTR dinner here once upon a time that was great fun.

Despite covid the TBone is still going & a nice place for a cheap, quiet, meal in the aircon.

The boss lady is a great gal & always enjoys a chat with the old GTR fellah.

A couple of nights I'd hit the Beach Bar & this time round it was time for some new establishments.
Burn & The Private Zone were the winners.

Burn




The Private Zone is inside Burn, & a delightful aircon bar with music & the footy.





More info here